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2017 Platinum replacing stock audio system

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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 01:01 PM
  #1  
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2017 Platinum replacing stock audio system

Been quite awhile since I've done an audio install, but I feel like I'm headed in the right direction thanks to all the posts I've read over the last few weeks.

Goals:
  1. Replace the stock system with a fairly decent setup that is better all around. I listen to pretty much every type of music, but primarily Rock and Heavy Metal. I guess my main requirement is to feel a solid bass drum thump in my chest. The stock system (Sync 3 Sony amplified with sub) just doesn't cut it.
  2. Remove the factory sub and amp.
  3. Wireless connection to DSP.
  4. Use factory wiring for the front and rear speakers.
  5. Keep factory HU, do not loose the factory chimes and sounds, nav, phone etc.
  6. Speakers fit in the stock locations without modification (brackets ok, must maintain stock appearance).
  7. Rear seats must fold all the way up and lock. (Ok with putting subs under rear seat, but prefer behind seat to keep the under seat storage)
Parts on the way:
  1. Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 and AFO2 wiring harness for the DSP (Might return this in favor of the PAC Amp Pro / DSP with optical input based on comments thus far)
  2. JL Audio 900/5 Amp (100W RMS to the front and rears 500W to the sub(s))
Still considering:
  1. Front Speakers (Leaning toward Focal Performance PS 165FX)
  2. Rear Speakers (Leaning toward Focal PC 165F)
  3. Sub options (Leaning toward JL Audio Stealthbox)
  4. DSP options (more research to do, optical input / configuration via tablet / phone (wireless) desired)
Would like to do a 6x9 component set for the fronts, just not finding anything that looks like it compares to the Focal's. I'd consider the Kappa perfect 900 or Morels if I could get the tweets to fit in the stock location and maintain the factory look.

Thoughts? Anything else I should be considering?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 03:34 PM
  #2  
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From: GA
Originally Posted by LockedOnSync
Been quite awhile since I've done an audio install, but I feel like I'm headed in the right direction thanks to all the posts I've read over the last few weeks.

Goals:
  1. Replace the stock system with a fairly decent setup that is better all around. I listen to pretty much every type of music, but primarily Rock and Heavy Metal. I guess my main requirement is to feel a solid bass drum thump in my chest. The stock system (Sync 3 Sony amplified with sub) just doesn't cut it.
  2. Remove the factory sub and amp.
  3. Wireless connection to DSP.
  4. Use factory wiring for the front and rear speakers.
  5. Keep factory HU, do not loose the factory chimes and sounds, nav, phone etc.
  6. Speakers fit in the stock locations without modification (brackets ok, must maintain stock appearance).
  7. Rear seats must fold all the way up and lock. (Ok with putting subs under rear seat, but prefer behind seat to keep the under seat storage)
Parts on the way:
  1. Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 and AFO2 wiring harness for the DSP
  2. JL Audio 900/5 Amp (100W RMS to the front and rears 500W to the sub(s))
Still considering:
  1. Front Speakers (Leaning toward Focal Performance PS 165FX)
  2. Rear Speakers (Leaning toward Focal PC 165F)
  3. Sub options (Leaning toward JL Audio Stealthbox)
Would like to do a 6x9 component set for the fronts, just not finding anything that looks like it compares to the Focal's. I'd consider the Kappa perfect 900 if I could get the tweets to fit in the stock location and maintain the factory look.

Thoughts? Anything else I should be considering?
The weak link in your setup is the DSR 1.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 04:07 PM
  #3  
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LockedOnSync
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Originally Posted by GABAR
The weak link in your setup is the DSR 1.
Ok why? What’s a better alternative? I’m not opposed to ditching the DSR1 and going a different route.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 06:10 PM
  #4  
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e23barton
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Originally Posted by LockedOnSync
Ok why? What’s a better alternative? I’m not opposed to ditching the DSR1 and going a different route.
A lot of people have had issues with the DSR-1. I have one but I have also been one of the lucky people to have no issues with mine. When I have time to build another box, I will be upgrading my amps (JL Audio HD900/5 to AudioControl D-4.800 and LC-1.800) and pulling the DSR-1 out in favor or the PAC Amp Pro and the better DSP inside the new amp.

Take a look at the MTI Acoustics boxes for your truck. I picked up the behind the seat one for a single JL Audio 13TW5 and it pounds plenty. I just want to relive my youth and have a stereo that hurts my chest again when it plays while still keeping my under seat storage.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 07:00 PM
  #5  
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From: Southern Maryland
Originally Posted by e23barton
A lot of people have had issues with the DSR-1. I have one but I have also been one of the lucky people to have no issues with mine. When I have time to build another box, I will be upgrading my amps (JL Audio HD900/5 to AudioControl D-4.800 and LC-1.800) and pulling the DSR-1 out in favor or the PAC Amp Pro and the better DSP inside the new amp.

Take a look at the MTI Acoustics boxes for your truck. I picked up the behind the seat one for a single JL Audio 13TW5 and it pounds plenty. I just want to relive my youth and have a stereo that hurts my chest again when it plays while still keeping my under seat storage.
Sounds like I’ll be returning the DSR-1 in favor of a PAC Amp Pro and some other DSP. Will probably add the optical option to the PAC unit. Will need a DSP that takes optical input.

The MSI box is interesting. Seats fold all the way up without issue? Have you played the sub with the seats up? How is the install of the box? Do you have to grind the body bolts off? Do you have any pics?

Thanks for posting.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 07:37 PM
  #6  
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by LockedOnSync
Sounds like I’ll be returning the DSR-1 in favor of a PAC Amp Pro and some other DSP. Will probably add the optical option to the PAC unit. Will need a DSP that takes optical input.

The MSI box is interesting. Seats fold all the way up without issue? Have you played the sub with the seats up? How is the install of the box? Do you have to grind the body bolts off? Do you have any pics?

Thanks for posting.
With the MTI box, the seats fold up and click into place but I'd advice against playing the sub with the seat up...it would most definitely hit the back of the seat. The custom box i made before hand was the same way and I fiberglassed it to fit against the rear wall as tightly as possible. If you need to play the system with the seats up, it's going to be real hard to put a box back there, the 13TW5 is less than 3" deep and there is hardly anything that is shallower out there. A user on here made a box with two 8" Kickers that worked if I remember correctly...I believe their name was tuc_lai or something close to that if you do a search

Here's my MTI box. I didn't want to cut the rear carpet so I removed it. I'm going to see if I can figure a way to build a custom box that will hold two of those TW5s without having to move the seat forward. I'll be laying down sound deadening throughout the entire cab (doors are already done) once I figure out if I can do the bigger box.

.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 01:02 AM
  #7  
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I'm going to try and get this subwoofer behind the seat - Stereo Integrity BM MKV needs 3.4" mounting depth.
https://stereointegrity.com/product/...-12-subwoofer/

Have you listened to the Focals? To my ears they tend to be on the bright side. The Morel Temp Ultra 692 6x9 component speakers are a little more laid back:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210TU6...692.html?tp=91

I'm not sure if this will work with the PAC Amp Pro, but this processor is very well regarded:
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/h.../p-six-dsp-mk2
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 07:02 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by TheLex
I'm going to try and get this subwoofer behind the seat - Stereo Integrity BM MKV needs 3.4" mounting depth.
https://stereointegrity.com/product/...-12-subwoofer/
Wow, that thing looks like a beast. Website says it's discontinued though.

Originally Posted by Have you listened to the Focals? To my ears they tend to be on the bright side. The Morel Temp Ultra 692 6x9 component speakers are a little more laid back:
[url
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210TU692/Morel-Tempo-Ultra-692.html?tp=91
I have not listened to the Focals yet. I would also consider these Morel's, but I'm concerned that the tweets might be too big to fit in the stock location. Anyone manage to fit these without noticeable modification?

Originally Posted by I'm not sure if this will work with the PAC Amp Pro, but this processor is very well regarded:
[url
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/p-six-dsp-mk2
I don't intend to replace my amp. If I do, I would probably just go up to the vxi series amps. I spent some time last night researching the PAC Amp Pro / DSP options. Right now I'm looking into the AudioControl units, specifically the DM-608. Looks like it has the optical input, and I can add a bluetooth interface (AC-BT24)
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 07:09 AM
  #9  
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I agree with the other guy, I wouldnt play the sub with the seat folded up. I opted to bite the bullet and cut the carpet. I still have to move the factory amp out of site yet, which wont be hard.

 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 07:14 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by e23barton
With the MTI box, the seats fold up and click into place but I'd advice against playing the sub with the seat up...it would most definitely hit the back of the seat. The custom box i made before hand was the same way and I fiberglassed it to fit against the rear wall as tightly as possible. If you need to play the system with the seats up, it's going to be real hard to put a box back there, the 13TW5 is less than 3" deep and there is hardly anything that is shallower out there. A user on here made a box with two 8" Kickers that worked if I remember correctly...I believe their name was tuc_lai or something close to that if you do a search

Here's my MTI box. I didn't want to cut the rear carpet so I removed it. I'm going to see if I can figure a way to build a custom box that will hold two of those TW5s without having to move the seat forward. I'll be laying down sound deadening throughout the entire cab (doors are already done) once I figure out if I can do the bigger box.
.
Man, this is going to make deciding on a sub option difficult. Thanks for posting a picture, it gives me a much better idea what that box looks like. I like that it's behind the seat, but saw a video that showed what it looks like when the seat is folded up, and it made me cringe a bit. That seat gets flush with the box! If I go this route, it's good that its on the pass seat side since I probably just avoid folding that seat up altogether. I doubt I'll go the 2 - 8" route, but 2 - 10" maybe. I wonder if the 2 - 10" option from MTI leaves room for the Sony amp to stay in place. Does the MTI box bolt in, or is it just sitting in there?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 07:21 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Spooledsrt
I agree with the other guy, I wouldnt play the sub with the seat folded up. I opted to bite the bullet and cut the carpet. I still have to move the factory amp out of site yet, which wont be hard.
I would probably cut my carpet as well. I'd want to free up all the space I could in there and it looks really nice with the rest of the carpet back in. Thanks for posting the pictures. I can clearly see that the Sony amp needs to be moved to accommodate the box.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 09:15 AM
  #12  
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jl audio micro sub 8s. had to cut the carpet and it is a tight fit to get the seat folded up. my truck is a supercab. coaxial focals up front
 
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Old Dec 24, 2019 | 07:57 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by LockedOnSync
Ok why? What’s a better alternative? I’m not opposed to ditching the DSR1 and going a different route.
I’d suggest the PAC Amp Pro and a JL Audio TwK88.

Or, a simpler and much cleaner way would be to return the HD900 amp and look into one of the JL VXi amps.

This way all you’ll have to do is run one optical cable from the PAC Amp Pro into the VXi and hook up the speakers via the speaker harnesses that come with the amp.

Clean, clean, sound with no RCA’s or secondary outboard DSP because it’s built into the amp. All digital my friend.

In closing and excluding the Bluetooth accessory for the DM 608, the JL TwK will eat the Audio Control DM 608’s lunch and come back for seconds. Lol.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2021 | 10:35 PM
  #14  
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Amp

[QUOTE=Spooledsrt;19013846]I agree with the other guy, I wouldnt play the sub with the seat folded up. I opted to bite the bullet and cut the carpet. I still have to move the factory amp out of site yet, which wont be hard.

Hey I am looking into getting this setup, how did you wire the sub? We’re you able to use the factory amp or did you go with a new amp separate just for the sub?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 04:05 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by LockedOnSync
Been quite awhile since I've done an audio install, but I feel like I'm headed in the right direction thanks to all the posts I've read over the last few weeks.

Goals:
  1. Replace the stock system with a fairly decent setup that is better all around. I listen to pretty much every type of music, but primarily Rock and Heavy Metal. I guess my main requirement is to feel a solid bass drum thump in my chest. The stock system (Sync 3 Sony amplified with sub) just doesn't cut it.
  2. Remove the factory sub and amp.
  3. Wireless connection to DSP.
  4. Use factory wiring for the front and rear speakers.
  5. Keep factory HU, do not loose the factory chimes and sounds, nav, phone etc.
  6. Speakers fit in the stock locations without modification (brackets ok, must maintain stock appearance).
  7. Rear seats must fold all the way up and lock. (Ok with putting subs under rear seat, but prefer behind seat to keep the under seat storage)
Parts on the way:
  1. Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 and AFO2 wiring harness for the DSP (Might return this in favor of the PAC Amp Pro / DSP with optical input based on comments thus far)
  2. JL Audio 900/5 Amp (100W RMS to the front and rears 500W to the sub(s))
Still considering:
  1. Front Speakers (Leaning toward Focal Performance PS 165FX)
  2. Rear Speakers (Leaning toward Focal PC 165F)
  3. Sub options (Leaning toward JL Audio Stealthbox)
  4. DSP options (more research to do, optical input / configuration via tablet / phone (wireless) desired)
Would like to do a 6x9 component set for the fronts, just not finding anything that looks like it compares to the Focal's. I'd consider the Kappa perfect 900 or Morels if I could get the tweets to fit in the stock location and maintain the factory look.

Thoughts? Anything else I should be considering?

I did Focal PS165FXE in the front doors and Focal PC165FE in the rear doors. Replaced the tweeters in the pillars with the Focal from the PS165FXE. I used a JL VX600/6i amp and ran one speaker per channel so I had level, EQ and time control.
JL non powered micro sub behind drivers side rear seat that is two ported 8" drivers and powered it with an Audiocontrol LC-1.800 amp.

I wanted to limit the parts needed and blow myself out of the seat when when Lemmy hollered at me. I was successful in limiting parts but I am not blown away. The JL amp takes care of the hi/low conversion as well as DSP and EQ functions
just fine. I do not like to sound the focals produce as it is harsh and lacks force. I have setup different profiles and a tap of the remote mounted inside the console switches between them. Turn the same dial to adjust sub level to allow one remote
again limiting parts. I am going to move to the Focal ES165KX2 but $1,300 for speakers is brutal. I cant pump in more power as they start to stink a bit with what they are fed now. I did lose the chimes from the speakers due to having an amp
so the radio cant "see" the speakers any longer. The chimes now come from the cluster only. The sub is "ok" but I wont put a sub under the seat as I need that space so it must go behind the seat. The two 8" are not slackers by any means but
I have had W7 drivers and several thousand watts before so my personal yard stick I fear is skewed. For the space the subs use and the output they can produce they are a good buy. It took playing with the eq and levels to get them at their best.
The JL TUN software is not bad and JL puts out tons of videos on it. I have a calibrated mic from Audiocontrol I use with RTA software to make adjustments the SA-4100. I am sure I have left some performance on the table due to the level of
control in the JL amp but I am at the limits of my current skill with their software and not having a full scale RTA to use.

 
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