You can leave the bolts in on the passenger's side, that up pipe will come up with the collector. Remove the ones on the driver's side or you may just find that they are so loose in the doughnuts that they will just slide out. I removed the passenger's side fender liner to access my manifold to up pipe bolts because they required major surgery to get out and that made a big difference in accessibility.

 

The pipes almost always fall out of the collector. If not, you only need one side to come apart.

There is zero issue with the metal dust. There is way more than sufficient volume of sit to push anything out at idle and the turbine wheel isn’t going super fast.

It it would be different if you were subjecting 1200* (soft) wheel to debris at 50k rpms. That would be bad.

I have never cut up-pipes to remove them. I have cut many up-pipe to manifold bolts!

 

Use a prybar to ‘wiggle’ the collector on the pipes. They will fall out.

We have to re-use the collector for E99 bellowed up- pipes. I don’t know that I’ve ever unbolted them using original bolt heads. Welding nuts on works almost every time.

 

the foam idea work like a charm! I got really sick and tired of trying to deal with the bolts. Even the ones I could get a good grip on were super tight even after I got them to turn a couple of times. Filled the passenger side up pipe with foam let that set up while I put in my CNC Fab hpop lines and then cut the pipe right off. It literally takes 1 minute. Then I cut the bolts on the manifolds and was done. I inspected the pipe to make sure no metal flakes made it past the foam and it was clean as can be. Now for the fun part . Installing the new ones! Thank you guys for all your help and input

 

how in the world do you weld nuts on to the bolts against the firewall? You are far more talented than I am Sky ski hahaha

 

Ive never tried to remove those bolts in place. The collector will come off at least one pipe without all of that hassle. Remove/cut bolts to manifolds and wiggle/pry/beat pipes or collector IF the pipes are stubborn (they usually fall out - seldom requiring any struggle).

For E99 bellowed up-pipes, we have to re-.use the collector, so those bolts and flange have to come off. The welding is done on the bench.

I dunno about talented, but I have done this job many times. I still do bellowed up-pipes and turbo rebuild at least once a month.

 

yes that's the problem with doing it the first time , there is that whole learning curve thing. It took me forever just to do 8 bolts. My shiny stainless steel pipes are going to be in tomorrow, hopefully I'm not kicking myself for not spending the extra coin. For the price I had to give them a shot

 

You don’t want to know how long that job takes me now. I almost feel guilty charging what I do for that job.

Ive been using the inexpensive ‘polished SS’ up-.pipes for 3 years or so now. I recently upgraded a turbo on a set that had 54k miles on them and they still sealed perfectly and looked good.

 

You’ll want to install the passenger side pipe on the collector, then put those parts in the truck. Now, install the drivers-side up-pipe on the collector. I start the bolts from up top, then use my little cordless impact and long extension(s) to tighten them from under the truck.

Then install pedestal (diy delete EVPV for $1 or rebuild it if you live in cold climate).

Place the collector clamp on the collector slid back out of the way of sealing surfaces.

Install turbo.

It is sooooo much easier to have a helper under the truck at this point. With no bolts in the up-pipes to manifolds, have helper push the pipes up while you line up the collector to turbo, then slide the clamp into place.

Finally, install manifold to up-pipe bolts being careful to make sure pipes pull onto manifold evenly and make a good seal.

 

Thanks for the info jason , I got my pipes in today and they look like pretty good quality. One question, does it matter which way the bolts are facing, up or down on the manifolds? I think the bolts were facing opposite ways from one manifold to the other and I can't remember which way they were

 

Doesn’t matter. I tend to put the nuts on bottom...

 

Did we talk about $1 DIY delete for EBPV?

 

yes we did, but being that I already have the parts and I'm not the best welder I will probably just use the parts I have, thanks though

 

thanks J, what is your thoughts on wiring D wastegate shut? I tried looking it up but everything is from 2010 or earlier. I was thinking of maybe getting a big head wastegate but they are pretty expensive so if it is not needed I'd rather save the money

 

I just crank the WG actuator rod all the way down. Then use compressed air and blow gun to use the actuator to push rod out while you hook it up.

Welding is not required. You can tap and plug both holes. Plugging the EBPV solenoid back in on DIY delete means no codes.