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When my servo motor broke, it turns out nothing was wrong with the motor itself. There is a braided steel cable that runs in a plastic sheath that runs from the motor to the throttle linkage. At each end of the cable a metal "bead" is crimped on. This is that gets pulled/pushed. At the motor, the bead had come off and the cable end frayed. So the motor could no longer push/pull the cable.
I measured the diameter of the braided cable and ordered some replacement stainless steel braided cable and some crimp beads. I did not want to buy the special crimping tool so I just used my bench vice to crush them into place. Over-crushed the first attempt and ruined the bead so buy some extras in case you mess up. This let me replace the original cable assembly with my fixed one.
Boy howdy the innards of that servo do look bad---never seen on so gunked up. What year van did that come from?
I'm wondering if the electronic "brain" of the servo couldn't be swapped over to a known working servo of the same era and put back into service. Apart from the minor changes in wiring Ford would make to such devices the mechanical portion was the same over the years those were used. For vans I think the cable pulled throttle body was replaced by the electronic version in 2005 or so.
It is from a 1999. The servo sits under the coolant reservoir which leaked right on top of the servo. Don't know enough about the "brains" to tell if they have survived to be able to transplant.
I found an aftermarket cruise control, https://www.thecruisecontrolstore.co...it-gas-engine/. It appears that it will work, but don't know enough about this to know if taking a chance would be worth it. I do know that I just did a 1200 mile round trip without cruise and that is not what I want to continue to do. I just bought the van a little over a month ago and am finding a few other little annoyances, like the remote power locks only work occasionally. I'm a diesel guy, but bought this van mainly because of the Quigley 4x4 conversion that it has. It came with the V10, which is should have plenty of power, but she just doesn't get up and go like I think it should. You push down on the pedal and she sounds like she's going like hell, but reality she just crawls along.
It is from a 1999. The servo sits under the coolant reservoir which leaked right on top of the servo. Don't know enough about the "brains" to tell if they have survived to be able to transplant.
I found an aftermarket cruise control, https://www.thecruisecontrolstore.co...it-gas-engine/. It appears that it will work, but don't know enough about this to know if taking a chance would be worth it. I do know that I just did a 1200 mile round trip without cruise and that is not what I want to continue to do. I just bought the van a little over a month ago and am finding a few other little annoyances, like the remote power locks only work occasionally. I'm a diesel guy, but bought this van mainly because of the Quigley 4x4 conversion that it has. It came with the V10, which is should have plenty of power, but she just doesn't get up and go like I think it should. You push down on the pedal and she sounds like she's going like hell, but reality she just crawls along.
Watch this video for a bit of insight into the Ford VSC servo---this might answer your question whether its worth spending a bit of time on your existing parts;
Personally I'd prefer rehabbing what you have over adding the Rosta system but that's just me. I'm sure they work fine, they've been around quite a few years so must be doing something right.
If there's an upside to your situation its that type servo was used for a number of years on both the E- and F-Series so they'll be plentiful in the scrap yards. I was going to suggest thoroughly cleaning and lightly lubricating the gears in your servo but the electrical connector is possibly damaged so that might not be an option. Maybe find another similar servo in the scrap yard, swap the electronic control and pull cable to see if that works.
New parts do seem available with NumberDummy's search results so that too is an option but probably won't be cheap. Upside there is you know it'd be a direct swap and work with the existing controls.
To my mind the Rosta stuff is geared towards vehicles without any sort of factory VSC which is partially the reason I'd shy away from the aftermarket stuff to replace an existing VSC.
On another note if your V10 isn't performing very well maybe drop in on FTE's V10 sub-forum. I've rarely seen anyone complaining and a V10 being down on power even in an E-Series. You might have a minor easily solvable problem to restore some power.
My '94 had a non-functioning servo. I saw the video JWA linked above. Searching a local boneyard revealed a lookalike in an F150. It worked.
Not much later, my set/accel button stopped working. Hard to find switches for a van. That same wrecked F150 had steering wheel buttons that LOOKED the same. Not exactly. A little soldering iron melting of a plastic rib on the backside allowed installation.
I used the motor/gear drive assembly from the F150 and the original control board (servo amplifier) portion from my van. I know nothing about differences in control board/servo programming, so I didn't experiment with the total F150 assembly. My gear drive assembly looked pristine, but the motor wouldn't run. Later, after a few blasts with penetrant, electronics cleaner and some pecking, it came back to life while bench testing. The van had sat for five years.
Not long after, I had intermittent issues that would resolve after cleaning the connector pins at the servo. Finally, I cut off the female connector body, and soldered individual wires to the male pins on the servo, then attached insulated spade connectors to the wires. About three years now of no problems.
I used the motor/gear drive assembly from the F150 and the original control board (servo amplifier) portion from my van.
As I suspected the motor/grear drive portion is common to the type of device, the only real difference being the electronic part of what becomes the full servo assembly as we'd buy new off-the-shelf if they were still available.
Thanks for the info and good fix especially if its still working today.