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2002 7.3 no start

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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 02:06 PM
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2002 7.3 no start

Hey guys, new around here and having trouble finding any threads for exactly what I have going on. As the title states, my 02 powerstroke 7.3 won't start. I checked all the basics, fuel in the bowl and bowl fills with key on, filter is clean, battery is good, oil level is good. I replaced the CPS with a genuine Ford replacement (grey one) and the RPMs are reading while it cranks, replaced the IPR with a new Ford part and I have voltage at the plug. I tried unplugging the ICP while cranking with no change. I don't have a scanner that tells me anything more useful than RPMs. I'm getting a little white smoke out of the tailpipe and it sputters occasionally like it's trying to start but never fires. Any suggestions on what to look for next?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 02:14 PM
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What is the fuel gauge reading?
Some trucks will not run if fuel gets below 1/4 tank
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by marksman76
What is the fuel gauge reading?
Some trucks will not run if fuel gets below 1/4 tank
It's full, we keep it topped off.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BoneDaddy53
Hey guys, new around here and having trouble finding any threads for exactly what I have going on. As the title states, my 02 powerstroke 7.3 won't start. I checked all the basics, fuel in the bowl and bowl fills with key on, filter is clean, battery is good, oil level is good. I replaced the CPS with a genuine Ford replacement (grey one) and the RPMs are reading while it cranks, replaced the IPR with a new Ford part and I have voltage at the plug. I tried unplugging the ICP while cranking with no change. I don't have a scanner that tells me anything more useful than RPMs. I'm getting a little white smoke out of the tailpipe and it sputters occasionally like it's trying to start but never fires. Any suggestions on what to look for next?

Welcome to FTE.

Do you have the Wait to Start (WTS) light?
Is the fuel bowl heater still plugged in?
GPR and GP’s working properly?


 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
Welcome to FTE.

Do you have the Wait to Start (WTS) light?
Is the fuel bowl heater still plugged in?
GPR and GP’s working properly?
Bowl heater is plugged in and the WTS light comes on. I had power on both GPRs but I appear to have smoked the second one after cranking it a million times today.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 05:34 PM
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Ok, unplug the fuel bowl heater, tape the plug up and leave it unplugged, and forget about it. Check fuse 30 under dash, I’d swap it out for a brand new one and see if it starts. Just to clarify, you only have 1 GPR. If you’re still in NH, I’d plug it in > 4 hours get some heat in the block, put the charger on the batteries too. I’d switch to 5w/40 on your next oil change it’ll help you with the cold starts.

If you open the fuel bowl drain, and turn the key on does fuel flow out relatively fast? You can put a 3/8 ID hose on the drain and run it down to the axle.


 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 05:39 PM
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It's been inside the shop for a week now, temp doesn't get below 50 degrees in there.
And yes, down to one GPR now.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BoneDaddy53
It's been inside the shop for a week now, temp doesn't get below 50 degrees in there.
And yes, down to one GPR now.
No, the 7.3L only has 1 GPR not two.

I’d check fuel delivery as I mentioned above. Have you recently changed the fuel filter? If the center post get moved or bumped it will restrict fuel flow. Regarding the fuel bowl heater and fuse, it can cause no start issues like you’re currently experiencing. I would still plug it in too, with it being indoors and plugged in it’ll definitely help it start easier when we figure out the issue at hand.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
No, the 7.3L only has 1 GPR not two.

I’d check fuel delivery as I mentioned above. Have you recently changed the fuel filter? If the center post get moved or bumped it will restrict fuel flow. Regarding the fuel bowl heater and fuse, it can cause no start issues like you’re currently experiencing. I would still plug it in too, with it being indoors and plugged in it’ll definitely help it start easier when we figure out the issue at hand.
Ah, second relay must be for something else then? The fuel filter hadn't been touched since last s service, months ago.

Edit: looked at some diagrams, the second relay appears to be for the intake heater. No voltage coming out of that relay, should the intake heater be on under the conditions I have?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 06:01 PM
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This is what you’re seeing under the hood? The second relay is the AIR INTAKE HEATER (AIH) relay... Sounds like you need to determine which relay is smoked, if it’s the GPR replace it with the Stancor relay you’ll never regret it!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1423430-glow-plug-relay-wiring.html

​​​​


Do one thing at a time so you can determine which thing was the problem...

Change fuse #30 first, then try and start truck.

Check fuel flow to see if you’re actually getting fuel into injectors.

 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
This is what you’re seeing under the hood? The second relay is the AIR INTAKE HEATER (AIH) relay... Sounds like you need to determine which relay is smoked, if it’s the GPR replace it with the Stancor relay you’ll never regret it!


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ay-wiring.html
The GPR is good, brand new and I have good power when the key is on.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BoneDaddy53
The GPR is good, brand new and I have good power when the key is on.

Ok, IMO, then look at fuel delivery...
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
Ok, IMO, then look at fuel delivery...
That's what I've been looking at. Fuel pump is definitely feeding the bowl adequately, I even loosened the fuel bowl cap a turn and it sprays out which tells me the pump is working fine. At this point, I'm thinking IDM or HPOP but they're expensive parts to just guess-and-check them.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 06:20 PM
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Before you go $$$, remove fuel bowl heater plug and change fuse 30.

‘If that’s doesn’t work...

Jonathan can test your IDM: https://www.dieseltechchatt.com/
 
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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
Before you go $$$, remove fuel bowl heater plug and change fuse 30.
I checked fuse 30 but I'll unplug the heater and replace the fuse tomorrow. If the #30 fuse was blown, wouldn't the WTS light be off?
 
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