When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
In a previous thread I was getting no crank. I got that fixed - I think. Loose shifter bracket.
But after starting and running fine for a week, and after making a trip yesterday after I tightened the bracket, I now have crank, but no start. It ran just fine and then no start.
V10, 214K miles, likely original plugs/cops. It has displayed rough idle/hesitation at random times in the past year or two, but never no start. I replaced the alternator 7 months ago. Was getting P0720 then. No codes now. Changed fuel filter 1 year ago.
I'm going to check fuel at the injectors line valve.
I've also noticed a clicking sound on the passenger side at start up. It goes away in a few minutes.
Do I drain tank, attempt to remove the 2 filler hoses (the main hose clamp is already missing), and then just support with a lift, and remove the 4 bolts?
Thx. I just did. I sure thought I felt it reset when I pushed down on it, but no start. Nothing had happened between when it was running and a few hours later when it would not start. We backed it up, hooked up a trailer, and no start. I'll check gas at the rails in the am, but I'm not hearing any pump sounds from the fuel tank. Is there any way to test Voltage at the tank without dropping it?
Thoughts on bosch or other aftermarket pump? I'm good with the $300 MC if it's superior to all others.
Any write ups on how to replace pump? Mostly what needs to be disconnected before I remove the 4 bolts? And naturally I had just filled the tank.
One bit of additional information. While it does not start at all now the first several times it did start but ran very very rough. Idle was very rough and if I pressed the accelerator it would almost always die. I guess in my mind that suggests that my fuel pump was on its deathbed and finally gave it up.
But after starting and running fine for a week, and after making a trip yesterday after I tightened the bracket, I now have crank, but no start. It ran just fine and then no start.
Start simple by giving it a blast of starting fluid and then see if it fires over briefly. If it does you have a fuel delivery issue.
Thx. I just did. I sure thought I felt it reset when I pushed down on it, but no start. Nothing had happened between when it was running and a few hours later when it would not start. We backed it up, hooked up a trailer, and no start. I'll check gas at the rails in the am, but I'm not hearing any pump sounds from the fuel tank. Is there any way to test Voltage at the tank without dropping it?
Thoughts on bosch or other aftermarket pump? I'm good with the $300 MC if it's superior to all others.
Any write ups on how to replace pump? Mostly what needs to be disconnected before I remove the 4 bolts? And naturally I had just filled the tank.
There are several threads here at FTE about swapping the pump. I'll see if I can find a link or two.
If you've got a friend that has replaced a Ford fuel pump, this might be a good time to ask for a favor. A full tank will weigh about 350#. That's a lot to balance while working on the tank so another pair of hands are extremely helpful.
There are several threads here at FTE about swapping the pump. I'll see if I can find a link or two.
If you've got a friend that has replaced a Ford fuel pump, this might be a good time to ask for a favor. A full tank will weigh about 350#. That's a lot to balance while working on the tank so another pair of hands are extremely helpful.
The links would be helpful. I plan to drain as much as possible. Fill the car, mower, gas can, cats, ... Lol.
There are several threads here at FTE about swapping the pump. I'll see if I can find a link or two.
If you've got a friend that has replaced a Ford fuel pump, this might be a good time to ask for a favor. A full tank will weigh about 350#. That's a lot to balance while working on the tank so another pair of hands are extremely helpful.
Is there anything that needs to be done, like disconnect, before I remove the 4 bolts? I live on 2 miles of limestone gravel. This time of year that means I have concrete packed in all along the underside. I have to scrape out as much as I can.
You're going to need an odd looking wrench to loosen and and tighten the ring that secures the pump flange to the top of the tank. They're not expensive.
And make sure to loosen the fill tube. The original would be 20 years old now and a bit brittle. It will tear easily if you try to move the tank without disconnecting it first. (Ask me how I know!)
I had a Ford mechanic friend help me with my replacement and (except for going back to the parts house for filler tube) we got it done in a bit under an hour. He's done hundreds so it was second nature to him. Plan on 2 or 3 hours if you've never done one.