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I have plenty of room to back in from the blind side or the drivers side . There isn’t anything across from where I plan on putting the new driveway and approach. The drainage ditch across the street is up hill from me so it’s shallow in case the front of the truck swings into it . It’s my side that is deep so I need to plan a wide enough approach so I don’t chance dropping off the culvert when backing it in.
Think you can upload a screenshot of how it looks from google maps? To help give a better visual.
Sorry about the quality of this picture. Yellow is my fence at the street and to the north of the proposed RV storage site . The pink is the new drive and RV storage . From the street on to my property is down hill.
Ok, thanks. With a property like that, how do you feel about running a driveway from your main driveway to connect it to the RV driveway you want to build? Kind of like an elongated circular driveway. That way, you pull in the main driveway, circle around to the RV driveway, and easy back in to the storage unit. When you leave to go camping, you just pull straight out to the main road. You wouldn't need as much width pulling forward as you do trying to back in typically.
Edit: Another option would be to do as I recommended, but turn the unit sideways. So you pull in from the connector driveway, and then pull out, turn, drive out the new driveway, and turn onto the road.
Ok, thanks. With a property like that, how do you feel about running a driveway from your main driveway to connect it to the RV driveway you want to build? Kind of like an elongated circular driveway. That way, you pull in the main driveway, circle around to the RV driveway, and easy back in to the storage unit. When you leave to go camping, you just pull straight out to the main road. You wouldn't need as much width pulling forward as you do trying to back in typically.
Edit: Another option would be to do as I recommended, but turn the unit sideways. So you pull in from the connector driveway, and then pull out, turn, drive out the new driveway, and turn onto the road.
I have several options, I would like to do all concrete but that can add up quickly. I could combination gravel and concrete. Thanks for the thoughts.
I had/have somewhat limited space to put a RV Carport, not so much length, but width. I have a Momentum 394 5ver and from the tip of the nose to the back of the trailer is approx. 44 1/2' long. The very most I had to work with on my property was a shelter that would be 13' wide. Since the trailer is 13' 5" tall, I had to do some serious measuring to determine whether a 13' x 13' x 45' shelter would work for me. Most RV Carport companies do not want to sell you something that is taller than it is wide. So after careful measurements, I decided that a 13 wide by 13 tall unit would work....but just barely. As they were installing the shelter and putting it up, I kept looking at it and thinking...."OMG, this isn't going to work". So they finished it late in the day and the next day was the "test" to see if I had been successful or if I had made a $7000 mistake.
Armed with a set of walkie talkies and my wife watching as I lined the trailer up to back it into the shelter for the first time, I lined it up dead center of the shelter. As I backed it in (very, very slowly), she kept an eye on the sides of the trailer and how close they were to the bracing that goes from the vertical legs up to the rafter/truss. She kept telling me to proceed and finally I got it in the shelter.......and zero mishaps!
As you can see in the pictures below, it fits, but I added a Red painted line on the gravel and that is the mark that my street side tires on the trailer need to line up with in order to get the trailer in the shelter dead center and without fear of it hitting the structure when backing in. My recommendation is to obviously go with a larger one (taller and wider) if you have the room to put it.....I didn't.
Once the trailer is in the shelter and landed, I can put the slides out part of the way, but not fully extend them. Fortunately, there is enough room to access the inside of the camper, but I do use the phone app to run the slides out and watch the slide as it comes out until I need to stop it without hitting anything. Again, it's not optimal, but it's the best I could do given the limited space that I have. And one note....I will NEVER try to back it into the shelter after dark, it's just too risky.
I figure the wider the better to get it off the street and headed down the driveway ..
That is the key for making it easier. A 50' (or more) entrance would make it so you could back a tractor trailer in there if needed.
This my setup for my 36' fifth wheel: 2 lane town street into a 12' driveway with a brick column on the south side of the entrance and a small flower bed on the north side. I always back in from the drivers side. It is doable, but tight going. I have been tempted to get rid of the column.
We recently built a new house so I was able to plan for RV parking. I don't have an RV carport or garage, yet. For the driveway, I made a loop around the property so I never need to backup at home. In the picture, the asphalt driveway was extended around to the side of the house. This is where the trailer is parked. The remainder of the gravel driveway goes around the backyard and then back to the street. The septic field is in the front yard. This has worked great for us. It's really easy to enter and leave the property when towing the trailer. Maybe the picture will give you some ideas.
That's a nice layout Mike. The light gray is gravel and the dark gray is asphalt?
That's correct, light gray is gravel and the dark gray is asphalt. I may pave the gravel section in the future, but the gravel was most budget friendly for now. The RV parking area has a 30 amp electrical connection, fresh water connection and dump station. The lot size is 1 acre.
We recently built a new house so I was able to plan for RV parking. I don't have an RV carport or garage, yet. For the driveway, I made a loop around the property so I never need to backup at home. In the picture, the asphalt driveway was extended around to the side of the house. This is where the trailer is parked. The remainder of the gravel driveway goes around the backyard and then back to the street. The septic field is in the front yard. This has worked great for us. It's really easy to enter and leave the property when towing the trailer. Maybe the picture will give you some ideas.
Im on 2.5 acres with the house on the upper end of the property. Behind the house towards the of the property is a natural drainage (sometimes creek) that makes it too wet to access. I would have to do a lot of building up to make it drive able. Behind the area I want to use for the RV shelter is my septic field so that’s off limits. I wish I could do something similar to what you have . I can still do a circular drive at the top of the property as another post suggested. At least I could get it off the street and do the backing on my property.
Mine is 21 x 46'x 12' tall sides (14' in the center) and open on all sides except I put sun screen on the sides. We store our 2020 Pinnacle KPTS under it in the summer when not on the road. In the winter it goes in the covered shed...that is 50'x 100' with a 14' door.
If I were you, but I'm not, I would rock a new drive with 1" minus and put up a steel carport...Carport wide enough to open up slides on both sides and long enough to cover from the sun. You can either enclose with siding or use sun screen like I did (post above). If you enclose make it twice as big with a roll up door as you will always add extra stuff...Use rock (1" minus packs pretty good) as it is easier turning on the truck and camper... Make a right turn, right after the fence (on your pic) and go along the front of the property with drive to the top front corner, then add rock and put in as big of a carport as you can. Really rock or concrete is your choice...concrete is really nice but expensive and harder on suspension turning/twisting...Adding rock and leveling as needed is much easier...
If I were you, but I'm not, I would rock a new drive with 1" minus and put up a steel carport...Carport wide enough to open up slides on both sides and long enough to cover from the sun. You can either enclose with siding or use sun screen like I did (post above). If you enclose make it twice as big with a roll up door as you will always add extra stuff...Use rock (1" minus packs pretty good) as it is easier turning on the truck and camper... Make a right turn, right after the fence (on your pic) and go along the front of the property with drive to the top front corner, then add rock and put in as big of a carport as you can. Really rock or concrete is your choice...concrete is really nice but expensive and harder on suspension turning/twisting...Adding rock and leveling as needed is much easier...
thanks for the information. I had a driveway made out of a road base material when I first built my house and it was ok. The bad thing was during periods of hard rain it started washing downhill. Since this will have a pretty goof slope downhill I’ll probably go concrete if it’s in my budget.