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Quick question: Should I also put assembly lube on the side body of the lifters when installing, or just the bottom (cam side), and just oil up the sides of the lifter body upon installation?
Thanks,
If you don't already know why are you arguing the point ?
Not arguing, just trying to figure out what you are talking about I guess. I must have missed that decade where FORD released an adjustable hydraulic valve-train on an FE.
Were you with SVT or HOLMAN-MOODY and privileged to inside information or do I have to dig out my hip boots again??
I have to keep the same pushrods to match the rockers I presume.
Lay the push-rods out in the order of dis-assembly for correct assembly. They come in STD, U/S and O/S to effectively set valve lash/plunger depth. The lifter foot has to have a convex surface. If if is flat, it is worn out. I would use assembly lube on the foot and engine oil on the shanks. They have to go in the same lifter more as they came out of.
Not arguing, just trying to figure out what you are talking about I guess. I must have missed that decade where FORD released an adjustable hydraulic valve-train on an FE.
Were you with SVT or HOLMAN-MOODY and privileged to inside information or do I have to dig out my hip boots again??
Anyone who's run FE's knows you can gain a little lift by running the factory adjustable rockers on a hydraulic cam. I guess you didn't know this. And while I never worked for either, I did run a Holman-Moody Bonneville cam in my 427. So get out your hip waders if you want. You lost this one.
Quick question: Should I also put assembly lube on the side body of the lifters when installing, or just the bottom (cam side), and just oil up the sides of the lifter body upon installation?
Thanks,
Oil on the sides, a thin film of lube on the bottoms and cam lobe. You don't want the lobe to lose traction on the lifter and prevent it from rotating in it's bore. Lube on the sides could prevent rotation.
Lay the push-rods out in the order of dis-assembly for correct assembly. They come in STD, U/S and O/S to effectively set valve lash/plunger depth. The lifter foot has to have a convex surface. If if is flat, it is worn out. I would use assembly lube on the foot and engine oil on the shanks. They have to go in the same lifter more as they came out of.
Do you have a SHOP MANUAL? Why are you replacing?
Yes I bought one recently and it's a combined volume type.
I was replacing the lifters since the truck sat for 15yrs.
Might as well in case oil crud buildup etc.
But the new Summit lifters have a different cup.
So, I guess I'll take the old lifters apart.
-But, I did find out someone has been in this motor. (.040 pistons and taking the valve cover off, the heads were very clean).
-So as you see in the pics, the lifters (old ones), are pretty good looking etc.
-Second owner from a elderly man who passed and his son let it sit under a tree for 15yrs.
Originally Posted by baddad457
Oil on the sides, a thin film of lube on the bottoms and cam lobe. You don't want the lobe to lose traction on the lifter and prevent it from rotating in it's bore. Lube on the sides could prevent rotation.
Yes I bought one recently and it's a combined volume type.
I was replacing the lifters since the truck sat for 15yrs.
Might as well in case oil crud buildup etc.
Are the lifters/valve-train making any noises? If not, I wouldn't bother . Maybe a can of solvent (SEA-FOAM - MARVEL), run it and put a fresh oil change on it. Those lifters may be fairly recent.
Are the lifters/valve-train making any noises? If not, I wouldn't bother . Maybe a can of solvent (SEA-FOAM - MARVEL), run it and put a fresh oil change on it. Those lifters may be fairly recent.
No noise. Just wanted to clean them before I put them back in.
Question: Can I get the lifters out if the intake is on?
Is there a tool needed for that job?
I used a small telescoping magnet, and they slid right out when I removed the OEM intake.
Just wondering in case I need to in the future.
Thanks again all,
I took the one lifter that I have out of the engine and tried to compress it some by hand and it wouldn’t budge.
I put my weight on it and still no go.
So I grabbed a socket to fit the outer cup and tried to push that way and no go.
-Then I took said socket and put it in a vice and tried to compress the lifter, barely moved and barley any oil came out.
Not even a .032, (32nd) did it move.
Not sure what to do but replace them with the ones I have from Summit.
I took the one lifter that I have out of the engine and tried to compress it some by hand and it wouldn’t budge.
I put my weight on it and still no go.
So I grabbed a socket to fit the outer cup and tried to push that way and no go.
Then I took said socket and put it in a vice and tried to compress the lifter, barely moved and barley any oil came out.
Not even a .032, (32nd) did it move.
Not sure what to do but replace them with the ones I have from Summit.
That lifter is pressurized. There is a special bleed down tool to use but usually if they sit for a while they will release the pressure, just as you might hear lifter noise on a cold start. Also, a reason you do not pressurize lifters before break-in.
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