When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I used Archoil 9100(?) for a few years, eventually, I had to replace one injector.
We have had a lot of people come here after having a non-competent shop burn through their wallet throwing parts at things they didn't understand. Choose your shop carefully.
Awesome. I'll give Archoil a try since I'm due for an oil change here soon. I can't wait to be done with school and have more time to wrench and do things on my own.
Couple of options-
Get a scan tool like the Forscan app, and a obd adapter to connect to.
Forscan could find misfires, perhaps point to the bad injector or injectors. Then decide if you only want to replace the injectors where misfires occur.
Or, go to a Ford dealer and have them scan it. We had that done prior to us getting better diagnostic tools.
Costs $169 and we got a print out of everything they checked, misfires, relative compressions, etc. Gave a clean bill of health except for a weak injector that needed replacing. Given the 200k miles they recommended doing all on that side.
We did the bad one ourself. Ran great afterwards. But eventually replaced the remainder when other misfires starting occurring. Dealer was correct.
But only uses Ford remans from a Ford dealer.
What oil are you using? I found with mine changing from Motorcraft 15w-40 or 10w-30 to full synthetic 5w-40 made a HUGE difference in how my truck started and runs. My truck seems to prefer Valvoline Extreme Blue, but lately I’ve found Shell Rotella T6 significantly cheaper at Walmart. I’ve also used Mobile 1 TDT and liked it.
I forget what the guy I bought it from put in it but the mechanic I had look it over said it wasn't the greatest stuff. Switching to Motorcraft full synthetic 5w-40 here soon.
They guy also said he didn't want to replace just one because then the new injector would have more power than the others and that could potentially blow a head gasket. Any thoughts on just replacing the one bad one vs. all new?
LOL, that is not a good reason to replace all of the injectors. The bulk of the labor is getting to the injectors so it doesn't hurt to replace all of them but you aren't going to blow a head gasket by only replacing one bad injector.
Last I ran it, Forscan does not do an uncompensated cylinder balance test. The only way to run that is with IDS or a Snap On scanner will run it. Forscan and AE will not run an uncompensated cylinder balance test on a 6.0.
It’s been awhile since I looked at them. I don’t recall misfires always setting a code, but there was a parameter that could be displayed by cylinder that counted misfires.
After one trip, I was surprised to see it showed a few misfires, because to me it ran smoothly the whole time.
Helped to track if the problem was getting worse.
Last I ran it, Forscan does not do an uncompensated cylinder balance test. The only way to run that is with IDS or a Snap On scanner will run it. Forscan and AE will not run an uncompensated cylinder balance test on a 6.0.
Correct. NAPA in one of their Autotech training programs did show a way to check the balance by writing down a parameter after turning one injector off after another. Can't find it.....
Originally Posted by xcrsp440
It’s been awhile since I looked at them. I don’t recall misfires always setting a code, but there was a parameter that could be displayed by cylinder that counted misfires.
After one trip, I was surprised to see it showed a few misfires, because to me it ran smoothly the whole time.
Helped to track if the problem was getting worse.
I wish AE would fix that but I e-mailed them a few years ago about the cylinder balance and the feeling I got was that they have no intention of digging into it and being able to run an uncompensated balance test.
I went out and grabbed a screenshot of a cold start. The FICM took about 30 seconds to climb to 13V, ICP jumped up right away. Still white smoke coming out but didn't know if anyone saw anything of interest I don't know about.
Also noticed a Turbocharge code P0299-60 what is that? Thanks for all the help
The supply voltage to the FICM took about 30 seconds to build, not the FICM. These is typical of the 110a alternator, which means you need to keep on top of the batteries and exchange them as the start to get weak. Due to your funds situation, I would get an overdrive pulley for the alternator, which you can do for under $15. As you have more funds you can upsize the alternator to better protect the FICM. However, IMO its the batteries that put the FICM at the most risk, too much attention paid to the alternators.
