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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 09:46 AM
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Transmission flush/mess

I flushed my trans over the weekend ala Eric's suggestion to pull a line and stick it in a bucket. Worked line a charm, flowed about a gal a minute or more. Just started pouring new fluid back in after the pan emptied.
.....................................
Only one little problem. The Rubber maid 2 1/2 gal bucket I just bought leaked like a sieve! Thank goodness for the bucket of oil dry I keep around.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 10:21 AM
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so could you explain to me what you did?

tools and such? one bucket two buckets what?

by the way, what type tranny fluid in a C6?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 11:30 AM
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Just disconnect the tranny line at the radiator (the one sending fluid to the cooler) and use a short piece of hose to stick in a deep bucket. You need a drip pan for the radiator fitting too. In my case I flushed 17 quarts. I have a deep tranny sump. You want to make sure the hose doesn't jump out of the bucket. Start the engine in park and keep an eye on the bucket level. Depending on the size you may have to dump it once. After a few quarts you can start pouring new fluid in the fill tube. When the fluid runs clean you can put it back to gether and start topping off the fluid.

Get a bag of oil dry just in case!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 11:33 AM
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what about putting the other line in a bucket of clean fluid? would that cycle through correctly?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 12:14 PM
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it would cycle thru, but you will wind up wasting a lot of fluid as it is mixed with the old fluid contaminating it.

there is a drain plug on the torque converter to drain it, pull the inspection cover and crank the motor over to find the plug.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 12:36 PM
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i have already done all that along with a new filter, i like the idea of flushing it out this way, and i hate paying 100 bucks for someone else to do it. what type of tranny fluid does a C6 take?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 01:00 PM
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This is great easy procedure, but I always take the opportunity to drop the pan and check for metal shavings and to clean the screen/pickup. It's part of my maintenance on the tranny that goes along with changing the fluid. Just something to keep in mind that does need to be checked/serviced at about the same regularity as the changing of the fluid.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 01:06 PM
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well this tranny is on it's last leg, i am trying to keep it alive through the winter because i have to save up for a rebuild.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 01:08 PM
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ah, okay,, then nevermind
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 01:23 PM
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You cannot put fresh fluid back in through the return line because there is no suction. Pulling the pan is a good idea but I have an external filter that I change. This is a lot easier and more complete than draining the converter.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 01:29 PM
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The external takes care of the metal shavings and such? What about the pickup screen? Thinking I may want to convert to one of them.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 01:37 PM
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Grape,
A C4/C6 takes Type F. All others (FMX) takes Mercon. Somebody told me that the C5 was availble on these vehicles. I have never seen one nor have I seen it spec'd. I don't know what a C5 takes? I assume its modified from a C4 and would take Type F.
KingFisher
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 02:24 PM
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Oh okay, thanks dfisher. I'm going to be putting my 4 speed back in this truck. Any thoughts on modifying it for an external filter? Hmmm, no mention of the C5 in my manuals.
 

Last edited by grapegravy; Oct 16, 2003 at 02:26 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 03:44 PM
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how do you do this external filter thing?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 03:54 PM
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USE:

Wix transmission/PS filter #58964
200 psi working, pressure relieved, magnetic
change yearly or 12000 miles
Ford equivalent filter kit #XC3Z-7B155-AA
filter alone #XC3P-7B155-BA

Ford TSB's call for adding an external filter whenever your power steering system or transmission is serviced in any way.

I do not open the pan because if the tranny is acting OK it just makes it easy to get crud into the system. The filter in the pan is a simple fine mesh screen. If the tranny is messing up and throwing bunches of metal that you can see it is dying anyway.

Or if you want extra capacity use a remote mount filter kit like you use for engine oil and put on a purolator PER-1 or WIX filter. These filters do not have the magnetic particle trap in them but you can add magnets if you get a filter housing with the 4 ports and put magnets in the plugs on two of them that you don't use for lines.

This method is real clean and neat unless of course you have a leaky bucket. Drain the fluid out until you see bubbles coming thru the line. That means the pump is starting to pull air because the pan is empty.

The return line has no suction on it. It is just a drain back into the transmission pan thru the rear bearing area.
 
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