2017 Platinum replacing stock audio system
Goals:
- Replace the stock system with a fairly decent setup that is better all around. I listen to pretty much every type of music, but primarily Rock and Heavy Metal. I guess my main requirement is to feel a solid bass drum thump in my chest. The stock system (Sync 3 Sony amplified with sub) just doesn't cut it.
- Remove the factory sub and amp.
- Wireless connection to DSP.
- Use factory wiring for the front and rear speakers.
- Keep factory HU, do not loose the factory chimes and sounds, nav, phone etc.
- Speakers fit in the stock locations without modification (brackets ok, must maintain stock appearance).
- Rear seats must fold all the way up and lock. (Ok with putting subs under rear seat, but prefer behind seat to keep the under seat storage)
- Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 and AFO2 wiring harness for the DSP (Might return this in favor of the PAC Amp Pro / DSP with optical input based on comments thus far)
- JL Audio 900/5 Amp (100W RMS to the front and rears 500W to the sub(s))
- Front Speakers (Leaning toward Focal Performance PS 165FX)
- Rear Speakers (Leaning toward Focal PC 165F)
- Sub options (Leaning toward JL Audio Stealthbox)
- DSP options (more research to do, optical input / configuration via tablet / phone (wireless) desired)
Thoughts? Anything else I should be considering?
Goals:
- Replace the stock system with a fairly decent setup that is better all around. I listen to pretty much every type of music, but primarily Rock and Heavy Metal. I guess my main requirement is to feel a solid bass drum thump in my chest. The stock system (Sync 3 Sony amplified with sub) just doesn't cut it.
- Remove the factory sub and amp.
- Wireless connection to DSP.
- Use factory wiring for the front and rear speakers.
- Keep factory HU, do not loose the factory chimes and sounds, nav, phone etc.
- Speakers fit in the stock locations without modification (brackets ok, must maintain stock appearance).
- Rear seats must fold all the way up and lock. (Ok with putting subs under rear seat, but prefer behind seat to keep the under seat storage)
- Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 and AFO2 wiring harness for the DSP
- JL Audio 900/5 Amp (100W RMS to the front and rears 500W to the sub(s))
- Front Speakers (Leaning toward Focal Performance PS 165FX)
- Rear Speakers (Leaning toward Focal PC 165F)
- Sub options (Leaning toward JL Audio Stealthbox)
Thoughts? Anything else I should be considering?
Take a look at the MTI Acoustics boxes for your truck. I picked up the behind the seat one for a single JL Audio 13TW5 and it pounds plenty. I just want to relive my youth and have a stereo that hurts my chest again when it plays while still keeping my under seat storage.
Take a look at the MTI Acoustics boxes for your truck. I picked up the behind the seat one for a single JL Audio 13TW5 and it pounds plenty. I just want to relive my youth and have a stereo that hurts my chest again when it plays while still keeping my under seat storage.
The MSI box is interesting. Seats fold all the way up without issue? Have you played the sub with the seats up? How is the install of the box? Do you have to grind the body bolts off? Do you have any pics?
Thanks for posting.
The MSI box is interesting. Seats fold all the way up without issue? Have you played the sub with the seats up? How is the install of the box? Do you have to grind the body bolts off? Do you have any pics?
Thanks for posting.
Here's my MTI box. I didn't want to cut the rear carpet so I removed it. I'm going to see if I can figure a way to build a custom box that will hold two of those TW5s without having to move the seat forward. I'll be laying down sound deadening throughout the entire cab (doors are already done) once I figure out if I can do the bigger box.
.
https://stereointegrity.com/product/...-12-subwoofer/
Have you listened to the Focals? To my ears they tend to be on the bright side. The Morel Temp Ultra 692 6x9 component speakers are a little more laid back:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210TU6...692.html?tp=91
I'm not sure if this will work with the PAC Amp Pro, but this processor is very well regarded:
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/h.../p-six-dsp-mk2
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https://stereointegrity.com/product/...-12-subwoofer/
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Here's my MTI box. I didn't want to cut the rear carpet so I removed it. I'm going to see if I can figure a way to build a custom box that will hold two of those TW5s without having to move the seat forward. I'll be laying down sound deadening throughout the entire cab (doors are already done) once I figure out if I can do the bigger box.
.
Or, a simpler and much cleaner way would be to return the HD900 amp and look into one of the JL VXi amps.
This way all you’ll have to do is run one optical cable from the PAC Amp Pro into the VXi and hook up the speakers via the speaker harnesses that come with the amp.
Clean, clean, sound with no RCA’s or secondary outboard DSP because it’s built into the amp. All digital my friend.
In closing and excluding the Bluetooth accessory for the DM 608, the JL TwK will eat the Audio Control DM 608’s lunch and come back for seconds. Lol.
Goals:
- Replace the stock system with a fairly decent setup that is better all around. I listen to pretty much every type of music, but primarily Rock and Heavy Metal. I guess my main requirement is to feel a solid bass drum thump in my chest. The stock system (Sync 3 Sony amplified with sub) just doesn't cut it.
- Remove the factory sub and amp.
- Wireless connection to DSP.
- Use factory wiring for the front and rear speakers.
- Keep factory HU, do not loose the factory chimes and sounds, nav, phone etc.
- Speakers fit in the stock locations without modification (brackets ok, must maintain stock appearance).
- Rear seats must fold all the way up and lock. (Ok with putting subs under rear seat, but prefer behind seat to keep the under seat storage)
- Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 and AFO2 wiring harness for the DSP (Might return this in favor of the PAC Amp Pro / DSP with optical input based on comments thus far)
- JL Audio 900/5 Amp (100W RMS to the front and rears 500W to the sub(s))
- Front Speakers (Leaning toward Focal Performance PS 165FX)
- Rear Speakers (Leaning toward Focal PC 165F)
- Sub options (Leaning toward JL Audio Stealthbox)
- DSP options (more research to do, optical input / configuration via tablet / phone (wireless) desired)
Thoughts? Anything else I should be considering?
I did Focal PS165FXE in the front doors and Focal PC165FE in the rear doors. Replaced the tweeters in the pillars with the Focal from the PS165FXE. I used a JL VX600/6i amp and ran one speaker per channel so I had level, EQ and time control.
JL non powered micro sub behind drivers side rear seat that is two ported 8" drivers and powered it with an Audiocontrol LC-1.800 amp.
I wanted to limit the parts needed and blow myself out of the seat when when Lemmy hollered at me. I was successful in limiting parts but I am not blown away. The JL amp takes care of the hi/low conversion as well as DSP and EQ functions
just fine. I do not like to sound the focals produce as it is harsh and lacks force. I have setup different profiles and a tap of the remote mounted inside the console switches between them. Turn the same dial to adjust sub level to allow one remote
again limiting parts. I am going to move to the Focal ES165KX2 but $1,300 for speakers is brutal. I cant pump in more power as they start to stink a bit with what they are fed now. I did lose the chimes from the speakers due to having an amp
so the radio cant "see" the speakers any longer. The chimes now come from the cluster only. The sub is "ok" but I wont put a sub under the seat as I need that space so it must go behind the seat. The two 8" are not slackers by any means but
I have had W7 drivers and several thousand watts before so my personal yard stick I fear is skewed. For the space the subs use and the output they can produce they are a good buy. It took playing with the eq and levels to get them at their best.
The JL TUN software is not bad and JL puts out tons of videos on it. I have a calibrated mic from Audiocontrol I use with RTA software to make adjustments the SA-4100. I am sure I have left some performance on the table due to the level of
control in the JL amp but I am at the limits of my current skill with their software and not having a full scale RTA to use.





