I know the deal with the plugs breaking off so I took to a professional mechanic to get fixed they broke 3 out of 8 and were only able to get 2 out now the back passenger plug is broke off in the head they say they can't get it even with the extractor tool if any1 has any suggestions other than pull the motor to pull the head to get the plug out plz lmk

 

I guess first question Lisle or OTC? Although I'm not sure it matters at this point....

 

Take it to a different mechanic immediately and never go back to this one. If they can't perform this job, WITH THE TOOL, they should be run out of town. Seriously, I'm half an idiot and I was able to do this in an afternoon.

All they have to do is remove the computer mounted on the firewall and you can pretty easily access the plug. Literally takes only a few short minutes.

 

No 4 is a tough one . pays to look at it with a camera . you can get one to attach to your smart phone with a light on the tip to see whats going on . you can pull the head without pulling engine but pulling fender skirt to get to manifold studs is a job in itself . you can just cut the manifold bolts to the flange . After breaking 2 I went to champions ,never went back . I always use a very small amount of nickel anti-seize and a torque wrench set to 25 foot pounds .
Granted to be able to chip away on no 4 to remove some porcelain may be a pain due to limited overhead room . Not for the faint of heart . But you have to realize some engines have to be pulled just to change plugs --not that I would own one of those .Some shops pull the cabs on our trucks to do heavy engine work . I would not know how or have the lift to do it .
Chip on it ,vacuum out good, maybe pour some carb cleaner fluid in there ,let it try to dissolve some carbon and evaporate and get a good bite on tip before you try and extract it . You may need a fresh extraction tip as they do wear down . They are a long reverse thread tap just like any bolt extractor .
Stay patient and determined.

 

Why on earth are you even mentioning pulling the head to do this? That's 10x the amount of work.

 

Because I took it to a mechanic shop and they said that would be the only way to get it out then wanted to charge me 2300 to do that

 

Pulling the head is a last resort.Paying that much would really scald me . It is a lot of work but its an old engine . If you don't want to learn it and get dirty it will cost you .
Me I would fight to get that plug stem out even if it took me days to get her done .

 

Look for a different shop.

 

Again, find a different mechanic. It sounds like he either doesn't know what he's doing, is very unfamiliar with the job or simply doesn't want the work.

I don't mean to be rude (it just comes natural) but this is just ridiculous. Stop listening to this guy. Removing that plug is a challenge, but it's really not that bad. Remove the computer and the extraction tool gets it out. You'll have to use some series of wobble sockets, but it's very doable. I've done it, which means anyone can.

 

Sometimes the porcelain in the tip needs to be chipped out to get extraction tool to bite. Like i said get camera in there to see and clean it out as you go with a vacuum .Carb cleaner can dissolve carbon holding tip but be careful with it since its flammable ,it will evaporate over time.

 

Subscribing... any follow up? Very curious. Please update. Thanks.

 

Nope. If you don't understand how this works, don't give misleading advice. The tool pushes the porcelain piece in enough that you can then thread the extractor into the metal jacket for removal. No need to chip any porcelain or mess with cameras.

Watch this to learn how it actually work:

 

I know I extracted 2. Others have had trouble with excess down in there . They had to chip some stuff away I didn't have that problem but not all plugs break the same way . I have to believe the many guys who had this complication over the years and reported it . If it was all simple that shop would have got it out ,I'm sure they tried . I do all my own work and that's been a lot on this engine .
I have the tool , I have the cheap bore-scope . You might not need it -he might . I never used the failed mc plugs after that nor the next sp 515 model after that . So my lisle tool has not been used for years. But I have changed plugs many times . I have helped other guys put inserts in after finding bad threads with the bore-scope. Stuff happens !

 

Did mine last summer, 6 came great, #2 broke and the Lisle tool worked great, then #8 way in the back on driver's side seemed to be coming out great, but it left the porcelain and center electrode in the head with the lower shield. Found the Lisle 65710 "porcelain puller" . I have two 3V Fords so I'm OK with it. It'll sit well with the Lisle 65600 kit.

The addition of the Lisle 65710 to my 65600 kit makes it a 65700 kit.

When the porcelain puller 65710 arrived, I took it down to shop to test fit it on a used plug, it grips the top really firm, it snaps on, but then I tried it through the aluminum sleave 65610 that it is used with, was a few thousandths too big after clipping on top of a plug, … so I fired up a belt sander and sanded it around the gripper end segments just a hair at a time until it was a smooth fit with plug gripped. Once you slide this thing into plug well and get it snapped on top of the plug center electrode, then slide the sleeve down, it can't expand to let go of plug's top tip. Then just thread the large right hand nut on, ... and I just turned the nut with my fingers and it lifted the center electrode and porcelain top up out of well.

Then I used the porcelain pusher 65670 to push remains down into lower shield, then used the puller screw 65620 with left hand nut and sleave 65610 to pull the lower shield out of well. The pusher 65670 will push the porcelain just far enough to allow the screw thread of the barrell puller screw 65620 to get a grip.

Then I put in a new SP-546 with nickel anti seize on shield only in with hand and socket only ... until seated … then torqued it to 25 ft/lbs, put in coil with dielectric grease on / in boot and hooked coil lead and injector up.

Between steps, I used 1/4" hose on blow gun to blow out each cylinder and plug hole / well several times. As stated earlier, I did button up 1 through 7 and unplugged #8 injector and moved the truck with the 7 cylinders (slight miss). While I was moving it back to finish later, code P0358 set. I reset & cleared the code, and it stayed off. I guess the computer saw I had no coil there at #8 when moving it

I could not reach into that #8 hole with any pliars. That 65710 was a blessing. I was damn near in a panic when I saw Ford wanted you to use pliars to break it off, NO WAY … Below, the shiney part of the puller is where I sanded just enough for a slip fit when a plug tip was inserted in it.

　



I used SP546, the latest replacements. I had a set of SP515s, but they were bought on sale before the 546s came out. SP507 was OEM I believe. If you look closely, the SP546s have taller porcelain and a shorter top tip, so the spring to the coil gets compressed more. SP5456s also don't show signs of bluing from welding.

 

good to know about this tool for problem type plug breaks --lisle 65710 porcelain puller