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Just got off the phone with the dealer. The vacuum check valve is bad and being replaced. The IWE was not damaged other than a little polishing on the end of the gears where they rubbed. I’ve had service and warranty repair done at this dealer many times and they have been good, so we’ll see.
I read a few years ago about modifying the check valves. I’ll have to dig those posts up, so I can eliminate that weak link.
The truck is still in the shop as there is a bolt on back order for the seat belt recall.
I'd like to see this mod for the checkvalve, wouldn't be adding another in tandem, would it?
I've read where some dealers just went ahead and started replacing IWEs without addressing the root cause. Guess what, owner comes right back, and they replace something else, pathetic.
I will say in some dealers defense, if they can't replicate the problem, how can they fix it? You and I seem to be some of the few that can go in there and talk with them on the same terms, it makes quite a difference.
I'd like to see this mod for the checkvalve, wouldn't be adding another in tandem, would it?
I've read where some dealers just went ahead and started replacing IWEs without addressing the root cause. Guess what, owner comes right back, and they replace something else, pathetic.
I will say in some dealers defense, if they can't replicate the problem, how can they fix it? You and I seem to be some of the few that can go in there and talk with them on the same terms, it makes quite a difference.
I can't comment on adding a second check valve, but it seems that this problem has cropped up enough times that the check valve might be one of the prime suspects for any dealer who's been around for a few years.
I can't comment on adding a second check valve, but it seems that this problem has cropped up enough times that the check valve might be one of the prime suspects for any dealer who's been around for a few years.
Agree, it's the cheapest and easiest part to replace as well. I mentioned the 2nd valve since I thought of that, and mentioned it to others, before Ford finally came out with the latest version. I took a YG360 checkvalve to mine when it started acting up with less than 500 miles on the truck. I ran like that until a few months ago when I replaced both with the new valve. I also have another complete valve and hose, still in the bag, stashed as a back up in my console.
It surprised me that the tech that initially tried to fix mine, didn't seem to know how the system worked. That's a fault on Ford.
The truck done yesterday morning. A vacuum check valve was replaced. 4x4 engages without issue now. No damage to the IWE. All hoses were checked and the vacuum was tested.
4 recalls were completed, door handles, seatbelt bolt, insulation around the seatbelt pretensionor and replacement of the engine block heater.
I went ahead and had a 100k service done, even though I only have 50k miles. The heat, dust and towing my 22’ boat on long highway runs is why.
With oil and filter changes I should be good for another 4–5 years.
By saying it only happened on a cold morning the check valve would be the prime suspect in my eyes. I was working on a 15 when I was still a tech that only acted up when cold. Could never duplicate and the check valve held vacuum. This was like visit #3 to a dealership the other 2 being at a different location. I put the valve in the freezer for about an hour and it would not hold vacuum when retested. Installed new valve, fixed problem and gained a customer as they started doing service there and on the next oil change let us know that the problem was resolved.
Now it looks like Ford has a tsb to replace the check valve, IWE's as needed, check vacuum lines and reprogram the TCCM. I want to say there was an SSM about checking the valve after a cool down period when I dealt with that truck.
Purchased a used 2015 15 Lariat Screw 3.5l in early January 2020 and basically the next cold morning started hearing these IWE noises. Thanks to this forum I isolated the issue and found the TSB. Took a good month before all the parts were in but here are the details of what they replaced under "warranty".
I think we can thank the TSB for that. The noise was getting really really bad by the time I got the call. I can only imagine what untold damage occurred.
Thank you ford-trucks.com for the empowerment.
Brought my ‘15 in today for this grinding issue which has been happening on and off for months now. Last Friday when it was cold (Northeast) it happened quite a few times. Unfortunately today it is warm and they could not reproduce the sound. I left them a copy of the TSB, but unless they can reproduce the noise they won’t do anything. The tech claims I have a heat shield loose that is causing the noise and wanted to replace a clamp for $80. I told them the noise is not a heat shield and to forget the clamp. So I will be charged $130 for a problem they couldn’t reproduce. Grrr. They suggested trying to get a recording of the noise.
I have an extended warrantee, so should I just wait until the bearings are toast from this problem? Don’t know how to convince them there is a problem.
Take it to another dealer. It's a common enough problem that an experienced service writer should know exactly what you're talking about. If it keeps doing it, eventually the gears in the hubs will get worn down or break.
I wonder if there is a particular mileage that those of us with the original design check valves should just replace them and consider it maintenance...rather than wait for an issue?
Or, do you think it's better to wait for a failure...assuming it isn't that common?
Thoughts?
I wonder if there is a particular mileage that those of us with the original design check valves should just replace them and consider it maintenance...rather than wait for an issue?
Or, do you think it's better to wait for a failure...assuming it isn't that common?
Thoughts?
My checkvalve quit checking at less than 500 miles on a new truck. I carry a spare valve/hose assembly with me, in case the new one turns to junk.
Two other things a guy could temporarily do. 1, pull the power for the solenoid, or, 2, if you have 4A, throw it into 4A. At any rate, the IWEs will engage, and prevent the grind of death.
I think I'd just wait for the failure, but be prepared. It might never happen to you.
My checkvalve quit checking at less than 500 miles on a new truck. I carry a spare valve/hose assembly with me, in case the new one turns to junk.
Two other things a guy could temporarily do. 1, pull the power for the solenoid, or, 2, if you have 4A, throw it into 4A. At any rate, the IWEs will engage, and prevent the grind of death.
I think I'd just wait for the failure, but be prepared. It might never happen to you.
You just know its going to fail completely at the worst possible time. Since mine seems to happen in cold weather I just unplug the connector to the solenoid in the fall and reconnect it in the spring. I've given up trying to fix it. The check valve has been replaced. The lines to the IWE's have been checked - they hold vacuum for hours. The vacuum source and reservoir have been checked and they're within specs. My vacuum reservoir actually holds vacuum for over 5 days when I don't use the truck. About the only thing left is the solenoid itself but that doesn't seem likely.
