I would like to add an aftermarket sub to the back seat of my 2019 Platinum.

since it has the b&o system, the easiest way to do this is by installing a line out converter on one of the rear speakers.

on all of my older basic vehicles each rear speaker had a + and - lead running to it and you just hooked onto each one, not being familiar with how these higher end systems work are they still wired the same way? and if so, where would be the most convenient place to tap into these lines.

if anyone could provide me info that would be great, and/or an upfitter guide or something similar. Thanks!

 

Are you saying that you want to replace or add another aftermarket sub?

Are you aware that you already have a factory sub behind the rear drivers side seat?

No, it’s not the best sub in the world but it is there.

 

yes, i want to add a 1000w aftermarket sub + box in the back seat

 

Ahh okay.

I’m not sure about the B&O system or if it even matters but one would usually tap into the actual sub output of the factory system for the signal.

 

i need a wiring diagram of how the b&o works due to higher end audio having multiple lines for speakers, generally a line output converter which is what im using can only be hooked up to a speaker output and not a sub output, i will try the audio forum and see if i have any luck there. i will update this thread after i have it done

 

Make it easy on yourself and just get the PAC Amp pro for the rca outs. Plug and play.

 

299 us for a module, no thanks

the line out converter is 10$ and i need to run the amp power wiring and remote turn on lines anyway so an extra 10 minutes to tap into the speaker wires isn't an issue

 

I have not yet done this on my SD, but I have previously done this on my F-150 and Explorer, both of which were equipped with Ford's premium audio packages (inclusive of factory 8" subs).

First of all, you don't have a 1,000W sub. That's just a garbage way to think about subs and amps. You need to focus on RMS, because those are the numbers that are important when sizing your wiring, matching sub to amp, and so on. For the purposes of this write-up, I'll assume a simple job -- replace the factory 8" sub with an aftermarket 8" sub and amplifier. Good shallow mount 8" subs from Kicker, Pioneer, and others will be 200-300 W RMS. So, you'll want an amp that outputs 200 - 400 W RMS. Again, ignore the idiotic peak watt ratings and focus on the real RMS ratings to properly match and size things.

Second, the factory subs are just terrible garbage. I'm not an audiophile. I'm not a guy who listens to bass-heavy music (rap, R&B). But replacing the factory "sub" with something decent is an absolute game changer. Country, classic rock, whatever -- it all sounds 10x better with a real sub. Good 8" shallow mount, good ~300W amp, and wiring = ~$300. Great upgrade.

Third: you don't need a special signal processor/converter here. You might for the door speakers. You don't for the sub. The factory HU ouputs a low level (line level, not speaker level) signal to the factory amp. So, you already have access to a clean signal back behind your rear seat. However, the signal is carried on bare wires. You only need a simple wire to RCA converter -- just as simple as this one from Kicker, but anything like this will be fine.

Fourth: you'll need to run power and ground. The factory amp is somewhere between embarrassing and pathetic. I think the 12 VDC power is on 16 ga wire ... maybe 18 ga. You will use this wire, but not for powering your new amp. For something like Kicker 46CXA400, you're grabbing around 300 W RMS at 2 Ohms. Great little amp for this type of an approach. Anyway, something in that same range will be pulling around 10-20 amps nominally. 8 ga OFC wiring or 4 ga CCA wiring will work great. You can size up for expansion later on, if you think it's worth it.

Fifth: the small amp will easily fit under the driver seat, with a short wire under the sill to behind the rear seats. So, if you can't find a good place behind the rear seats, don't sweat it. I reuse the factory enclosure and leave all the factory amps/electronics in place. Just stuff the sub enclosure with polyfil (Walmart craft section) and use silicone sealant on any holes/screws/mounts you have to do. Power from the engine compartment is the hard bit. Everything else is pretty easy.

Sixth: remote turn on. This is the complicated bit. Amps will look for a signal to turn on and off. Every amp in the world will operate off of a 12 VDC signal. Ford uses a 5 VDC signal. So, the factory amp has 12 VDC constant power to the amp (on wimpy 16-18 ga wire), ground, low level inputs, and 5 VDC remote signal that is tied to your factory HU.

What you need is either a way to step this 5 volts up to 12 or a very specialized relay. I always go with the second option. PAC and NXT both make a relay. Basically, take the 12 VDC power from the old amp and this will be your remote turn on signal to your new amp. Attach that across the relay in the normally open config. So, the amp isn't seeing the 12 VDC turn on signal until the relay is energized (closed). And you attach the 5 VDC remote to that relay. Thus, when the HU sends out 5 VDC, the relay closes, and the 12 VDC power is sent to your aftermarket amp as the remote turn-on. Done.

Anyway, you'll have to order this relay from somewhere. You won't find any B&M store that has relays with 5 volt triggers. At least, I never have.

You can obviously go larger. There are custom boxes out there that allow 10" and even 12" subs behind or under the seat. However, the costs go up exponentially when you need boxes, heavier wiring, more expensive speakers, larger amps, etc.

Good luck.

 

lol! i appreciate the info, i have been doing my own vehicle audio for almost 15 years now though, i know all about rms vs peak power.. i used to run 2700w rms! through 2- 15's back in my youngster days (great way to go deaf early in life lmao) i am now running a kicker zx1000 which will run 1000rms at 2 ohms but im going 500w through a JL 12W6

i am gonna be running the remote turn on through the aux 1 switch in the headliner, and depending on what i have lying around i will probably run 4ga from the engine compartment and have the amp mounted either under the rear seat or maybe some sort of enclosure i havent decided yet (is there any pre drilled firewall access?)

so per my original post, i just need to find a wiring diagram indicating which wires are which in the rear door pillars so i can tap my Lineout converter into to go to RCA out, i am leaving the entire audio system stock including leaving the factory sub in operation. I will do a detailed build post on this for anyone that is interested in doing it themselves. it is very easy, after installing countless car stereos over the years from single to double din to touch screen and everything in between a lineout is the absolute easiest way to add any modifications without even having to open the dash.

 

There are a number of posts here where people have uploaded lots and lots of the wiring diagrams. However, they're a bit difficult to find because they're buried in other threads. Here is one diagram that another person had posted.

I probably oversimplified my earlier post. I think the B&O is more integrated than I gave it credit for. It's much more difficult to tap into the line level signals in the B&O. I think it's probably a whole lot easier to tap into the speaker outs and use a simple $20 line converter to push it back to RCA.

 

You wouldnt happen to have a youtube channel or video where you install the system you laid out on a Super Duty would you? I'd love to do this upgrade but know jack about car audio. I've replaced all my door speaker with JL Audio but that's pretty much plug and play.

 

Good luck with your build

 

Door speakers have an attenuated signal. Not where you want to pick up line level for a sub.

Pac serves a purpose.

 

No, I don't. But, I'd modify that long post above with a speaker-level install. Too much stuff is running through the amp/dsp to try to grab a signal before the factory amp. Dropping in an amp and sub is not really much more technical than replacing speakers ... just a few more steps and you have the PITA of running a thick power cable.

If you tilt your seat back forward, you can easily see the wiring harness for the factory sub (lots of good videos on how to lower your driver side seat back). Anyway, there's a bundle of 4 wires that come out of the DSP/Amp. For ease of installation, these 4 wires have a connector/harness and, in my case, it changes the colors. Anyway, the four wires are for the factory DVC sub ... +/- for each channel. The wiring diagram I posted earlier shows the +/- colors for each channel. But, as mentioned immediately above this post, you must grab the signals off the factory subwoofer channel. Otherwise, the factory DSP will have already removes most of the bass frequencies and there won't be much left to amplify.

That's all you need. Cut those wires and use them for your signal. It will be a moderately amplified signal, but nothing to worry about. You'll run those speaker level wires into the line converter. It's a mono signal, so don't worry about left or right when tying into the line converter ... which just steps the signal into an RCA signal suitable for an amp input. I'd use something like the Scosche LOC90, as it also gives me a remote signal that I can run to the amp.

So, for car audio, that's all you need to do. Grab those sub audio lines, run them into your line converter, run the RCA cables into your amp input, and then run the amp's speaker outs to your new aftermarket sub. Connect your amp to your battery using 8 ga OFC or 4 ga CCA (assuming a smallish 200-400 W RMS). Find a nearby ground for the amp. Connect a proper remote turn on for the amp (some can also use the speaker signal as a turn on). That's all the car audio stuff.

The rest is just mechanical and has nothing to do with car audio. For example, you have to run a thick power cable from your battery back to your amp. That has nothing to do with understanding car audio. It's just figuring out how to run the cable, where to punch through the firewall, how to run cables under sill plates, etc.

Reusing the factory enclosure is also mechanical. Disconnect the sub wiring by disconnecting the wiring harness I mentioned above. Remove the bolts that hold the factory sub enclosure in place and drag it out of your truck. You may have to finesse the new speaker into the factory sub cutout. Also go to walmart's crafts section and grab a bag of Polyfil (synthetic pillow filling batting). Stuff that into factory enclosure.

Follow one of about 974 available online subwoofer wiring diagrams to properly wire your aftermarket sub ... depending on SVC, DVC, and desired impedance. Most people shoot for a 2 Ohm load onto the amp. So, depending on the number of speakers, coils, etc., you will wire your speakers in various configurations. You don't need to become an electrical engineer and learn about the nuances of parallel vs serial resistances; just pick the scenario you want and wire according to the diagram. Here's a good place to start.

Anyway, this is the beauty of the mod. If you stay simple (single 8" sub, reusing factory enclosure), it's a fairly easy $300-$400 mod that will improve your audio by 10x. Again, too many people tend to think subs are for 16 year old kids driving crappy hatchbacks around the block. Nope. They make all music sound fuller, deeper, and just plain better.

 

If the Super Dutys are wired like the F150 there is a plug behind the rear seat to use with harness WPT1212. I was told by the dealer the factory Kicker sub wouldve worked in my F250, but I'll be doing something on my own this coming spring.

I'm guessing whatever came stock with your system operates off that plug.