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Jdeshler, I know it is not a final product etc. but I dig the red, white, blue. Kwe 45919, I agree with you but I feel maybe it is not a blanket statement. Some folks have a higher skill set than others, along with tools, and time. To me, there is a big difference in doing a restoration vs. function too. I 100% think anything should be mechanically sound and look acceptable, hack jobs are pathetic but that does not 100% mean it has to be as the factory did it. Myself, I need a good looking functional bed and do not have the time, tools, nor can I justify the expense to pay for the outlined level of changing a bed over( I bet 428 has a $1,000 of labor in that if he paid a shop to do it). If that is what it takes, I guess I will be behind schedule and be learning a bit, been done before.....I also have the option of cutting the floor out and patching it along with where the PO pulled all the tie downs at. More than one way to skin a cat and before doing all the layout required, I feel that "could" be a option. 428 do you have a pic of both beds side by side, the underside? You have a lot of pics, but they kind of flow together.
Here is a YouTube video done by Stacy David (Gearz) showing truck bed replacement using new repro parts sourced from LMC (sponsor of the show). The presentation may have taken a few short cuts to make it look easier to do than it would actually be for most of us but, still, it is an option to be aware of.
I saw that episode...actually surprised me, our old Fords, especially Highboys, do not get much "air" time. Odd they do not list different parts for the different trucks, you would think they would but maybe they covered it via the "call" to order? Normally LMC is good about breaking out different styles...the plot thickens.
@Dustin Daniel I agree on you with that one, my objective was to get it finished so I could throw some firewood and kids in it! The op's definitely got some time in but these hiboy bed fitting threads have been a sensitive topic through the years here All my finishing work has been focused on my tilt bronco over the last year or so, so its tomatoes tomatoes.. . I can appreciate the OP's work
Anywho over
Put the bed back on and it fit! All the new holes lined up. Finished welding the old bed bolt holes shut along with the front brace and rear braces. All that is left is two cross members to finish welding up. Can’t wait to be done with this part of the project. I think this is exactly what I said about the 78-79 4WD steering box modification/ upgrade. Next will be the relocation of the fuel tank and re doing the spring bushings and transfer case mounts. Then maybe I can get the frame and underside of the bed coated with KBS. Not promising in that order. This project is fluid, always changing!
Got the bed coated with two coats of KBS. I am only getting half the square feet they claim you get out of a quart. It took a quart each coat. Have to order more before I start frame now. Glad I didn’t start on the bed and the better half start on the frame like my plan was.
First coat Second coat
i have a can of Por-15 I am going to do the side with. See if there is a difference in application.
Have made a little progress. Got the frame stripped and painted with KBS. Have the transfer case stripped and painted also along with the axles and springs. New u-bolts on the axles and new poly bushings on the springs. Its all back together now also. Brake proportional valve cleaned and KBS coated. I installed the valve and ran new all new SS brake lines including braided lines front and rear. Have the transfer case brace cleaned, painted and installed with nos bushings. Drive lines are cleaned, painted with new u-joints and waiting on me to put install.
I am still waiting to get my bed back to confirm what I see is different. I can probably give you some pointers on potential issues from this point forward. I am ahead of you on that aspect, my 445 is in, and definitely some things to look out for. Your clearance is going to be tight with those valve covers. If you are running a different starter, mine is Rob Mc, then you may want to be prepared for some block grinding. Hoping my inner fender comes in and I can get this thing started by EOWeek. Glad to see the progress.
Dustin,
I did get a new mini starter, but my factory one fit just fine before the rebuild with my try-y headers from Stan’s headers. I also upgraded my brake booster to the one that sits up an inch or so higher to clear the valve covers or so I hope.
It will be close on the brakes. I am running the taller E-Brock covers on mine....wish I had nicer ones, but they are stupid close to my OEM booster. Yours look taller than mine if that is the motor in your sig. On the starter, you "may" be ok if a powermaster. I went with Robb Mc, knowing it was as long as an OEM but smaller and clockable. The issue is when you rotate it to gain clearance from the pipes it hits the block casting, the big kickout/leg at the bottom of the block under the starter. I have been grinding on it, but have more to do so I can get it as far away from the hedders as possible. I will likely wrap the hedders to, since I do not want to go back and mess with it. The OEM starter is fine as is, but I had bad luck with parts store rebuilds so decided to upgrade and try to get the solenoid away from the heat. I am running BBM heads, and had to add to my older fitting modifications(dents) on the hedders but not major on that. You are probably good with your hedders, hope so anyway as they are bit more pricey than Heddmans.
I, too, have the tall Edelbrock valve covers so as to accommodate roller rockers. Disliking the idea of having to remove the power brake booster in order to remove the valve cover on the driver side, I opted to go with a HydroBoost system. Problem solved.
I tried to use the PowerMaster mini-starter for the 390 along with Holly manufactured headers but the clock-ability feature really didn't help. In talking with the folks at PowerMaster, I learned about the unit that they make especially for a Galaxy 500 with 427 and SuperComp headers. Not clockable but they work with my headers too. They don't advertise that model for some reason.
Here is a question, Flowney I was reading your wright up and I seen a picture of the brake lines in relation to the proportion valve. I put new lines on mine here as of late and replaced them like they where when I removed them. Honest I have pictures, lol. It is like this diagram, but your picture is the opposite and your isn’t the only one I have seen this way. Which is right and or does it even matter? This is how mine is. Picture was taken from Flowney thread.
I really can't be sure that the PO of my truck didn't mix things up. Please bear in mind that mine was literally a wreck when I started. Screwed up brakes could have been a cause of that wreck, I don't know.
Having said all that, the pressure coming out of the MC to the prop valve **should** be the same for each line. The prop valve alters the ratio front vs back. AFAIK, the stock system doesn't allow you to adjust that ratio. It's just what the factory determined to be nominal between front (disc) and rear (drum) brakes. The RF and LF lines are located close to one another and the rear is at the other end so this makes me think that the pressure for LF and RF is the same yet different from the one rear line that splits further back on the chassis to LR and RR. Thus, I think that this is/was correct.
I used a CPP MC with the HydroBoost which has a built in prop valve that is adjustable. I liked the simplification of brake lines in that area of the engine bay.
Hope this helps.
Flowney, you are correct on the starter. I saw it, but did not find any installs at the time. It solves the issue since it has the solenoid down low and that is away from the hedders. The RobMc is a good unit, the block grinding helped get more clearance. It is enough to not worry but I will still wrap the hedders on that side. As far as brakes, oh yeah....that will solve your problem for sure. I don't plan on going into mine after all this, but if I do, I will just sacrifice the DS valve cover. I am running non-adjustable rockers, so clearance is not the issue. I just got these due to cost savings. They would be ok if I had shaved the name off, not liking that now really.
Too bad I had rebuilt the prop valve, ran all new lines, redid all components before I saw that you could easily do a Hydro Boost swap. Pros and Cons to all but I feel the Pros definitely outweigh the rest and after I get this thing on the road again, that is one of a couple of upgrade projects. Did the 73-77 Highboys have different style Prop valves? I can't recall the last iteration before the low boy but I know they went to an open knuckle Dana 44 HD which ran disc up front so maybe there was a PV change. The ones I have seen are different than the ones in this thread, as in mine, my truck is drum/drum. Just curious.
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All my finishing work has been focused on my tilt bronco over the last year or so, so its tomatoes tomatoes.. . I can appreciate the OP's work
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