What to Clean - What to Replace?
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From: Orland USA
What to Clean - What to Replace?
OK. For us Dummies......On a 3.0 V6 when your engine is running ruff or not right what Sensors/units do you clean & which ones do you replace.
The reason I ask is in every message about this there is a piece hear and a piece there.
Now the O2 Sensor -- Replace? Or can you Clean It?
MAF ?
What else is there?
Besides the SparkPlugs/Wires or Dist.
I would like to get it all in one message so we can make a copy and keep with the manual
Thanks
The reason I ask is in every message about this there is a piece hear and a piece there.
Now the O2 Sensor -- Replace? Or can you Clean It?
MAF ?
What else is there?
Besides the SparkPlugs/Wires or Dist.
I would like to get it all in one message so we can make a copy and keep with the manual
Thanks
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,041
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From: Orland USA
I have another 89 Aerostar that the motor 3.0 has started to shake when first started in the morning (Like a Paint Shaker) then when it gets warmed up it smooths out. It also will shake if the car sits more than 15min. before being restarted but not as bad.
I kinda of ruled out Vacuum lines because it should still be shaking the same even after it warms up. Also Spark Plugs/Wires should stay constant too.
This just started last Monday.
I kinda of ruled out Vacuum lines because it should still be shaking the same even after it warms up. Also Spark Plugs/Wires should stay constant too.
This just started last Monday.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
Try all the easy ones first:
Clean out the idle air control valve with carb cleaner (Gumout). Try to use a small brush to physically dislodge the crud after the chemical has loosened them, and then spritz the whole thing again. There is a plunger thing that opens and closes the air valve; make sure it moves freely. Then check the air passages in the manifold that it feeds from and to, and make sure they're clear as well. On some cars, the crank case is ventilated into the air intake, and old engines with lots of blow by will get lots of oily crud built up around the throttle body and IAC valve.
Also check the MAF sensor to make sure it's clean. This has to be carefully cleaned with something like a Q-tip, but does not shed fibers. (There are some urethane foam type cleaners you might be able to find at electronic parts stores.)
eugene
Clean out the idle air control valve with carb cleaner (Gumout). Try to use a small brush to physically dislodge the crud after the chemical has loosened them, and then spritz the whole thing again. There is a plunger thing that opens and closes the air valve; make sure it moves freely. Then check the air passages in the manifold that it feeds from and to, and make sure they're clear as well. On some cars, the crank case is ventilated into the air intake, and old engines with lots of blow by will get lots of oily crud built up around the throttle body and IAC valve.
Also check the MAF sensor to make sure it's clean. This has to be carefully cleaned with something like a Q-tip, but does not shed fibers. (There are some urethane foam type cleaners you might be able to find at electronic parts stores.)
eugene
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From: peoria, az
JT, you may want to check you fuel system on that. It sounds like your pressure is draining down and takes a while to build back up. Maybe replace the filter. Try cycling the key 2 or 3 times before starting it and see if the shaking is any better.
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From: Orland USA
Stepman:
Nope didn't make a difference.
It quits shaking after it warms awhile. It is like it's missing then starts firing right. It has to be something that is not working until it gets warm.
Nope didn't make a difference.
It quits shaking after it warms awhile. It is like it's missing then starts firing right. It has to be something that is not working until it gets warm.
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From: Puebla Mexico
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Lead Driver
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From: SoCal
The IAC valve is on the right side (when looking into the engine compartment) of the manifold, right behind the throttle body. I've never taken it off of my Aerostar before, but I think it's held on by only 2 bolts, and there is an electrical connector on it.
Remove the electrical connector first, then the bolts. It may take some force to remove the valve from the manifold, and you could destroy the gaket in the process. If so, you will need to scrape it all off and install a new gasket. You can get blank gasket metrials from most auto parts stores, and cut out a new one if necessary.
eugene
Remove the electrical connector first, then the bolts. It may take some force to remove the valve from the manifold, and you could destroy the gaket in the process. If so, you will need to scrape it all off and install a new gasket. You can get blank gasket metrials from most auto parts stores, and cut out a new one if necessary.
eugene
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: New Brunswick
I pulled The Air bypass valve a few months ago and I did not really bother to clean it. The valve came off easily and I was able to reuse the old gasket. I took another valve off a junker since Ford charges an arm and leg for a stupid cylinder with a solenoid in it. 150 Dollars CDN for a new one?!?!
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From: Orland USA
Well I have Good News and I got Bad News.............
The Good News is I found out what is making my Engine Shake
when it is first started, Then Idle out smooth.
The Bad News is I have a Head Gasket Leak.
I borrowed a tester that you hook to a vacuum line then you put some Blue Liquid in a tube then take off the Rad Cap and stick it in for 2-3 mins. If it stays blue OK if it changes to Yellow......Exhaust Fumes. Mine changed Yellow.
Also you can go to where they do Smog Checks and have them put the wand in your Rad. and it will read if you have a bad Head Gasket.
So now I have TWO 89 3.0 I have to Rebuild.
What have I done in my Life to Deserve this???
Oh Yeah..I bought Them. 80)
The Good News is I found out what is making my Engine Shake
when it is first started, Then Idle out smooth.
The Bad News is I have a Head Gasket Leak.
I borrowed a tester that you hook to a vacuum line then you put some Blue Liquid in a tube then take off the Rad Cap and stick it in for 2-3 mins. If it stays blue OK if it changes to Yellow......Exhaust Fumes. Mine changed Yellow.
Also you can go to where they do Smog Checks and have them put the wand in your Rad. and it will read if you have a bad Head Gasket.
So now I have TWO 89 3.0 I have to Rebuild.
What have I done in my Life to Deserve this???
Oh Yeah..I bought Them. 80)