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Coil pack connection.

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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 09:32 AM
  #1  
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Coil pack connection.

I have a 2000 f250 v10 I purchased new. It has 170k miles. It started missing. No codes. I have changed the plugs. One of the coil packs #3 the connector had a small flat piece that fell out. It clicks onto the coil pack and I tried to put the piece back in and broke it.

Does iit have to "click" for it to work?

How do I check that connector to see if it is getting fire?
Truck was missing before this happened.
I have never had any issues with this truck.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 02:36 PM
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You could just buy a new connector from Ford or online? Likely have to depin the connector.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
You could just buy a new connector from Ford or online? Likely have to depin the connector.
Thanks. I ordered through Rock Auto.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 05:23 PM
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You could try to zip tie it on in the meantime.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Dweber85rc
You could try to zip tie it on in the meantime.
I've got a couple COP and injector connectors that have been zip tied since about 2013.....

 
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dweber85rc
You could try to zip tie it on in the meantime.
yea gonna do that.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2020 | 11:06 AM
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They don't have to snap to work just fine, but might be worth replacing. You'll know if it's working or not if you unplug it while it's running and feel a slight stumble in the engine.

I replaced three of mine a while back, not sure what the best way is, but I just cut mine off and soldered in the new ones.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2020 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by johnfist
They don't have to snap to work just fine, but might be worth replacing. You'll know if it's working or not if you unplug it while it's running and feel a slight stumble in the engine.

I replaced three of mine a while back, not sure what the best way is, but I just cut mine off and soldered in the new ones.
Thanks I'm gonna do that.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2020 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by johnfist
They don't have to snap to work just fine, but might be worth replacing. .
If the locking tab is broken and it seems to still work that's not a reason to let any connector go unrepaired. At some point it will lose connection and create a miss---you're not really saving anything by delaying a repair you know needs to be done.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 08:03 AM
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Rather than snipping/soldering the connector wires, you can simply pull off the old broken connector and replace it. All you need is a push pin:

I bought my replacement connectors from here:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ad...ds=CONN-100156

If you aren't getting any codes with a scanner, then you might have a vacuum leak. Have you pulled your idle air control valve and checked it is clean and freely moving?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 10:13 AM
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Thanks! That is great
 
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 12:48 AM
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Wow, cool!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bajaphile
Rather than snipping/soldering the connector wires, you can simply pull off the old broken connector and replace it. All you need is a push pin:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMgKZ-AQwhM

I bought my replacement connectors from here:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ad...ds=CONN-100156

If you aren't getting any codes with a scanner, then you might have a vacuum leak. Have you pulled your idle air control valve and checked it is clean and freely moving?
I did this today thanks.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 11:15 PM
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Bookmarked the video thanks.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bajaphile
I bought my replacement connectors from here:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ad...ds=CONN-100156
Those parts are probably OEM which are the better choice by far. That site is amazing as they have different options for replacing the COP connectors---thanks for sharing that here, reps sent!
 
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