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Ice In Motor.....and transmission woes

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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 01:45 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by irhunter
I would definitely warm it up (which you've done), roll the motor over by hand with the plugs out. See if that produces any water out of the plug holes. Then, I would report back here, and think about things some more.

I have no idea about the contention that the pistons will force out so much water (out of the plug holes) that hydrolocking is "impossible." I do know the results of hydrolocking are the real deal...all sorts of expensive stuff can be bent or broken. If you lock this motor, you will be wishing you borrowed, built, bought, or rented a motor stand...and, flipped her upside down.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-l...and-69522.html


Roy
Well, the dripping has stopped and the air coming out of the glow plug holes was actually pretty hot so I removed the heater and went to crank it by hand and it wont budge. Granted - I'm not going insane with it but pretty sure I'm using enough pressure. Similar to what I used to get it to start moving the other day... Looks like I'm getting an engine stand! Wish the site would tell me if it's at the store - about an hour drive from my house. Have a few other tools I wouldn't mind picking up... Maybe I'll give them a call after posting.

*EDIT*
Just got off the phone with the closest store and they have a stand and the endoscopic camera in stock. Only one stand so hopefully I can make it there in time. Have to wait for a friend to drop off his car for some brake work before I can leave...

Originally Posted by tjc transport
those little 5.5mm endoscope cameras are really nice to have, even if they only get used once a year.


personally i would put the turbo on. comparing a properly tuned IDI with turbo to a NA IDI is like a 460 to a six cylinder
For sure. I'll be calling the "local" Harbor Freight here in a few minutes and I see they have one listed on their site so if they have it in-store and I make the trip I'll probably be picking up one of those as well for future use.

And Turbo it is! haha
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 01:49 PM
  #17  
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A healthy NA really isn't that bad, unless you're comparing it to newer stuff which seems to happen alot. That being said since you have all the turbo stuff you mine as well swap it all over. Your kit is probably the most popular preferred one, although they all perform roughly the same.

At half throttle with the turbo I'm putting down the same power as I was NA, that is a pretty big difference and because of that my fuel economy has been better. I've still yet to actually calculate it but I swear I rarely have to put diesel in it now compared to before, and I have a few injectors that aren't up to par efficiency wise.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 05:54 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by DarkOverCast
A healthy NA really isn't that bad, unless you're comparing it to newer stuff which seems to happen alot. That being said since you have all the turbo stuff you mine as well swap it all over. Your kit is probably the most popular preferred one, although they all perform roughly the same.

At half throttle with the turbo I'm putting down the same power as I was NA, that is a pretty big difference and because of that my fuel economy has been better. I've still yet to actually calculate it but I swear I rarely have to put diesel in it now compared to before, and I have a few injectors that aren't up to par efficiency wise.
Interesting! I'm believing more and more that my old IDIT was just a bad motor... Definitely swapping the turbo over after what all of you have said. Plus with the latest developments its not going to be a quick in and out like I was expecting/hoping so might as well take the time and do it now!

SO - $544 later I'm home with the engine stand and endoscope. Also picked up a few new tools - can never leave there with ONLY what I went for! Among them a pair of the biggest channel locks they had for getting that dang fan off. One of the blades was bent when I got it - had always been planning on swapping all the accessories from the 94 over anyway but my channel locks I have now can get on the nut but spread far enough that I can't grip and all and keep a firm hold on the nut...

Now not sure if I want to go out and at least assembly and get the motor on it tonight or just start fresh tomorrow. That 3 hours of driving kind of took the wind out of my motivation.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 06:38 PM
  #19  
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that Fan Clutch Nut is LH thread ,,, a Wrench to fit the nut with a sharp Hammer slap will loosen it.

IF ya can't rotate the engine then some WD-40 might be a good Idea. then rock it back and forth until it Frees up... they pretty hard to rotate by hand even with the GP's out. but with all the plugs out you should be able to rotate it with a breaker bar on the Balancer nut.

IF you have the adapter that holds the starter you could install a starter with the Fields Removed and turn it by hand by rotating the Starter Armature... Just saying
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 07:06 PM
  #20  
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Let me put it this way... IF the engine is locked and cannot be rotated by hand and you Decide to Install a starter Via the engine adapter and try to crank it with Battery power then there is a Good chance you could snap the engine adapter.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 08:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
that Fan Clutch Nut is LH thread ,,, a Wrench to fit the nut with a sharp Hammer slap will loosen it.

IF ya can't rotate the engine then some WD-40 might be a good Idea. then rock it back and forth until it Frees up... they pretty hard to rotate by hand even with the GP's out. but with all the plugs out you should be able to rotate it with a breaker bar on the Balancer nut.

IF you have the adapter that holds the starter you could install a starter with the Fields Removed and turn it by hand by rotating the Starter Armature... Just saying
Thanks! I actually just got it off before coming inside. It wasn't that bad once I got everything braced up - I just didn't have anything big enough before to get proper grip on the nut. I now have a comically large pair of channel locks in my tool collection. haha

I put some WD-40 in the holes this morning when I got up (Also just did again when I was out in the shop). I just came in from putting the engine stand together to realize I don't have long enough bolts to mount the engine to it... Dang! But at least its ready to go... When I was out there I moved the cherry picker/motor to a different spot in the shop and I don't know if it was the jostling of the motor while moving or what - but a few drips of water started coming out of the motor again...

The motor DOES have the starter adapter! I was actually debating just a bit ago if I should bolt the flywheel back on and try rocking the motor using that since the crank bolt only lets me go one way. Nifty starter trick though! I might have to give that a try! I'm honestly concerned I'm going to shear the bolt or strip the hole as when I start putting a little extra effort into moving it I can see the socket start moving but the balancer/pulley
do not - so I stop.

Originally Posted by lonewolf_
Let me put it this way... IF the engine is locked and cannot be rotated by hand and you Decide to Install a starter Via the engine adapter and try to crank it with Battery power then there is a Good chance you could snap the engine adapter.
EEK! BAD TIME! I mean - I have another one but I'd rather not break parts unnecessarily!
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 08:43 PM
  #22  
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they make Barring tools for a lot of diesel engines but I have never seen one for our Ford engines (search Barring Tool) I posted an Idea a while back to Modify a junked starter into a Barring tool for our trucks... it's just a matter of having a junk starter to play with ... lock the bendix in place and use the reduction of the starter .. a little imagination and it is easily understood
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 08:59 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
they make Barring tools for a lot of diesel engines but I have never seen one for our Ford engines (search Barring Tool) I posted an Idea a while back to Modify a junked starter into a Barring tool for our trucks... it's just a matter of having a junk starter to play with ... lock the bendix in place and use the reduction of the starter .. a little imagination and it is easily understood
Nifty! I actually have probably 2 or 3 spare starters for these motors laying around - one of which is definitely junk. It was sitting in the back of my 88 when I got it. Hmmm!

Also I've been trying to get this camera to work ever since I came inside... Not sure if its still too cold or what but when I try to power it up the screen just flashes for a second and then dead. Trying to look up any troubleshooting for it has been a no-go so far.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 10:02 PM
  #24  
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What Camera ... from Harbor Fright ?
the ebay ones are just Plug-N-Pray but work fine.. but if you use them on a laptop sometimes you need to disable the built in Laptop Camera

they generally come with a Driver CD too... but I've never had to use the driver CD
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 03:10 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
What Camera ... from Harbor Fright ?
the ebay ones are just Plug-N-Pray but work fine.. but if you use them on a laptop sometimes you need to disable the built in Laptop Camera

they generally come with a Driver CD too... but I've never had to use the driver CD
Yeah - the Harbor Freight one. It's an "Ames technologies" camera... Came inside from working on my friends car just now and the thing wont even flash the screen anymore....
Hmm...
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 08:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Keymo
Yeah - the Harbor Freight one. It's an "Ames technologies" camera... Came inside from working on my friends car just now and the thing wont even flash the screen anymore....
Hmm...
HF will replace it no problem but I understand it's a PIA for you to make that Trip....

not much troubleshooting for it....


it sounds like it has a loose connection inside the unit... maybe a bad solder joint.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 10:03 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
HF will replace it no problem but I understand it's a PIA for you to make that Trip....

not much troubleshooting for it....


it sounds like it has a loose connection inside the unit... maybe a bad solder joint.
Yeah - I found similar results... Tried several different sets of batteries - the last set out of a device that was already working fine so I'd say its probably not the batteries... Like you said - most likely a bad solder or connection. Guess I'll have to make some time to head back down there. It IS a PIA but at the same time at about $100 spent for the whole set up it'd be worth it to get something that actually works! Oh well! Makes me think I probably should've just ordered one of those amazon units! Ah, hindsight....

Didn't do anything with the motor today -other than giving it a little more PB down the glow plug holes. Was really nice out so figured I'd take advantage of it and did some stuff outside around the property and washed a few vehicles. Thinking I'll try and make that barring tool this week if I can. I'll have Christmas day off with no plans - so might be a good day to try and get it done - maybe even make some progress on getting the motor freed up.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2019 | 08:29 AM
  #28  
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Well, guys.... We did it! The motor is freed up.

Per lonewolf_'s suggestion I took an old starter that'd been sitting in the back of my 88 since I got it and pulled it apart, removed the fields and bearing off the back end, cut slots in the end of a 1/2" socket and fitted it over the tailshaft and welded it on. Then I pulled apart the nose piece and welded the bendix into the engagement position and then tacked the back side of the teeth to the clutch plate so it wouldn't free spin when trying to rotate the motor backwards. Put it all together and re-installed the flywheel and starter onto the motor.

I found that there where two spots - which I marked on the flywheel where the motor would stick. Then would completely rotate it from one spot to the other - each of them would sort of gurgle and would see rusty fluid start to accumulate under the piston. I repeated the process for a couple hours - yeah, lots of fun - and after about the first hour I found that I could rotate the flywheel a little more and more past my marks and was getting a little water out of the passenger side exhaust... By the second hour I was getting full rotations in both directions with mild resistance. a few full turns of the motor later and the resistance was almost unnoticeable. At that point I uninstalled the starter and started turning it over with the crank pulley bolt. I could notice a little more resistance a slight "gurgle" in the spots I was getting at the flywheel so I sprayed a little more PB in each cylinder and kept rotating until it all felt relatively the same. Then I turned up my cranking speed and listened and then felt over each glowplug hole and the compression "seemed" to be pretty strong and maybe consistent? The gurgle/sputtering sounds also slowly seemed to fade the more/faster I cranked.

Anyway - she turns "easily" with the breaker bar now. Got home from work at about 4AM and 4.5hrs later with about 2.5-3hrs of just sitting there cranking the motor over. Whew... what a morning.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2019 | 09:22 AM
  #29  
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Good Job

yeah on that Starter Barring tool Mod... locking the bendix is spot on... the other thing I had planned on it was possibly cutting the Armature and welding a socket on the shaft piece .. also would have to figure out a Bushing plate to go across it to hold the Armature shaft in so it don't fall out.


Merry Christmas
 
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Old Dec 24, 2019 | 11:44 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
Good Job

yeah on that Starter Barring tool Mod... locking the bendix is spot on... the other thing I had planned on it was possibly cutting the Armature and welding a socket on the shaft piece .. also would have to figure out a Bushing plate to go across it to hold the Armature shaft in so it don't fall out.


Merry Christmas
Thank you sir!! I really appreciate you telling me about that. Definitely wouldn't have been able to free it up - or not near as quickly without it!

I can see keeping the armature if you had like a locking pin or something so you could also disengage it - which would actually be pretty nice! Something I found when I'd move to the crank bolt with the bendix locked and starter still installed it would put a lot of drag on the motor and even locked up on me one time. I uninstalled the starter and kept moving and it was fine. Ended up uninstalling and reinstalling twice to check things... Another thing I noticed with the reduction was that it was so easy to crank the motor that when trying from the crank you found tough spots that almost felt like nothing at the flywheel! But no big deal with a little patience.

Just came in from getting the motor on the engine stand, flipping it (kinda scary) and cleaning surfaces and reinstalling the painted oil pan! Also before reinstalling I cranked the motor while it was upside down and a lot of dark liquid came out a few GP holes!

Merry Christmas to you too!!! Thank you!

 
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