Thanks so much. You're talking about the nuts from the studs on the T/C that run through the flexplate, right? The purple nut in this diagram?

 

For anyone that may see this, here's a quick update:

I pulled my original trans out of the truck. Wasn't that hard but took a long time due to some very grumpy bolts on the turbos/catalytic converters and drive shafts . Luckily I got everything off without anything breaking!

In preparing to do the swap of the whole transmission, I still felt uneasy about the donor trans I received. Closer inspection still made me think it wasn't as new or low mileage as advertised. The trans was advertised as out of a 2015 F150 with 68,000 miles. My truck is also a 2015 with 72,000 miles. I posted a photo already of the ATF which was VERY dark compared to my fluid that's still pretty deep red (even before running on low fluid and refilling). There was also a lot of dirt on and around the trans unit, even some in different ports and fittings on the trans/bell housing.

Ultimately this made me stop and think a bit more before installing. I would hate to do all the work and have a bad trans I am putting in - even if it does come with a warranty.

I decided to call Ford and was able to verify the serial number of the trans I should have received, based on the VIN of the donor vehicle. Unfortunately my suspicion was correct. The transmission I received is NOT from the donor vehicle as advertised.

I had a crazy day at work so will be contacting the seller tomorrow along with eBay/PayPal to see how I can resolve this. Under my warranty, I can return the trans with no questions asked but they will want me to pay freight shipping to do so which I absolutely will not do given that they intentionally did a bait and switch and shipped me a different trans than advertised.

I'm still wondering about how I can combine my current good parts (valve body) with a donor trans to avoid programming and just be done as soon as I put the last bolt in place.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Even having my trans removed, a rebuild will cost me much more than a used unit but unless I can verify serial numbers before/after on the next one, I have no way of knowing the true history of any used trans. Appreciate any help anyone can provide. Will post another update once I have one.

 

Posted this same question on the wrong thread as I have 2 similar but different threads.

Due to limited services available right now because of COVID19 and my need to get my truck mobile again, I am coming back to my original question - just trying to get clear confirmation; anyone who can confirm, please do so.

Can I put my original valve body in my "new" donor trans and then it will work without any reprogramming required?

I know this was not advised since there could be contaminants and this could cause other issues so I just want to know at least for the interim while I have to wait on anyone being willing to service it (limited options in my area) if this is feasible. Can I swap valve bodies and the used donor trans would then function just as my previous trans, same shift points, etc. Is this right?

Am I correct in thinking that the transmissions are all identical mechanically and the only thing different is the valve body which controls shift points? If so - why have different solenoids/shift programming in the first place if all transmissions with the same ford part # were identical? Why make them shift differently? Is it because of the platforms they were put in? So a single cab long box would be programmed to shift differently than a crew cab short box? Even then I'm confused (and just want to understand this more) because my donor trans came out of a CCSB which is the same platform I'm installing it in but the two transmissions still have different solenoids. Why did Ford do this?

Thanks for any input. Again, I know the recommendation is to NOT swap valve bodies and I won't if I can get in for programming but if COVID continues to keep things shut down I will have to swap for the meantime so I can run my truck again until I can get in for a reprogram.

 

The solenoids are different hence the different shift strategies, the solenoids correspond to the as built clearance in the clutch packs and clutch count. Getting a reprogram done right now should be a non issue. All the repair shops are open. I have more units in line then I normally do for repairs.

 

So does that mean that putting a different valve body in the trans then does not correlate to the actual mechanical "build" or tolerances so it wouldn't shift properly?

Instead, in the interim, can I safely drive the trans in "manual shift" mode to avoid damage from different solenoid strategies? At that point am I bypassing the solenoids/programming?

 

Damage can result, reference post 7 for my suggestion.

 

Thanks Gashog. Post 8 had me still confused since it was contradictory to your post #7. I had looked back at those before my last post but will proceed with getting it programmed as soon as I find a shop who can do it among the COVID panic/shutdowns.

 

Hi GasHog - I wanted to ask about the programming. In post #3 you mentioned that I would need to get the new solenoid strategy programmed. In post #7 you said that I can clear the KAM/adaptive drive tables and leave it alone if I'm happy with the shifting.

At this point, the swap is complete and I've driven around town a few times, probably 20 miles total. I did use Forscan to clear the KAM before any driving and the transmission shifts perfectly, extremely smooth.

So I'm left wondering: Do I need to go do the programming or am I fine to leave it as is? I still don't really understand why all transmissions have different solenoid strategies because I would have thought they were all built identical and should shift identically? Ford told me the speedometer would need to be programmed too if the donor vehicle had a different rear axle/gear ratio than my truck. The donor vehicle DID have a different gear ratio but my speedo is still correct (confirmed via GPS).

If I need to do the programming to avoid any kind of mechanical/internal damage I absolutely will, but from initial testing/driving the transmission seems to function perfectly without the programming.

Any input on this?

Thanks for all your help on this issue.

 

If its shifting fine then leave it. I have had some that were fine and some that were not. More times than not I have been lucky on the swaps. The speedo in these trucks is not affected by gear changes, the tone ring only cares about tire diameter.

 

Thanks Gashog.

I decided to go ahead and get it programmed. I was 99% sure it would be fine without the programming based on how smoothly it shifted and drove but that 1% would have given me constant paranoia that I'd have issues down the road. Basically figured it was worth the peace of mind to to pay for the programming. No noticeable difference in how it shifts since programming but at least now I know I followed the official Ford procedure all the way through.

Thanks to you and everyone who weighed in while I was working on this. I'm very relieved to have my truck back!

 

I know this is an old thread but I’m doing this job now. Wondering why you brought it to the dealer when you say you have forscan. I was told you could delete the original Tranny solenoid numbers and enter the new Tranny numbers using forscan ?

 

then you are more wise than I. I did not know it could be done in ForScan. If I had known, I’d have gone that route. Do you have a manual/know what to do? I can share the docs if needed.

 

This is what I was told, either Forscan or IDS. I don’t have either. Is Forscan expensive ? It would save me a trailer ride to the dealer who is an hour away. I’m already pretty deep into it, the only hurdle I see at this point is the upper exhaust manifold bolt on the drivers side, got everything else off but that one. It’s so close to the floor I’m thinking bending the floor a little with a big *** bar to get to it. How did you tackle that one ?

 

I don’t remember specifically, I’ll look under the hood. I also recorded the process with intention to post for others to follow but never did. I’ll see if I can find the video, none of the bolts were difficult though.

ForScan is free, just download and learn how to use it. But only works on windows so if you have a Mac you’re SOL (or run windows on Mac).

i will see if I can find the video of how to remove everything. You have a 3.5 or 5.0? Mine is 3.5

 

3.5 , also what do you need to hook the program to the truck after download , and thanks.