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Check your fuse block to be sure your charge line is fused. I was getting my Leer shell installed and it was discovered my charge line was not fused. Without the charge line your battery on RV will not be charges while under way
The charge line on the new trucks is only a trickle charge- mainly to charge the brake away battery on your trailer. Ford made this change in '16 or '17. If you want to charge your RV batteries you will have to run an extra wire
The charge line on the new trucks is only a trickle charge- mainly to charge the brake away battery on your trailer. Ford made this change in '16 or '17. If you want to charge your RV batteries you will have to run an extra wire
Mine must be an exception because it charges my battery just fine. Again it's only activated when a trailer is plugged in and you hit the brake pedal.
An often overlooked limitation to the amount of charge current is the negative wire/connection in the 7 way plug. The entire trailer travel system (all lights, and electric brakes) share this connection.
A very simple upgrade is to install an extra ground cable from truck to trailer frame.
A better option is to install a dedicated high current outlet in the bed of your truck and on your trailer. I have 200 amps available in my camper. This may seem like overkill, but using a cable and relay large enough to carry that much current will insure a very low voltage drop from truck charging system to trailer batteries. A few tenths of a volt makes a big difference in the charge rate of the trailer batteries. While it’s impossible to have actual alternator voltage at the trailer batteries, your goal should be to get it as high as possible.
I agree with heavy uping the circuit. I have #2 wire running back to the camper batteries. Handles 125 amps. Helps take advantage of running dual alternators.