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Just recently I brought the truck in for the block heater recall. The heater worked fine last winter and now after they changed the wire it does not work. Checked amps on the circuit (0amps) today I will check resistance but does anyone know what the resistance might be? Its a straight forward circuit so I am guessing it will probably be the element has failed.
I also checked the connection at the element to make sure the dealer had actually plugged it in and that was fine.
I'm thinking a defective cord, maybe a bad plug end. Strange things do happen. I'd take it back to the dealer. Unless you can somehow test the cord. GM is having the same issue with block heater cords. Must be Ford and GM have the same manufacturer making the parts.
before i typed up this thread i should have just checked resistance before hand but i figured let me get a base number just so i can compare it. So i checked resistance from the 115 plug end and had OL so i said maybe the wire is bad and so checked end to end and got resistance (same as touching your leads together) so checked the element directly and long behold the element is open. already have 1 on order so hopefully I will be able to get it swapped tomorrow.
This resistance measure is between the neutral and hot line on the plug? Or at the block? How are you measuring amps, clamp on meter? Just curious because finally mine goes in for the recall tomorrow. I can't believe how long this has taken....
Be very careful, they are starting engine fires with inadequate wiring. If you bring it in for the recall they will check it, neuter it until they can replace the cord, and then fix when they got parts. The reason they neuter it is the fire risk and they advices not to use at all until repaired. We are already seeing fires in engine bays this year, so there is that concern with lower temps overnight now.....
that is 100% correct. Brought the truck in over the summer and my service rep told me they temporally disabled the use of the block heater. They snipped the prongs off of the male plug end. One thing i was told by the dealer was it goes by your VIN when ordering the new part. I was waiting for a while before mine finally came in. (not sure how true that is but you never know) the new part does not have the plug that was corroding behind the bumper, it is just a straight wire from the 115 end to the element.
today i will swap out the element and see why the original had failed.
This resistance measure is between the neutral and hot line on the plug? Or at the block? How are you measuring amps, clamp on meter? Just curious because finally mine goes in for the recall tomorrow. I can't believe how long this has taken....
when i checked the resistance it was between the neutral and hot at the front of the truck, than i checked the wire it self from one end to the other to make sure it was not a broken wire (that checked out fine) than just to confirm i went to the element pin to pin and pin to ground and had OL. For the amps i have a dedicated circuit just for my block heater so i removed my electric panel cover and clamped onto the wire feeding the breaker and than plugged the truck in and the amps did not change. I did a test to make sure my meter was reading correct by plugging my shop vac in and the amps jumped so i knew it was on the truck side.
Recently had several recalls addressed on my 2017 PowerStroke including the replacement of the block heater cable. Since this work was done I have NO BLOCK HEATER. Checked at plug end and found no continuity and no resistance. Will report dealer's response to this critical issue. I use my block heater often and too great advantage. I find the engine runs better, warms faster, and gets significantly better mileage with fewer regenerations.