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So the fuel pump gasket is leaking on my new to me 51’ F1. I’ve been looking a little, thinking it’d be pretty easy to either replace or rebuild the existing. But after looking at all of the pics for new replacements online, they ALL have the glass bowls on them, and current carb does NOT.
i believe from my readings, the current carb is the Holly 94, stamped with “Ford” on the casing. I will attach a few pics, showing the current carb without any glass bowls on it, and the Ford stamping on the float bowl.
if anyone can recommend the best place for grabbing a rebuilt or the correct kit for my doing the rebuilding, I’d appreciate the help.
Thanks
also, the fuel pump has a pretty good leak as well, so if anyone can let me know where to locate the correct fuel pump or rebuild kit, that too is needed.The fuel pump should be in one of the carb pics.
If this helps, the engine is the original to the truck, 1951 F1 with the 239 V8 and manual 3 tree.
There is a guy on the Ford Barn forum that will rebuild your pump and or carb and test run it on a flathead before shipping it back to you. He uses alcohol resistant material for modern fuel. Look up Charlie ny. The pump I sent him was an old American made replacement that was not rebuildable. He sent me back a rebuilt Ford pump. In my opinion Charlie is a better option than any Chinese pump you buy new.
I'm confused; you say that the carbs online show a glass bowl? The 6-cylinder '51's had a single barrel carb with a glass bowl. The carb you have is a stock Ford / Holley 94.
On the fuel pump, you might want to consider going to an electric pump. Even without gasohol, the flat V8's were prone to vapor lock in the summer, because of the pump being up high on the engine, and in a hot location. Gasohol just makes it worse.
yes, the black canister is the oil filter....new to me too.
ive read a few threads online re the heat issues with newer fuels having a much lower flash point. Would I simply disconnect lines to and from the existing fuel pump, and attach to the new electric pump? Best/safest mounting location for the electric pump?
just got back home so I’ll spend some time searching for the correct carburetor kit or already reman unit to get rid of that fuel leak and clean things up a little in that area. I’ll post what I find before buying, just in case this newbie is missing something important.
Last edited by OrlandoF1; Jan 29, 2020 at 08:04 AM.
Reason: Rewording
There are several places selling quality rebuild kits suitable for gasohol. I would not trust Speedway. Daytona Parts is in Florida, and has good stuff: They also rebuild carbs and have rebuilt carbs. Daytona Parts Home
Electric pumps need to go down along the frame rail, below the gas tank level. Airtex sells some good pumps that produce 1 - 4 psi, which is usually safe for Holley carbs without a regulator.
As you can tell from my previous post, I'm not familiar w your series truck. But, for what it's worth, here's the pump instructions from the one I recently installed on my '55. (Keep in mind the mounting orientation on mine is horizontal, which is not recommended. Lots of pumps will suggest a vertical or 45 degree angle orientation w outlet - carb side - higher than inlet to prevent air from getting trapped in the pump.) You might also look into an oil pressure safety switch to prevent fuel from continuing to pump when you don't want it to, e.g., in an accident w the key on. Also, I'm running 12 volt, negative ground.
When I first join the forum eons ago, I was mislead into the hype around the electric pump craze and purchased one... it is still in its original box despite growing the fleet to 3 big stock trucks. The need that was essentially guaranteed to arise hasn't.
When I first join the forum eons ago, I was mislead into the hype around the electric pump craze and purchased one... it is still in its original box despite growing the fleet to 3 big stock trucks. The need that was essentially guaranteed to arise hasn't.
I didn't realize you had 3 big trucks! It looks like you need a 1950. And you've got a a couple of Ford tractors plus one of those green ones. You gotta show us some pics.
Daytona Parts is only about 40 miles away from me. Great excuse to jump on one of the bikes and enjoy a ride today to check them out.
I haven’t driven the truck more than five miles yet, so the issues others have with the high temps and newer fuels misbehaving hasn’t occurred. Don’t plan on driving more than 10-20 miles tops, but the Central and SWFL heat could show itself when I least expect or want. So I’ll do some more reading on the electrics and decide while the carb is being rebuilt by myself or Daytona (call it a small thing, but if the original carb could be rebuilt and kept on the truck, that just seems better with ALL original).
If I do go with the electric, would I just leave the original fuel pump in place and do nothing, or should I spray some sort of oil into it and cap both ends to keep it from falling completely apart?
thanks to everyone who contributed thus far. This forum really is great, and nobody makes the simple questions sound stupid. LOL
Last edited by OrlandoF1; Jan 29, 2020 at 08:19 AM.
Reason: Spelliing
If I do go with the electric, would I just leave the original fuel pump in place and do nothing, or should I spray some sort of oil into it and cap both ends to keep it from falling completely apart?
When I originally replaced the mechanical pump w electric - about 25 yrs ago - we removed the mechanical pump altogether, then blocked the hole in the block w a solid piece that bolts into the same location. I believe we got the block-off plate from NAPA, where we also purchased the pump (pump never did go bad, btw - still works to this day). I don't have a good pic of it, but in the one below, the plate bolts on where the blue tape is, w those two bolts, which is where the mechanical pump used to be (the plate itself is in a box somewhere - I need to find it when I get my engine back from the machine shop). To the left, you can see my grandfather's set-up for the oil pressure safety switch. We did that when I was in high school.
The V8's are a little different, but removing the pushrod for the pump and installing a blocking plate is all that's required. You can pump thru the old pump, but that just heats up the gas.
