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This will require some "plastic surgery" but I think it's going to work. I prefer OE fan options. I'll keep ya posted on my results.
I'm going to pull the fan from my 2012 GT and see if this will fit. I think I could just trim the mounting tabs and other junk hanging on it and secure it with some aluminum angle on the sides. Dimensions are very close. I haven't seen anybody do this yet.
I've been doing some thinking about my use and purpose for the truck. Deciding to keep it NA. Will be going with the crower cam mentioned above pistons are sealed power 390 piston. I've decided to make a youtube channel documenting my build. Feel free to follow along. Will continue to post pics and use this thread as a sounding board as I appreciate the input and opinions greatly.
There are four trucks built with engines like the above that have over 9:1 compression and all have camshafts with .050" durations of 220 degrees and do well for all around driving and long trips.
The Crower 19212 doesn't have enough duration for your engines compression ratio.
Consider the Crower 19205 cam. It will be much more compatible with the rest of your engine build.
With the head work you have done it will pull strong from 1200 to 5000 rpm
Thanks for the advice. It's appreciated and I'll take it into consideration. Crower recommends the compression to be 9.5:1 or 10.5:1 with the 19212. I think this could be because of the overlap. I think should be safe with 93 octane. Do you agree?
Thanks for the advice. It's appreciated and I'll take it into consideration. Crower recommends the compression to be 9.5:1 or 10.5:1 with the 19212. I think this could be because of the overlap. I think should be safe with 93 octane. Do you agree?
I disagree
There is no .050" duration overlap with the 19212 cam. In fact it is 18 degrees shy of having any overlap.
What you need to know is that the 19212 is a small cam. It actually has 8 degrees less .006" duration than the stock cam which is why it won't tolerate a high compression ratio.
It is a total mismatch for all the rest of the head work that has been done.
You cannot go by any catalog specifications for compression ratios and rpm ranges.
The most compression using 93 octane fuel would be 9.3 at sea level.
The 300 six has an iron head and does not tolerate the same compression ratios as an aluminum head.
My elevation is at sea level. What's up with the vendors and their cam recommendations?
I've been playing with the calculators. LMK if you agree with this.
Intake closing point is calculated without subtracting anything for ground in timing. The Crower cam is at 0 degrees of timing and the stock cam has -4 degrees built in from the factory as I understand it.
Intake closing point Crower 19212: (260/2)+112-180=62
Intake closing point Crower 19205: (284/2)+112-180=74
I've also used an arbitrary number of 69cc for the cylinder head volume. This may be higher if I have room to unshroud the valves once I bore the block. I will be measuring this.
I'm toying with the idea of having Jet Hot coat my pistons and combustion chambers on the head.
Here's the numbers I have with the 19212 cam
Here's the numbers with the 19205 cam
Keep in mind i'm keeping this NA. I love the idea of boost but would be detracting from the simplicity of the vehicle and will be overbuilding it for what I intend to use it for.
I'm going to throw out another question for my internet experts.
I don't know of anyone that has used the Flatout head gasket.
This persons lives in Kansas at 1100 ft elevation.
He is running the Schneider 140H cam. (.496”/.496” 222/222 280/280 110deg) and a 9.75 static compression ratio.
Originally Posted by BigBlue94
My cam puts the DCR at 7.47. It will run on 89, but likes 91 better. No knock sensor, it's as bare bones as possible
I would say that you would be fine with 93 octane with a 7.7 DCR.
What happens is as you push the DCR limits you need to back off on the timing and you lose power.
It is better to give yourself lots of margin which keeps both ignition timing and air/fuel ratios from being critical.
Quick question.
Has the block already been decked so the pistons are at zero deck clearance?
Not yet. I'm making sure my headers fit before sending them out to get jetdher hotted right now. I know where you're going with this though. I'll post back with measurements when I get there.
Right now I'm Trying to document as much of ofthis as possible on video for posterity sake. A simple sarter change takes a lot longer cuz I'm trying to fiddle with the camera. Haven't done the YouTube channel thing before but I'm learning.
This video hopefully will help build interest in these old trucks when people can watch stuff like this on YouTube
Pardon pardon the spelling I'm trying to do this with Google voice typing on my phone