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I keep getting a P20BA code on my 2016 F250. From what I understand, it is a DEF heater. My question is, how does it now the heater is bad?
Instead of replacing right now, is there a way to trick the system into knowing the voltage or ohms or whatever causes the code besides a tuner? Looking for a cheap fix until it gets warmer so I can fix it.
it’s not cold enough to freeze here. And I reset it daily, but it comes right back on and it causes the truck to drive sluggish. So I’m looking for a quick cheap fix until it’s summer and I can drop tank and replace. I want to delete yes. But they want around $3500 for that at the moment. So that needs to wait.
I keep getting a P20BA code on my 2016 F250. From what I understand, it is a DEF heater. My question is, how does it now the heater is bad?
It would take more effort to find the proper range the PCM is looking for and actually accessing those connectors atop the DEF module to make the hack than it would to just drop the tank and replace the heater.
some of us are under an extended warranty for the def heater. Did you check to see if you are covered? Ford pass or the owner website should show if you are.
According to ford, I am not covered under that. It is 1000 to fix these. If I do it, it is around 300. I just want to make sure it can be fixed with the heater and it isn’t something else too. Not sure what the P207F is.
I am also getting a P207F code. I can reset the P20BA, not the other. Is the P207F related to the heater code?
It's possible and that code is one the techs dislike the most. Of all the literature I have read, it states to always address Reductant Heater DTC's first. Then if the other codes are still present then address them second.
P20BA is most likely the heater, it is a very common failure. It could also be a defective line heater which is not as common. To know for sure if the tank heater is faulty is to check the resistance of the heater. If it's good anything under 2.5 ohms is acceptable anything higher it's defective.
When my heater failed, I only had P20BA. Heater replacement fixed the issue.
It would be neat if you could trick the GPCM. However, you'd likely have to open the tank to mess with a few wires (that aren't part of the vehicle harness because you don't want to add electrical issues) and at that point, just fix the issue.
I’m not covered under warranty unfortunately. I’m going to bite the bullet and replace the heater. I decided to check the battery voltage. They are sitting at 12.2. When started they move to 14.4. When I shut it back off, it goes to 12.9 and drops to 12.0 with in 10 seconds and stops. I think I have a battery issue too. WAHOO
I’m not covered under warranty unfortunately. I’m going to bite the bullet and replace the heater. I decided to check the battery voltage. They are sitting at 12.2. When started they move to 14.4. When I shut it back off, it goes to 12.9 and drops to 12.0 with in 10 seconds and stops. I think I have a battery issue too. WAHOO
if your battery voltage that low, I would start by replacing both batteries. Another user here posted that he had a P20BA code and replaced the batteries and the code went away.
12.6v is fully charged and 11.9v is fully discharged.
Got the P20BA on my truck about a week ago. Not under extended warranty for the heater but replaced today under the ESP warranty. No other codes, 6 years old and 86,000 miles so the heater failure was not unexpected.
Same here got P20BA, took it into the dealer and it was covered under ESP. Dealer was rough with the repair breaking the injector port off the DEF pump, dealer replaced the pump.
It's possible and that code is one the techs dislike the most. Of all the literature I have read, it states to always address Reductant Heater DTC's first. Then if the other codes are still present then address them second.
P20BA is most likely the heater, it is a very common failure. It could also be a defective line heater which is not as common. To know for sure if the tank heater is faulty is to check the resistance of the heater. If it's good anything under 2.5 ohms is acceptable anything higher it's defective.
Can you tell me where you are finding this information? I am going to replace the heater. On the off chance I get the Exhaust Fluid System Fault Code and the truck goes into 50 miles until XXX mode, I would like to know how to reset it. I believe I understand what a drive cycle is, but what is the procedure to reset the code if you are unable to drive the vehicle?
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