2003 finish products
In the past, I have always used Meguire's Deep Crystal (the consumer grade, 3 step process) system, or other Megure's product for polishing and waxing. Is this safe to use on the finish/clearcoat of a 2003 Explorer?
Also, it has leather seats, and I have no clue what to use to clean and condition them. I'm told many newer cars have a coating on the leather to preserve it, and you have to use a special type of cleaner/conditioner on it. From the appreance of my seats, this appears to be the case, but I don't really know. Any advice (including specific products) would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Miles Teg
One trick is to use good cotton CLEAN towels or cloths. Most wax sites will state the same. I have seen people using old t-shirts---OK me too-- but becareful of any decals that could scratch the paint.
As humans always do, we are all looking for a "majic bullet" and I have found that using something that works for us already is OK. If you are comfortable with Mcguires, then my suggestion is to use it.
skip
Asking about car care products is like opening Pandora's Box
It seems that this is a world populated by snake-oil sales people, true believers, non-believers, wanna-believers, and fanatics, as well as those of us who just want a shine and protection for our investments.I've used 'em all (or so it seems) at one time or another, and most promise more than they can or do deliver. Some shine well but don't last, others are durable but don't shine too well, some are much better at both than others.
Here are some aspects you might consider.
1) There are two broad classes of "waxe/polishes" : those using natural wax such as carnauba, and the synthetics -- acrylics, polymers, etc. If you want a high, deep gloss, many feel that carnauba is still the best. However, it's labor intensive and doesn't last more than a few weeks, especially in the south. Some of the synthetics are also labor intensive, but they can give excellent protection and last longer -- sometimes much more -- than the waxes.
2) Of the true waxes, almost everyone who has used Meguiars has good things to say. Among the synthetics, here are three who seem to have a large and devoted following:
-- Zaino Bros. (www.zainostore.com)
-- Klasse. One seller is Classic Motoring Accessories. ( www.properautocare.com) who also has lot of good info on applications.
-- Liquid Glass (www.liquidglass.com) Can be found at many PepBoys and AutoZone stores.
3) For leather care I personally prefer Lexol. It's approved by many auto mfrs, and won't make your seats feel greasy or sticky. On my '02 EB, it leaves the leather looking just like "factory new" except more supple. I would avoid products containing lanolin or petroleum bases. A plus for me is that Lexol leaves a mild leathery aroma.
Good luck and best to all,
Stu33
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2002 Expl EB, 4.6L V8, 3.73LS, Cl IV tow pkg
Last edited by Stu33; Oct 11, 2003 at 05:06 AM.
2) Brand-new finishes require WAX, not POLISH. Yes, there's a difference. You use polish on an old finish to bring back the shine. Polish contains abrasives, wax does not. Since your finish is not old, why would you want to ruin it with abrasives? I see someone get out a can of Rain Dance or Simoniz and go to town on their brand-new vehicle- I just want to throw up. Use pure wax: Excalibur, Classic, Maguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax- nothing else. End of story.
I have to take mild exception to what 1956MarkII says. "Wax" is not the end of story, because the distinction between polishes and waxes has been blurred.
The term "polish" has become often used to differentiate synthetics from true "waxes" (generally meaning pure Carnauba). However, some one-step "waxes" also contain cleaners or even mild abrasives. And some "polishes" such as Zaino Z2, Klasse, or Liquid Glass contain NO abrasives (according to their mfrs), although they may contain chemical cleaners to remove tar, road film, etc. They recommend a separate cleaner or claying if the finish is in need of such, which presumably a new car would not need.
Best to read the mfrs label/instructions. If it says "safe for clear-coat finishes" the product probably does not contain abrasive, but even this is not necessarily certain.
Because of all the advertising hype, the subject is not easy to get your arms around. If you want the best results, it's worth doing a little research.
Best to all,
Stu33
Mason




