I have a '64 I would like to swap a later drum brake onto. In '68 they went to 11 x 3, compared to the 11 x 2 it now has. Does the 11 x 3 backing plate bolt onto the straight axle of the '64?

 

I don't know the answer to your question, but I'm sure you could drill out the correct pattern to mount the later backing plate. EDIT: You can use the later drum on your early hub but you will need to find studs with a large enough shank to fit the drum better or it will not fit snugly. That isn't your only problem however. They also started using the standard duty F250 spindle with larger journals. The inner bearing has the same OD, so you could use the later '68 to '72 bearing for it, but the outer bearing has a larger ID and OD. There isn't enough material to machine out the '64 hub to use the larger bearing, and you would have to try to find a bearing with the larger OD and the smaller ID to use the later style hub. You could have some precision spacers made to slip over the spindle snout, but are you willing to trust your life to that?

An alternative would be to use the larger journal F250/ '68 up F100 spindle on your straight axle. I believe the king pins have different dimensions, so you would have to have the holes in the axle reamed out to fit the later king pin, but that isn't hard to do. The thing to watch out for is where the lock pin engages the spindle. It changed in '66 (moved up), but maybe the '65 is the same as the older style straight axle.

I did this upgrade on my '66 (which is a whole lot easier) and I'm delighted with the results. I'm using modern ceramic matrix brake shoes form Muscle Car brakes and they stop as good as discs in normal every day driving.

 

Same size wheel bearings for the '64 as all the later trucks. Spindle should be the same.

 

No Pete you're wrong. The bearing size changed in '68 at the same time they changed to the 3" front drum. As I said, I've already done this swap, so I'm passing along information to help it go smoother for others.

 

OK, well I have looked up the outer and inner bearings and the references I see are the same, exactly. From '64-on. Not before '64.

 

Inners are the same. Outers different in 1968.

1964-66 Outer cup - B5A-1217-A - Bearing - B5A-1216-A

1968 Outer cup - C3SZ-1217-A - Bearing - C3SZ-1216-A

 

1957/67 F100 2WD 11 x 2 vs 1968/72 F100 2WD 11 x 3: The inner bearings/races are the same, the outer bearings/races are different.

1957/63 F100 2WD 11 x 2 front hub/drum is different than like 1964/67.

And: 1953/67 F100 2WD have 11 x 1 3/4 rear brakes while 1968/72 F100 2WD have 11 x 2 1/4 rear brakes.

 

I know the rear is different, but not worried about that. That's an easy swap if I want to change that.
I did some more parts cross referencing and see what you guys say now. It's funny, I guess I found a g;itch in some parts info some suppliers are using. I wasn't incorrect in what I found, just found incorrect info. So now. . I see where a spacer is available to convert from the smaller spindle to the 68-up bearings . to use the Dodge rotors for a disc swap. That same spacer should work in this instance to get the 68-up drum on the early spindle. I would be using 68- hubs and drums. Not trying to use my '64 hubs with the larger drums pressed on. I have some '69 drums with hubs. That '69 will have a disc swap. So these '69 hubs are for the taking for my '64. So it is just a matter of going from '750 diameter to .0843, to fit the ID of the bearing. A simple sleeve will do that. Thoughts?

 

Not sure if any of you are Harley guys . . but Harley went from 3/4" bearings to 1". then to 25mm on their wheels. So if switching wheels from a newer or older bike, you have to work through this issue. You can buy a bushing that has a 3/4" ID and has a 1" OD. The 3/4" ID will fit on the '64 spindle. The 1" OD can be turned down to 27/32" ( .843 ) on a lathe. I have a lathe, could make it from scratch, but getting the internal dimension correct is more difficult ( drill bits are not always exact, then you get into a boring bar, etc ) than turning down the OD. Plus, they are inexpensive. This should allow the '68 up outer bearing to work on the '64 spindle.

 

Personally I have nothing against power drum brakes as long as you know how to drive with them. I have them in my '76 CJ-7. And I would never swap to disc on a truck or the Jeep that I was driving and using like a car. However if I am using my truck as a truck which I usually do, I wouldn't waste my time going to larger drums, I'd swap in discs. They are really far superior in every way.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Eric, I have done many disc swaps. I do it for restorations I do for customers as well as my own vehicles. I have reasons why and when I do what I do. I want to keep this drum, just improve the braking. People erroneously think disc brakes stop better than drums. Discs have many, many benefits, but shear stopping power . . .no.

 

I think you're wrong there. I might give you the "equal stopping power" if you adjust them every day, and never drive threw a puddle, and never overheat them, but in normal use I think you're wrong. I've had my fair share of drum brake cars and trucks and although I have no issue with them under light conditions, they fade from heat, they fade from water, and they fade when not adjusted properly, non of which you get from a disc.
And that's my extra 3 cents.

Eric

 

Eric, take me for my word and exactly my word. I know what I am saying. I choose the words carefully. I'm a retired Auto Instructor. I didn't say repeated stops, it's not for racing, didn't mention running through a foot of water. I know exactly the limitations, I also know what I want to have. Like I said, many disc swaps done. .many. Just don't want it here on this '64.

 

I wasn't trying to talk you out of it, just don't want to mislead others by thinking drums are as good as discs. Like I said I've been running power drums in my CJ for a few years now, and before that they were manual drums. The only reason I went to power was because my wife has short legs and she was having a bitch of a time stopping it. But my Jeep is my daily driver during the summer months and she doesn't generally go over 45, and she wears a glass body so I don't think she ways 3000 lbs. wet.

 

I agree. I added power to my '71 F100, which is still drums. But I tow with it once in a while and the power is helpful. But my '69, with a 428 4 speed toploader, , ,, disc swap My '64 still has it's Y Block, want to keep it as original looking as I can . . to a point. So larger drums will achieve that. I run dog dish caps on Vintiques wheels . so not drum to show through. Don't need the discs for appearance. So I have plan for all vehicles, know exactly what I am after. I was just wondering if anyone knew about the swap I proposed before I dug into it. Simple parts look up was evidently wrong But the bushing I can make should work fine.Here's the '64 in question.

ld work fine.