2004 super duty f250 lariat for sale, bulletproofed 6 l and new injectors wired glow plugs flicm or whatever order the letters are, high pressure oil pump (600 is the number he threw). He had the bulletproofing done by stroked out in GA. (Southern born truck) basically the kid got the truck off a one family owned previous life where it went father to son back to father on farm. He bought it did all the diesel tinkering now got his dream truck and is selling it halfway through his project. It’s got towing brakes. 4x4. Power rear window. Rear sensors. I asked him about it and he’s sounds like it could use done fine tuning or could run more perfect. Maybe he’s perfectionist, maybe he’s disorganized and didn’t go bout it all the right way I don’t know.? I just wanna know if what I’m getting into is worth it. And can I make a little cheese when it’s done or at least not lose . (Could I throw 1500 into cosmetic tires and brakes, and have a 7000-8000 truck? Needs: brake work. He thinks caliper is stuck. He’s real not even sure but can only drive it using e brake. New batteries. A tailgate. A temperature control unit dial thing. New tires. Has all alloy. Had a dent that can be popped out and another smaller dent might take bondowork. Driver seat missing some foam under a broken grey leather stitch, passenger seat needs 1 seam stiched, headliner saggin a bit. The factory sunroof was perm sealed rightcway y previous owners. (I’ll open it up). So he payed for it 3k and put close to 2k in it. (Nice getting a seller that spills all). Anyway he just wants 3500. I have first dibs. What do I do. Do I experience my first diesel in life with this turbo beast. (Turbos are almost new also). He seems to think cause his batteries are bad is why his video portrays the startup to lag out a little but it sounded powerful but behind). Anyways I’ll see bout posting his vids here. Any and all frank input is what I desire, would be greatly appreciated. Could this be a good truck to do deliveries bid driving etc.

 

Did you say you wanted "frank" input?

Because most folks don't, even though they say the do. People usually are asking for what they want to hear.

But I'll take a risk and speak frankly.

First, Welcome to FTE!

Second, if you want to get into fixing up a 6.0L, you'll need to do enough reading to the point where the order of the letters and the meaning of the acronyms becomes second nature. Not for the sake of correct spelling, but for the sake of understanding the significance and purpose of the components.

Third, the best subforum on FTE to ask 6.0L questions is the 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel sub-forum.

Fourth, besides Fuel Injection Control Module, which is the fully spelled out meaning of FICM, another useful acronym to know the full meaning of is FTE, which stands for Ford Truck ENTHUSIASTS. Note that the last letter in this acronym is not the next letter in the alphabet "F", or FTF, for Ford Truck Flippers. So you'll have to be prepared for the fact that you are reaching out to a community of ENTHUSIASTS, who masochistically enjoy helping fellow enthusiasts make their way through the excruciatingly costly endeavor of keeping a Ford truck, and in particular a 6.0L diesel Ford truck, on the road. These enthusiasts will not likely be as enthused about advising a flipper on how to "throw" a minimal amount of cosmetics into a truck to maximize profit that would end up being paid by a fellow enthusiast.

Fifth... what, exactly, are "towing" brakes? As opposed to what other types of brakes? Phrases like that raise suspicions about what is being represented by the seller. But you're in luck, because the 6.0L forum happens to have a resident enthusiast who retired from the brake pad validation industry... so you could ask there for an opinion about "towing" brakes too.

Good luck with your decisions on this project. All the questions you will have about the truck have already been asked and answered in the archives of this forum, and between taking advantage of the advanced search feature, and asking your questions on the engine specific subforum, you'll be both days and dollars ahead in what will not likely be a quick fix and flip.

 

That was about as professional and well worded peice of advice I was hoping for. Perhaps Jake brake or trailer brakes would be better? I just used the quickest adjective that came to mind. I was really looking to get a “buy it that’s an awesome truck or deal”. And ps, I love fords and my Ranger. Not really looking to flip anything but in the advent case case that the truck was too much for me or didn’t live it I could come out a dollar ahead. I don’t always word out my posts perfectly, as I type them on a cell keypad and going back making corrections that would satisfy the most extreme Ford guru is more trouble than it’s worth, in the end people know what’s being said. Thank you for your time.

 

Welcome to FTE!
I think the main thing to address here is whether or not you are willing to put the kind of time into this truck that it deserves. This will not be a quick fix by an means. As for the term “tow brakes”; there are certain parts stores that sell brake packages and one of those packages are labeled “tow/haul brakes” which basically just boils down to heavier duty pads and rotors and they charge you more. Also from my time in here reading posts and also from my personal experience with my F250; these heavy duty Fords are notorious for calipers sticking. Mine seized so I bought two kits for the front brakes and was ready to replace the calipers, pads & rotors. During the process I drained the first caliper of fluid and inspected the rotor to find that it wasn’t warped from the heat so I took a chance and put the new pads in and put fresh fluid in the reservoir. To my surprise the calipers worked flawlessly so I did the same on the other side. To shorten the story flushing the fluid and putting new pads in was all it needed. I’m not saying this will work for everyone but it did for me and saved me hundreds of dollars.