302 knocks
thanks
Adam
The block will be fine if it's just a rod or main bearing knock, but if it's a wrist pin knock it could be toast.
When the engine is running start pulling plug wires off the cap. When you come to the affected cylinder it will either stop knocking or get worse. If it gets worse it's a rod knock, if it stops it's a loose fitting wrist pin.
The other possibility is a sticking wrist pin, which the plug wire test will not pinpoint and will trash your block and possibly a head. The cause of a sticking wrist pin is from debri in the oil getting caught in the pin bore. This will make the piston to stick in one position instead of rocking as the piston moves up and down. It will egg shape a bore in a hurry.
If it's a rod knock a 'simple' teardown and inspection will tell you if you need the crank or rod resized. New bearings are a given.
If it is a loose wrist pin you can just remove the one piston and replace. It's possible to just fit a new pin to the piston, but a new piston and pin may be cheaper anyway. However, if it's a broken wrist pin...It's a crap shoot! (count on a lot of damage)
I have a loose wrist pin on the 'pit' and have been told a number of times that if I replace just the bad one, another may show up shortly after. So, I'm researching and picking my parts for a new build while it sits. This time I'm going with a new block (from Summit) and either going to build a new 302 or a 327 (leaning toward the 327). I don't want the 347 for ring land issues and I want to keep the 4" bore of the new block.




