I don't have a build thread for this because I was told it was a dumb idea 10 years ago by the bronco community so I kept everything on Facebook.

Long story short... I put a 1997 7.3L with all the wiring into a 1996 Bronco. 5 speed ZF5, BW1356 that was originally behind the broncos 351w/E4OD set up.
-custom rear driveshaft
-33 gal stock tank (38 gal upgrade wouldn't fit)
-spliced into the dash harness to swap the fuel selector for the rear tailgate window switch
-intercooled e99 Spyder, CSD pipes, 2001 intercooler
-2006 SD axles, 3.73 gears, running something around a 33" tire


Things that currently don't work:
-power mirrors
-power locks
-Hydra
-any scan tool I hook up

Biggest concern right now is this:
I tried to replace the D/S exhaust manifold and broke bolts in the head. Found a set for $600 from a guy who had receipts for $1400 worth of machine work. Heads checked out all great. I bought new MAHLE head gaskets, ARP studs, and new injector o-rings, new GPR/GPs, 360 turbo rebuild kit. Everything went back together smoothly. Have been working on other things but now that I'm getting near to daily driver status the engine is a bit of a concern.

It cranks for a long while before finally catching. There is constant blue smoke when idling (after the white cold start smoke passes), I have a check engine light on but as stated I can't read it, and I have oil in the exhaust (pre/post turbo).

My gut is telling me that the injectors are on the way out. The engine had 180k when I pulled it from the donor truck. Bottom end was clean (replaced the oil pan gasket), but under the valve covers had some rust from sitting I assume.

If I can find pictures I'll post them.

Thanks in advance. Sorry for the long post.

 

Have you ran a compression test that’s first thing I’d do. Also how long has it run since work and how much have you drove it.

 

I haven't had the chance to run compression test yet.

Since the head swap it's been on 2 test drives about 10 minutes long and I was rather heavy on the throttle.

Other than that it's been idle time from 5-20 minutes for testing cooling and electrical

 

I’d probably run it a little longer honestly it takes while to burn everything out of cylinders. If your concerned I’d definitely pull valve covers off check injector hold downs. And run compression test to rule that out right off the the top of the list.

 

Running the truck hard for 20 minutes should have burnt your residual out of the exhaust. If not go take it for a long 30 minute drive and that will do it. Honestly a few hard pulls around the country road block after up to temp does it for me. It literally is burning out of the inner walls of your exhaust. Cylinders clear within a few seconds of startup.

who did you buy the turbo kit from?

To me it sounds like the exhaust side seal is not seated on the turbo...


blue is oil, even if it were going past the injector rings it would not burn heavily blue. I had a few rings go about ten years ago, 7 qts in 35 miles, 0 blue

 

I got the rebuild kit from riffraff as I always have for the last 2-3 kits. May be in store for another it seems just to be sure then or I'll swap the one off my dually since it's not going anywhere for the winter and that one is a stock with goodies

 

I would be looking at wiring diagrams and finding out how to wire up your obdii port, or a second one, to be able to pull codes. You can wire another one with the engine modules and basically have one port for body modules and a second for engine modules. There is a bunch of good diagnostic stuff you can learn from the computer, and your CEL might not even be related to the 7.3, depending on how its wired.

If you swapped the whole dash harness then disregard, but I'd still be chasing down why the port doesnt work

 

I did swap the entire dash harness and from what my research has told me is that because of the age some scanners don't like to read them so my best bet is an old snapon or an AE. Trying to track down one or the other.


Also here is a video of it running yesterday

 

I've had good luck with my forscan and usb obdii adapter but maybe I'm just lucky

 

When i did my inj orings, it smoked bad like a train for a mile and slowly stopped. I think a ext valve was open and the oil poured into the exhaust since i didnt try to suck it out with a vac.

these engines will run on motor oil (not cold engine oil as it wont atomize well)
if you have ok (not great) compression, it should not smoke unless turbo seals bad
worn valve seals shouldnt make it smoke since the seals always have pressure on them

intake side of turbo will have oil since the vapors go to inlet unless you did doghouse delete

 

There might be some rust in the cylinders, if there was rust under the valve covers ass7me the worst case scenario.
IMO run the truck like you stole it for at least 50 miles straight just to make sure oil has burn off completely and makes the piston rings re seat again.

 

This was the only picture I could find but pretty much every rod looked like this on the top and it was trying to spread to the rockers themselves.

I know I had some similar issues with smoke when I did injector o-rings on my other truck but I didn't remember it being this bad.. it was also daily driven and I remember reading that you had to run it hard to help Purge the air from the oil system

 

Is that corrosion or metal particles magnetically stuck to the push rod?

 

That would be rust and corrosion on the pushrod.

Wire wheel took care of it then I put a thin layer of grease on it

 

Geez that's gross...

Hopefully now they're good for the next 20 years