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Hello I was wondering if anyone could shed a little light on what I should be checking or doing that I haven't already done.
Here is the story:
1988 ford p/u with 5.8 efi
Truck died one day. Replaced coil-nothing. Replaced distributor module and used the dialectric grease on the back like your suppose to. Problem solved. Next day it died again. To make a long story short I just burnt out the 4th module!!!
OK here is what I am thinking I should try next but I want some opinions here as I want to get it right the 5th time. This is getting expensive.
I am planning on grounding the engine block and the distributor itself to the truck and then replacing the module again. I just checked all wiring for bare spots and found none. I did find a ground on the firewall that was a little bit loose but it didn't appear to be part of the ignition system.
Try changing the condensor if you haven't already. It could be shorted, drawing too much current through the module. Also, if you've got a volt meter, make sure your voltage at the positive terminal of the coil isn't too high. Could have a bad voltage reg. in the alternator.
Running on all 8? No misfires? Even under load or accelleration? Bad plug or wire could cause coil spark to fire into pickup coil which is directly connected to TFI module. 50,000 volts would take out a module before long.
circledirt -- Seemed to run pretty good but heck even ford's running on 6 or 7 cylinder's sound good compared to other brands
Very good point I will do some checking for a cracked cap and or a rotor problem and probably should check all the wires with my meter while I'm at it.
THANKS!
The PIP is the pick up module that is actually an internal part of the distributor, it uses a magnetic pick-up to detect when the cylinders are in the right position so it can send spark to the plugs. It can go bad and cause problems. The condensor is nothing more than a noise surpressor for the radio, it keeps you from hearing the "buzz" from the spark in the radio.
Anybody know if there is a way to check the pickup coil with a multimeter? As most of you know there are three connection points on it when you pull off the module. I bought a new module and did some of the things previously mentioned. I still have to check the plug wires and the pickup coil if it's possible.
I will probably get to this today or tomorrow. I will update what I find out.
I used a Haynes manual to check all this stuff, it boiled down to a bad TFI module, but I took it to my local Autozone and it checked fine. Put it back in and no fire. Well, I pulled out the spout and now it fires but won't start.
The haynes does go indepth on the testing and really does giv e good idea of what is wrong.
Pickup coil is actually a Hall effect device. Module provides it with about 10 volts and as dist turns the windows in the dist make it switch on and off. Scope will show this as a square wave pattern. The fact that engine runs with new module for a while tells me the pickup is fine. I,ve never heard of a pickup taking out a module. The top wire at module connector is this square wave. Under a certain rpm the module fires ign coil by itself(cranking). Once engine is running the ecm uses this square wave and advances timing by returning its own square wave to module, it takes over timing. This is spout wire that you unplug to set base timing. The module then fires ign coil again by itself, but with no advance. Using both 5.5mm bolts to mount module? I think module needs these for a good ground.
Originally posted by circledirt Pickup coil is actually a Hall effect device. Module provides it with about 10 volts and as dist turns the windows in the dist make it switch on and off. Scope will show this as a square wave pattern. The fact that engine runs with new module for a while tells me the pickup is fine. I,ve never heard of a pickup taking out a module. The top wire at module connector is this square wave. Under a certain rpm the module fires ign coil by itself(cranking). Once engine is running the ecm uses this square wave and advances timing by returning its own square wave to module, it takes over timing. This is spout wire that you unplug to set base timing. The module then fires ign coil again by itself, but with no advance. Using both 5.5mm bolts to mount module? I think module needs these for a good ground.
Yes I am using both bolts and they are good and tight. I also only used about half as much dialectric grease last time to try and make the connection a little better.
Didn't get a chance to do any more work the last couple nights but will get to it soon.
Last edited by quentrm250; Oct 16, 2003 at 07:24 AM.
Progress report:
Changed the condesor.
Grounded the distributor to firewall.
Grounded intake manifold to firewall.
Changed distributor module.
Truck starts and runs. Voltage at the coil varies from 13.8-14.1 This appears to be normal from what I was told. Right???
I only ran the truck for about a minute and then shut it off. Tomorrow I hope to check all the plug wires with my multimeter and be sure they are all good and not causing a cross-fire in the cap that possible is hitting the pickup coil and thus taking out the module.
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