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If you can find a box maybe. Not sure there was ever a manual box on the newer trucks.
One reason would be the high caster tuning of the front end. With something like 8 degrees-positive caster, that's a LOT of force to turn against.
I love the simplicity and linear feel of manual (had it on my Bronco for decades with smaller tires) but could feel it every time I added caster. And I never got it to more than 2.75° positive.
Good luck though. What gearbox would you use?
And is there an idler pulley setup to let you eliminate the pump?
No problem on belts....someone (cpl of PO ago) put under drive belts on the set up and it is a non-A/C truck, So, I have a belt on Alternator and Water pump and a belt on PS only. So, would be able to drop one belt!
The only thing I did a power to non-power box swap on was a non-Ford and what you posted, box & pitman arm, was all that I needed to do.
The pitman arm because the out put shafts were different sizes.
Oh you may have to deal with the input shaft size too but should not be to big a deal if they are different by just getting the right rag joint.
In my case on a non-Ford I also had to come up with a frame to box adaptor as they were different between the 2 boxes but don't think Ford did any of this.
I would see how hard it will be to come up with the pitman arm & maybe a rag joint before going for the box.
Dave ----
I am betting Ford never offered manual steering on a 4x4 1980-up. I really don't know for sure but would be surprised if they did. Maybe they had the gorilla option you could check when ordering the truck.
I have done this conversion and the manual steering gear will bolt right in. If you have the small rag joint you will need to change it for the large diameter unit, otherwise, it is a bolt in.
Well, decided to bite the bullet and totally re-do the power steering system.
New hoses, remanned pump w/reservoir, remanned box and Pittman arm, Going to be using it to tow the boat a lot and backing into ramps will be a PITA with manual only.
Simplicity was my desire, but I guess this will be better?
Now, if I can just find some OE pulleys to replace the under drive stuff on it.
The only thing I would change in your parts list is the reman box.
GO for either the Blue Top or Red Head boxes.
The store bought reman just install new seals and i hear they will get a lot of play in the wheel and start leaking shortly after install.
The Blue & Red are machined for bearings and then hand rebuilt.
I went with a Blue Top because my box had a little play, did not leak, and being everything else was new for the steering why not the box?
It was also cheaper IIRC. Came fast and return of core was easy also.
Dave----
I put a local store reman box in my truck and it did great. I am assuming getting a reman steering box is the same as getting a reman starter or alternator. It's a crap shoot, and if someone turned one in that was in pretty good shape otherwise, you will get a reman box in good shape. If it was seriously wore out, you would hope they would throw it away and not reman it, but you know how that goes.
P.S. If you want a good used box, get one from a ranger or Bronco II. They use the same exact box as the larger trucks and of course lead a easier life under the smaller vehicle.