‘56 F100 Speedometer Bouncing
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
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‘56 F100 Speedometer Bouncing
So the last few times I drove the truck before parking it for winter the speedometer would bounce around excessively. When it would bounce down from actual speed there would be a noise... I dont know how to describe it, but it was a grinding sound, or like the trigger of a slot car track (where the trigger runs along the spring).
I had read posts on here about the speedometer assembly needing oil, so I pulled the cluster out. I hooked a drill to the back and it seemed to hold steady without the sound and bouncing. I was wondering if the brass piece that the square end of the cable/drive from the transmission could have partially stripped out the brass piece on the back of the speedometer, or should I be looking at something else as the culprit?
I had read posts on here about the speedometer assembly needing oil, so I pulled the cluster out. I hooked a drill to the back and it seemed to hold steady without the sound and bouncing. I was wondering if the brass piece that the square end of the cable/drive from the transmission could have partially stripped out the brass piece on the back of the speedometer, or should I be looking at something else as the culprit?
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 612
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From: Germany - Rhineland
I had the same problem with the bouncing speedometer. I applied graphite to the cable housing but to no avail. I replaced the gear at the end of the cable in the trannie but also to no avail. Then I replaced the cable itself - problem still unsolved. I ended up to pull out the speedometer. I applied some special mechanical oil (normally used for sawing machines) to all movable parts and gears and cleaned away the old oil which then had the viscosity of resin - problem solved.
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Cross-Country
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I had the same problem with the bouncing speedometer. I applied graphite to the cable housing but to no avail. I replaced the gear at the end of the cable in the trannie but also to no avail. Then I replaced the cable itself - problem still unsolved. I ended up to pull out the speedometer. I applied some special mechanical oil (normally used for sawing machines) to all movable parts and gears and cleaned away the old oil which then had the viscosity of resin - problem solved.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,670
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From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
The problem with testing it like that is 1st-the speedo has sat since parked so it will have a tendency to spin freely, and 2nd-it only gets runs for a short time while testing so no heat build up and expansion. The noise and issues you are describing are usually the result of lack of lubrication in the speedo head. I highly recommend you clean all the old lube out of the assembly with a good de-greaser like brake clean or lacquer thinner, dry it well and re-lube with a good quality machine oil like sewing machine oil. I will bet that will solve all you problems.
Nice looking truck.
Nice looking truck.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 92
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Just pulled mine out of the dash today, cleaned and relubed it. Having just done the cable last week, I'd say it's about 98% now.
It's perfect above 25 mph and very very slight needle "wooble" below 25 mph.
It's perfect above 25 mph and very very slight needle "wooble" below 25 mph.
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This also allowed me to clean off overspray off of the cluster glass and now have to decide what to do with the main cluster trim (previous rebuilder painted it silver and did not do the best job... Plus the rubber cluster to dash seal crumbled and new one does not quite cover the paint line
).Here is a pic of how filthy the cluster glass was:
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Central PA
Not really, Rico. I'm not sure how Ben painted his needles, but when I did mine I simply put a piece of paper under the needle to catch my errant brush strokes.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 551
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John Deere chain and cable lube works exceptionally well with the cable and drive unit. It comes in an aerosol can, I go through probably a dozen cans a year lubing roller chains and other cables.
I had the bouncing speedometer on my ‘49 when I bought it, lubed it once with the chain & cable lube and drove it, no more bounce.
I had the bouncing speedometer on my ‘49 when I bought it, lubed it once with the chain & cable lube and drove it, no more bounce.
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I started with just plain water to remove more of the dust/dirt, but that left the faces looking pretty streaky. I wanted to use something that was mild (not worried that it would remove the paint/numbers), but leave a stock-like matte finish. What I tested and ultimately used was Adam’s VRT (I use it on my tires for a deep matte black finish) which is a water-based product. It took a few times (3-4) to get a good uniform look.
Here is a link to what I used:
https://adamspolishes.com/products/a...-trim-dressing
Here is a link to what I used:
https://adamspolishes.com/products/a...-trim-dressing
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Cross-Country
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As abe mentioned, the needles you cant really screw up, otherwise I probably would not have done them as my hands shake just enough. Lol
I did that for the speedometer, but the temp and fuel gauges I completely removed the needles. They are so thin/flimsy, and I already bent one pretty good when one of my rags snagged it trying to clean the faces. 
Taking them off made it super easy to paint and allowed me to straighten it back up to perfect (and was not that hard, took maybe 5 min. to remove/reinstall).
Taking them off made it super easy to paint and allowed me to straighten it back up to perfect (and was not that hard, took maybe 5 min. to remove/reinstall).