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I have a 2000 f250 v10 I purchased new. It has 170k miles. It started missing. No codes. I have changed the plugs. One of the coil packs #3 the connector had a small flat piece that fell out. It clicks onto the coil pack and I tried to put the piece back in and broke it.
Does iit have to "click" for it to work?
How do I check that connector to see if it is getting fire?
Truck was missing before this happened.
I have never had any issues with this truck.
They don't have to snap to work just fine, but might be worth replacing. You'll know if it's working or not if you unplug it while it's running and feel a slight stumble in the engine.
I replaced three of mine a while back, not sure what the best way is, but I just cut mine off and soldered in the new ones.
They don't have to snap to work just fine, but might be worth replacing. You'll know if it's working or not if you unplug it while it's running and feel a slight stumble in the engine.
I replaced three of mine a while back, not sure what the best way is, but I just cut mine off and soldered in the new ones.
They don't have to snap to work just fine, but might be worth replacing. .
If the locking tab is broken and it seems to still work that's not a reason to let any connector go unrepaired. At some point it will lose connection and create a miss---you're not really saving anything by delaying a repair you know needs to be done.
If you aren't getting any codes with a scanner, then you might have a vacuum leak. Have you pulled your idle air control valve and checked it is clean and freely moving?
Rather than snipping/soldering the connector wires, you can simply pull off the old broken connector and replace it. All you need is a push pin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMgKZ-AQwhM
If you aren't getting any codes with a scanner, then you might have a vacuum leak. Have you pulled your idle air control valve and checked it is clean and freely moving?
Those parts are probably OEM which are the better choice by far. That site is amazing as they have different options for replacing the COP connectors---thanks for sharing that here, reps sent!
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