Do what I did. Start changing your fuel lines. I don't know why it helped, but it sure helped my problems out. I went from 10-12 miles and dying to over a 150 miles and only had a couple of coughs out of it.
The Chipster

 

Changing fuel lines is very cheap. Just go buy some rubber fuel line at your local hardware store. About 35 cents a foot. It will take about 20 feet to do both lines. You'll need 10 hose clamps also. From what I have seen in each of the bends of the old plastic line there is a small deposit of gunk. This has resricked the flow of fuel just enough to cause troubles with mine. I know now it was a vapor lock because , of lack of fuel to the intake manifold.
The Chipster

 

Isn't it great to have such a site to go to to find out how great it is to have such great minds come together for one problem. Just wanted to say thanks to you all!
The Chipster

 

I'm going to change the rest of the fuel hoses and also the stoter switch in the distributor tomorrow.

 

The hose that's most important in the removal of vapor in the fuel system is the one (the original plastic one is usually lighter in color than the fuel feed line) between the top rear connection of the small (about 1 pint capacity) reservoir and its fitting on the fuel tank. If it's clogged, pinched or kinked (most likely the latter), vapor elimination will be impaired.

I forgot to mention that there's also rigid metal tube inside the tank that completes that fuel/vapor return pathway, that could become clogged; also probably from corrosion. It ends up practically next to the fuel pickup filter "screen", at the lowest part of the tank. I think the reason is to minimize foaming and subsequent vapor production that could result from splashing down on a lower fuel level as fuel is consumed if it's released above that level.

I still think the in-tank primary fuel pump malfunctioning is the cause of most everyone's stumbling problems. Its function can be checked by disconnecting the LOWER rear hose from the previously mentioned reservoir, dropping it into a gas "can", then just turn "On" the Ignition Switch (don't try to Start the engine) to verify the fuel-tank pump is working.

Fuel mormally should come shooting out of that line fairly quickly, filling a gallon container in a few minutes. TFI's can go bad too, but I think the car would be backfiring noticably as it starts misfiring before it finally shuts down.

And I STILL recommend using Cat-converter friendly water dispersing fuel additives regularly, regardless of suspected fuel pump problems. They're available almost anywhere, from auto parts supply stores to discount stores.

'Happy trails' to everyone!

 

Pulled Distributor and replaced TFI and Stator switch, now it seems as if the distributor doesn't want to fall into place. HELP

 

You need to turn the rotor until it drops into it slot. Hope you marked where it went before you pulled it? Line up where number one wire should be and turn it back and forth a bit until it drops in where it needs to.
The Chipster

 

Follow the directions from a Haynes manual. If you don't have one go get one at the library or auto parts store.

 

I have replaced every part of my fuel system! It seems to run pretty well. If I am stopped at a light for a long time. It will sputter a bit. But if it sits, like today. I was hooking up my utility trailer. It sat ideling for about five minutes. I had to bleed off the vapors at the intake relief valve before it would run again. It ran pretty rough until it had sat for about an hour. Seems fine now. But it does this all the time. Have to be really careful of where I go so not to get stuck in slow traffic.
Any Ideas guys on how to fix this one??

 

Please explain. Which "intake relief valve" are you talking about? Are you talking about the Schrader valve (looks like a tire valve) on the fuel rail? What "vapors" came off? Unless your fuel pumps are pumping air, there's shouldn't be any "vapor" in the fuel rail.

 

My thinking exactly, 'Shorty. As I've tried to explain before, it's the first or primary stage in the fuel system, consisting of the in-tank low-pressure fuel pump and the fuel (filter) reservoir, working together to insure the HIGH-pressure pump gets a constant and vapor-free supply of fuel to pass on to the injectors at their required 50-75 psi. The max pressure capability of that secondary stage pump is over 100 psi, though it's rarely called for, as I understand it.

Under those psi conditions, it seems unlikely there could be enough of a vapor accumulation in the fuel rail to cause the kind of problems mentioned by the others, unless other conditions are so abnormal, like something excessively hot is nearby that fuel supply plenum, or perhaps somewhere else between the high-pressure pump and the fuel rail.

Whatever the cause, I'm curiously waiting to find out what it turns out to be, since I've run out of ideas myself!

 

Yes it is the schrader valve on the fuel rail. I get either vapor lock in this or air. When I depress the valve I get either air or vapor. Can't tell.
Could it be that when I changed my fuel lines that in using the exsisting connectors that one of them is leaking past and putting air into the line when it idels for a few minutes or stopped in traffic?
Thanks for any help on this one! Been driving me crazy for over a month now! Got $300.00 into this mess.
Thanks
The Chipster

 

This had just occurred to me...

I suppose if one had a fuel-compatible 100-psi MECHANICAL pressure gauge, and he rigged up the appropriately rated plumbing that will screw or securely clamp onto that valve, he could check and maybe even monitor the pressure as he drove, for a while, to see if there's a pressure drop occurring either just before and/or during the abnormal symptoms.

It might be worth the time, trouble and any (minor?) expense as a diagnostic aid by helping to better narrow down the area(s) at fault.

This would be a fire risk, so use care and attention to detail during the process of setting it up, as well as keep a close eye on its condition while in use, especially if kept in place over a longer than a few hour period.

 

I can answer the question on how to hook up a gauge to the schader valve.
You can go to any HVAC suppier and purchase a quick disconnect for AC testing. These are about four feet long. It is used to hook up to the outdoor condensing unit to test for gas pressures in the system. From that you can hook a gauge to. The lines come with a scharder depresser in them. With that you can hook onto the schader while the motor is running without any loss of fuel.

The Chipster

 

That should more than handle the pressure alone. However as to the resistence and/or compatibility with the fuel, along with whatever additives may be used by the particular brand, is still open for debate.

Then there's the matter pertaining to the gauge. Oil pressure gauges MAY be able to handle gasoline, at least for the short term. Over an extended period of time, additives in the fuel, not normally used in motor oils (if any) could compromise the integrity of the bellows seams and joints.

To say the least, it all sounds like a very interesting experiment, and with the potential to be as informative for us shade-tree ENGINEers.

Hey, I'm starting to really get into all this, here! It could be because I'm just now out in search of a paying job. I can't help but wonder if there's a need for a technical consultant on this site, or anywhere else for that matter, and how well would it pay?!

Hm-m-m...