When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Brian...depends on year of your truck I think but look at video it shows the part number
got you. I have a 2000. Looking online I May have mistakenly thought you could just drop one of the new caster bushings in versus getting one of those weld on adjustment brackets. Pardon me as I am naïve to that sort of thing.
Your right Brian...some trucks have bushings that come in different degrees that are drop ins and some trucks will need the welded adjuster. I am just not sure which your truck would need. A good alignment shop can help you with a phone call. You will know if they know what they are talking about because they will know and have the part number. I hope that helps.
It sounds like you are riding on the worn bearing grooves of a bad axle ujoints. Ever work a worn ujoint back and forth in your hands and feel the sticky spots once a groove is formed? Even in 2wd you are fighting a bad ujoint every time you steer the truck. Have one with a bind or a sticky spot in it and it will cause you to work the wheel back and forth to keep it staight. Have been there myself. Replaced everything with no luck, last new part was ujoints and my problem vanished.
Front tires do not call for 70 psi, on my truck anyways. I believe it is 55 psi, and I believe this might be your problem and why the front end of your truck is all over the place. No amount of tire alignment will compensate for an over inflated tire.
I have tried greater than 55 for hypermiling, and it wanders. Correct pressure, much better.
For my truck, 56-57 cold is the sweet spot for wander and tire wear across the tread (stock size and type tires).
You might want to consider checking the sticker on your door and backing down some front end tire pressure and give it a try before getting another alignment.
Mine take 110 psi. Just depends on what size/rating tires you have. Soft tires might mask the problem but not fix what's loose.
Sniper, the OP, stated that he is running Cooper AT3 in stock tire size on an 00 F250 PSD and the fronts were aired up to 70 psi.
He said that it was like chasing a snake or that it was wandering like following grooves in the road.
The way he described it, it sounds like it could be what we call "tramlining".
Tramlining is caused by either alignment settings or running higher tire pressures than necessary, OR both.
Since his truck is similar to mine and running AT3s in stock tire size, he just finished alot of front end work and he said his alignment was dead on, I just thought that he might try airing the front end down from 70 psi to the recommended 55 psi and give it a try.
Wouldn't cost anything to give it a try.
BTW-I agree that ideally a little more caster would be nice to have.
Caster would certainly help. Bicycle guys know this, a steep rake is good for sporty tight handling, but a longer rake (more caster) slows the turning effect and promotes relaxed road behaviour.
Sniper, the OP, stated that he is running Cooper AT3 in stock tire size on an 00 F250 PSD and the fronts were aired up to 70 psi.
He said that it was like chasing a snake or that it was wandering like following grooves in the road.
The way he described it, it sounds like it could be what we call "tramlining".
Tramlining is caused by either alignment settings or running higher tire pressures than necessary, OR both.
Since his truck is similar to mine and running AT3s in stock tire size, he just finished alot of front end work and he said his alignment was dead on, I just thought that he might try airing the front end down from 70 psi to the recommended 55 psi and give it a try.
Wouldn't cost anything to give it a try.
BTW-I agree that ideally a little more caster would be nice to have.
No offense intended. As you point out it wouldn't cost anything to try. The trucks I've worked on are different than either of yours so my experience is different. Uneven tire wear can cause similar issues. Maybe try swapping tires front to rear?
Front tires do not call for 70 psi, on my truck anyways. I believe it is 55 psi, and I believe this might be your problem and why the front end of your truck is all over the place. No amount of tire alignment will compensate for an over inflated tire.
I have tried greater than 55 for hypermiling, and it wanders. Correct pressure, much better.
For my truck, 56-57 cold is the sweet spot for wander and tire wear across the tread (stock size and type tires).
You might want to consider checking the sticker on your door and backing down some front end tire pressure and give it a try before getting another alignment.
Door says 60 Front, 70 Rear... will give that a try!
It sounds like you are riding on the worn bearing grooves of a bad axle ujoints. Ever work a worn ujoint back and forth in your hands and feel the sticky spots once a groove is formed? Even in 2wd you are fighting a bad ujoint every time you steer the truck. Have one with a bind or a sticky spot in it and it will cause you to work the wheel back and forth to keep it staight. Have been there myself. Replaced everything with no luck, last new part was ujoints and my problem vanished.
u-joints are 5 months old.... thought the same thing. They were worn and needed replaced.
No offense intended. As you point out it wouldn't cost anything to try. The trucks I've worked on are different than either of yours so my experience is different. Uneven tire wear can cause similar issues. Maybe try swapping tires front to rear?
Once I take a drive after dropping the tire pressure,, this will be my next stop. I’m even going to replace the bushings in the torsion bar,, just as a precaution. Hell, at this point I’m considering ordering the Moog Caster Bushings.
Who did the alignment? These trucks need 1/8-1/4” of toe-in.
I’ve had trucks that were a challenge to get to drive straight. Adding 5* caster bushings fixes them.
On this note: on a 4x4, what is the position of the sleeve you usually set for max castor out of the stock sleeves? I can't seem to find an alignment shop in Denver that thinks castor can be adjusted in these trucks.
IIRC the bushing holds the upper ball joint in position and is eccentric, so the axis of the upper ball joint can be changed by rotating the bushing. Rotating the bushing so the ball joint axis goes further to the rear will dial in more caster, making the steering less aggressive and less prone to wander. Maybe not a full 5* but it could help.
I was very careful not to change that when doing my ball joints, but in hindsight maybe cranking it back a few degrees might be good.