94' 460 Hot While PLowing
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
94' 460 Hot While PLowing
This Past storm put my 94' F-250 460 to the test at plowing. It's quite apparent that the cooling system needs some provisions to plow as I was constantly having to pull over to let it cool down. The Truck never had any cooling issues without the plow, (an old 8ft fisher straight blade) but due to lack of airflow, it gets really hot both while driving and plowing. The truck is equipped with a 180 thermostat and 2 16" auxiliary electric fans and a newer 2" radiator. I'm also running water wet additive. It also seems to idle really high when hot (I'd imagine the computers way of trying to spin a mechanical fan faster) Any advice to help it run cooler.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Are you noticing any issues with the cabin heat (seems to reduce temp or suddenly get cold without adjusting it)?
Have you been needing to add coolant on a regular basis or noticed any leaks?
With engine hot and the fans running, is there significant temp difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses?
Besides the additive, what type and mixture of coolant are you using?
When is the last time the cooling system was flushed or the coolant replaced?
Have you been needing to add coolant on a regular basis or noticed any leaks?
With engine hot and the fans running, is there significant temp difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses?
Besides the additive, what type and mixture of coolant are you using?
When is the last time the cooling system was flushed or the coolant replaced?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
Are you noticing any issues with the cabin heat (seems to reduce temp or suddenly get cold without adjusting it)?
Have you been needing to add coolant on a regular basis or noticed any leaks?
With engine hot and the fans running, is there significant temp difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses?
Besides the additive, what type and mixture of coolant are you using?
When is the last time the cooling system was flushed or the coolant replaced?
Have you been needing to add coolant on a regular basis or noticed any leaks?
With engine hot and the fans running, is there significant temp difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses?
Besides the additive, what type and mixture of coolant are you using?
When is the last time the cooling system was flushed or the coolant replaced?
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,481
Likes: 5,542
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i had the same problem with a 94 F-Super Duty. overheat with plow on, fine no plow. i solved the issue by adding a set of scoops to the grill that were higher than the top of the plow to divert air down into the grill when plow was on and also ran with plow as low as possible while in transport.
it looked ghetto, but worked great.
it looked ghetto, but worked great.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 47
The best way to cool the engine when driving (not plowing) is to angle the plow. When I had a straight blade, I could watch my temps move by changing the blade angle.
have never had a problem with temps when actually plowing. A quick fix may be to pop the hood just to let more air in while you’re plowing; just don’t forget to shut it tight before you drive away
have never had a problem with temps when actually plowing. A quick fix may be to pop the hood just to let more air in while you’re plowing; just don’t forget to shut it tight before you drive away
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
So considering the 460 has about 100k I thought it may be worth checking out the water pump, upon removal it was obvious that it isn't at all worn out with little corrosion on the inside (I replaced it anyway because I work at an O'Reilly and it was only $50 with my discount). While easily accessible I also replaced the thermostat with a 180 just to be sure. As expected this led to no improvement with the plow. One thing I did notice though is my temperature gauge reading is largely dependant on my voltage reading (the lower the voltage the higher the temperature). If I turned the blower motor and headlights off, the temperature would magically jump from almost overheating to normal. The alternator is new but it is only a 95amp. With the 2, 16" fans and other accessories running I'm sure that the reading is false. Can I remove the temperature sensor in place of a more accurate temperature sensor, or is the temperature sensor essential to the EFI system.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,481
Likes: 5,542
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 269
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so you added the 2 electric fans? is the factory mechanical fan still on there? is the clutch on it good?
do the 2 auxiliary fans move the air the same direction as the mechanical fan? if not, the fans are fighting each other.
i experimented with an electric fan on my 351 F350 plow truck. it was no where near as effective as the mechanical fan. there were 2 radiator options for the truck - i have the larger radiator and the cooling system is entirely stock. as long as the clutch in the fan is good, there should be no issues. i plow 50 driveways - mostly one right after the other up and down 2 streets, so the truck is always moving at slow speed and i have absolutely no overheating concerns.
do the 2 auxiliary fans move the air the same direction as the mechanical fan? if not, the fans are fighting each other.
i experimented with an electric fan on my 351 F350 plow truck. it was no where near as effective as the mechanical fan. there were 2 radiator options for the truck - i have the larger radiator and the cooling system is entirely stock. as long as the clutch in the fan is good, there should be no issues. i plow 50 driveways - mostly one right after the other up and down 2 streets, so the truck is always moving at slow speed and i have absolutely no overheating concerns.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
so you added the 2 electric fans? is the factory mechanical fan still on there? is the clutch on it good?
do the 2 auxiliary fans move the air the same direction as the mechanical fan? if not, the fans are fighting each other.
i experimented with an electric fan on my 351 F350 plow truck. it was no where near as effective as the mechanical fan. there were 2 radiator options for the truck - i have the larger radiator and the cooling system is entirely stock. as long as the clutch in the fan is good, there should be no issues. i plow 50 driveways - mostly one right after the other up and down 2 streets, so the truck is always moving at slow speed and i have absolutely no overheating concerns.
do the 2 auxiliary fans move the air the same direction as the mechanical fan? if not, the fans are fighting each other.
i experimented with an electric fan on my 351 F350 plow truck. it was no where near as effective as the mechanical fan. there were 2 radiator options for the truck - i have the larger radiator and the cooling system is entirely stock. as long as the clutch in the fan is good, there should be no issues. i plow 50 driveways - mostly one right after the other up and down 2 streets, so the truck is always moving at slow speed and i have absolutely no overheating concerns.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
i'm not following - are you saying that because it is belt driven pump, you do not have the factory mechanical fan? If so, the fact that the plow pump is belt driven should NOT require the removal of the factory mechanical fan.
you mention you have a fisher 8 foot plow so I assume you have the old belt driven speed cast setup? This was an excellent system and did not require the removal of the factory mechanical fan. Now maybe at some point someone got their hands on it and messed around, removing the factory mechanical fan and replacing it with an electric setup? Seeing a pic of the engine bay and fan setup would help to understand what you are working with.
you mention you have a fisher 8 foot plow so I assume you have the old belt driven speed cast setup? This was an excellent system and did not require the removal of the factory mechanical fan. Now maybe at some point someone got their hands on it and messed around, removing the factory mechanical fan and replacing it with an electric setup? Seeing a pic of the engine bay and fan setup would help to understand what you are working with.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
I try not to re-invent the wheel if possible....
Your 95 amp alternator is definitely running it's *** off with 2 electrical driven fans. That explains the resistance and the increase of temperature via the dash gauge.
As electrical resistance increases, you lose voltage, then you see increased electrical strain on the stock setup. This explains the visual and physical increase of the dash gauge. It's electrical. More resistance, higher it goes.
You need or it be great to have the fans run with 2 relays and 10 gauge wiring. I personally, would ditch the fans and go back to the mechanical fan setup. It Will ease your mind, your wallet, and your truck.
You just got this truck running well, run it AS IS. When you have time and money to **** away, then tinker with it.
I've been there...done it. I ran 2 (16") electric fans on my 4.9. It didnt, could help that engine...i went back to mechanical fan setup, and it was "1" less worry.
Right now, think about how much money you have dumped into trying to keep it "cool". And the mechanical fan didn't cost you a thing.
Your 95 amp alternator is definitely running it's *** off with 2 electrical driven fans. That explains the resistance and the increase of temperature via the dash gauge.
As electrical resistance increases, you lose voltage, then you see increased electrical strain on the stock setup. This explains the visual and physical increase of the dash gauge. It's electrical. More resistance, higher it goes.
You need or it be great to have the fans run with 2 relays and 10 gauge wiring. I personally, would ditch the fans and go back to the mechanical fan setup. It Will ease your mind, your wallet, and your truck.
You just got this truck running well, run it AS IS. When you have time and money to **** away, then tinker with it.
I've been there...done it. I ran 2 (16") electric fans on my 4.9. It didnt, could help that engine...i went back to mechanical fan setup, and it was "1" less worry.
Right now, think about how much money you have dumped into trying to keep it "cool". And the mechanical fan didn't cost you a thing.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
I try not to re-invent the wheel if possible....
Your 95 amp alternator is definitely running it's *** off with 2 electrical driven fans. That explains the resistance and the increase of temperature via the dash gauge.
As electrical resistance increases, you lose voltage, then you see increased electrical strain on the stock setup. This explains the visual and physical increase of the dash gauge. It's electrical. More resistance, higher it goes.
You need or it be great to have the fans run with 2 relays and 10 gauge wiring. I personally, would ditch the fans and go back to the mechanical fan setup. It Will ease your mind, your wallet, and your truck.
You just got this truck running well, run it AS IS. When you have time and money to **** away, then tinker with it.
I've been there...done it. I ran 2 (16") electric fans on my 4.9. It didnt, could help that engine...i went back to mechanical fan setup, and it was "1" less worry.
Right now, think about how much money you have dumped into trying to keep it "cool". And the mechanical fan didn't cost you a thing.
Your 95 amp alternator is definitely running it's *** off with 2 electrical driven fans. That explains the resistance and the increase of temperature via the dash gauge.
As electrical resistance increases, you lose voltage, then you see increased electrical strain on the stock setup. This explains the visual and physical increase of the dash gauge. It's electrical. More resistance, higher it goes.
You need or it be great to have the fans run with 2 relays and 10 gauge wiring. I personally, would ditch the fans and go back to the mechanical fan setup. It Will ease your mind, your wallet, and your truck.
You just got this truck running well, run it AS IS. When you have time and money to **** away, then tinker with it.
I've been there...done it. I ran 2 (16") electric fans on my 4.9. It didnt, could help that engine...i went back to mechanical fan setup, and it was "1" less worry.
Right now, think about how much money you have dumped into trying to keep it "cool". And the mechanical fan didn't cost you a thing.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: mountains of maine
I have the speed cast on my 460,the pulley goes between the fan and the drive pulley,you need studs instead of bolts,need to be 1/4 inch longer,and the pump on top of engine,easy and the best system.go back to the factory clutch fan,as was said before 1 less problem