Rear Leaf Spring Bracket Replacement Questions
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
Likes: 8
Rear Leaf Spring Bracket Replacement Questions
I have to change a rear leaf spring bracket on the back of my 1999 F250SD. I bought a replacement made by Dorman, but I have some concerns.
1/ The bolts they supplied (to go where the rivets go) are quite a bit smaller in diameter than the holes. No doubt metric, but just looking at them, picture a 3/8" bolt in a 1/2" hole. They are marked 10.9, which is roughly equivalent to Grade 8, but they are coarse thread with the threads all the way up to the hex head. I'm thinking I should buy fine thread Grade 8 bolts with a bit of a solid shank on them. If the shank is a bit too long, I can use a washer on both sides. Comments please?
2/ My Repair Manual calls for shackle to bracket bolt torque of 166 ft-lbs for narrow frame F250s and 185 ft-lbs for wide frame F250s. I'm not that concerned about the torque value as the supplied nut is one of those deformed ones that shouldn't come loose, but with either of those torque values, it makes me wonder if the bracket will bend in so far the shackle won't be free to rotate. And being curious, what's the story on narrow vs. wide frame F250s? Comments please?
3/ Once I've jacked up the rear and supported the frame on jack-stands, does anyone have any tips on how to lower the axle to minimize the load on the shackle to bracket bolt so I can remove it? I'm prepared to guess based on what I see happening as I got lucky once doing the same job on a Ford Ranger. Of coarse the leafs in the F250 are a lot stronger.
I admit, this should be a simple job and it sort of embarrasses me to ask these questions. However, I always appreciate advice. Thank-you.
1/ The bolts they supplied (to go where the rivets go) are quite a bit smaller in diameter than the holes. No doubt metric, but just looking at them, picture a 3/8" bolt in a 1/2" hole. They are marked 10.9, which is roughly equivalent to Grade 8, but they are coarse thread with the threads all the way up to the hex head. I'm thinking I should buy fine thread Grade 8 bolts with a bit of a solid shank on them. If the shank is a bit too long, I can use a washer on both sides. Comments please?
2/ My Repair Manual calls for shackle to bracket bolt torque of 166 ft-lbs for narrow frame F250s and 185 ft-lbs for wide frame F250s. I'm not that concerned about the torque value as the supplied nut is one of those deformed ones that shouldn't come loose, but with either of those torque values, it makes me wonder if the bracket will bend in so far the shackle won't be free to rotate. And being curious, what's the story on narrow vs. wide frame F250s? Comments please?
3/ Once I've jacked up the rear and supported the frame on jack-stands, does anyone have any tips on how to lower the axle to minimize the load on the shackle to bracket bolt so I can remove it? I'm prepared to guess based on what I see happening as I got lucky once doing the same job on a Ford Ranger. Of coarse the leafs in the F250 are a lot stronger.
I admit, this should be a simple job and it sort of embarrasses me to ask these questions. However, I always appreciate advice. Thank-you.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,449
Likes: 70
From: South Jersey
I have to change a rear leaf spring bracket on the back of my 1999 F250SD. I bought a replacement made by Dorman, but I have some concerns.
1/ The bracket itself is decent, the hardware Dorman uses in my opinion is GARBAGE. When I did the rear mounts and shackle on my 2001 f150 I went to the hardware store and bought actual grade 8 bolts in SAE. The smooth shank doesnt matter at all, I bought 1.5" and used a grade 8 washer and grade 8 nylon lock nut plus neverseize. Been 4years and they havent budged, I did have to drill out mount and frame to fit the SAE bolt
2/ I was under the impression only the F350 were available in narrow and wide frame? Wide frame is for chassis trucks where the back half is flat like a F450/550 so aftermarket bed companies can adapt easier and the width is an industry standard. Torque your new bolts to the lower setting
3/ I have four of the harbor freight 30ton jack stands. When I install lift kits or need to support the truck in the way you need I put two under the trucks hitch then the other two under the frame in fro t of the leaf spring mounts so between cab and bed. I then put a 4ton floor jack under each side of the rear axle. Loosen leaf spring bolts and raise /lower Jack's till I get the suspension "free" bolts should slid right out IF they are not rusted solid in place. I do one side at a time it helps keep the axle in place. And have some long pry bars and larger center punches to help align everything, I also use ratchet straps if the trucks being a pain in the rear to pull the axle over some
1/ The bracket itself is decent, the hardware Dorman uses in my opinion is GARBAGE. When I did the rear mounts and shackle on my 2001 f150 I went to the hardware store and bought actual grade 8 bolts in SAE. The smooth shank doesnt matter at all, I bought 1.5" and used a grade 8 washer and grade 8 nylon lock nut plus neverseize. Been 4years and they havent budged, I did have to drill out mount and frame to fit the SAE bolt
2/ I was under the impression only the F350 were available in narrow and wide frame? Wide frame is for chassis trucks where the back half is flat like a F450/550 so aftermarket bed companies can adapt easier and the width is an industry standard. Torque your new bolts to the lower setting
3/ I have four of the harbor freight 30ton jack stands. When I install lift kits or need to support the truck in the way you need I put two under the trucks hitch then the other two under the frame in fro t of the leaf spring mounts so between cab and bed. I then put a 4ton floor jack under each side of the rear axle. Loosen leaf spring bolts and raise /lower Jack's till I get the suspension "free" bolts should slid right out IF they are not rusted solid in place. I do one side at a time it helps keep the axle in place. And have some long pry bars and larger center punches to help align everything, I also use ratchet straps if the trucks being a pain in the rear to pull the axle over some
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,670
Likes: 668
From: DeMotte, IN
I agree with #1. I often upgrade hardware I feel is insufficient. I would also contact Doreman and get their input, but most likely they will tell you their design is sufficient, if you get a reply at all.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
I had to replace my rear hangers as well two years ago. I also bought the ones made by Dorman. The job was easier for me as I had removed the bed. My frame was rusty so I did the following:
1. burned out the rivets holding on the old hangers.
2. I knocked off as much rust scale as I could. Then painted the frame with Chassis Saver paint. (I love this paint!)
3. There were a couple of rust holes around the hanger. (New England salt roads). I cut a backing plate out of 1/8 steel to be on the inside of the frame. The backing plate extends as far as I could get it on both sides.
4. Drilled the backing plate to match the hole pattern of the hangers.
5. Painted the new steel with Chassis saver paint. Painted the new hangers also.
6. Bought new grade 8 hardware.
7. Installed new hangers and shackles. I did not replace the bushing in the leaf spring, still looked good.
8. Easy to line up and bolt together with the bed off.
9. Drilled out more holes in the frame and backing plate to secure the ends of the backing plate with additional grade 8 bolts.
It has been two years and holding tight and still see no rust.
Oh, final step:
10: Called psychoanalyst to discuss why I am putting so much time and effort into a 1999 F350 PowerStroke 5 speed.
1. burned out the rivets holding on the old hangers.
2. I knocked off as much rust scale as I could. Then painted the frame with Chassis Saver paint. (I love this paint!)
3. There were a couple of rust holes around the hanger. (New England salt roads). I cut a backing plate out of 1/8 steel to be on the inside of the frame. The backing plate extends as far as I could get it on both sides.
4. Drilled the backing plate to match the hole pattern of the hangers.
5. Painted the new steel with Chassis saver paint. Painted the new hangers also.
6. Bought new grade 8 hardware.
7. Installed new hangers and shackles. I did not replace the bushing in the leaf spring, still looked good.
8. Easy to line up and bolt together with the bed off.
9. Drilled out more holes in the frame and backing plate to secure the ends of the backing plate with additional grade 8 bolts.
It has been two years and holding tight and still see no rust.
Oh, final step:
10: Called psychoanalyst to discuss why I am putting so much time and effort into a 1999 F350 PowerStroke 5 speed.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 500
Likes: 38
From: Pacific Northwest
to all the trouble of redoing them anyways & didn't want to have to worry about sag hopefully for as long as I live.
1. Not sure about the bolts as I purchased my leafs & all required hardware from ATS springs, which I was pointed to here off the forum.
They do sell just the hardware kits and hangers if wanted to go that rought.
2. Bolted mine to torque and my hanger didn't deform at all. But again different hardware.
3. Getting clearance was the tricky part. Getting enough of an axle drop to relieve the tension on the leafs & hangers.
Ended up buying a pair of harbor freight 11ton 110$ jackstands. Also did one side at a time to keep the truck more stable and safe. The jack stands gave me enough room to drop
the axle one one side enough. The hardest part was lining up the new leafs and the centering bolt. Ended up using ratchet straps to get it lined up. Also if I remember correctly my back bolts ended up cutting off with a cut off wheel because of how it went in when it was assembled at the factory.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
Likes: 8
Thank-you for all the replies. I appreciate all the comments!
I did get started on this yesterday. Got the truck jacked up and the axle lowered to a point where it seems the leaf eyes were lightly loaded. Put penetrating on the main bolt and nut that goes through the bracket and shackle (after applying a little heat) and then put the impact wrench on the bolt head. The nut was firmly rusted to the bracket, rusted so bad the wrench slipped and it tore out a section of the bracket around the nut. Next step will be to cut it off.
Overall, I'm not worried about completing this job "unless" the bolt (which did turn) is seized in the shackle spacer or bushing or whatever it's called. In that case, the leaf spring eye bolt will also need to come out and it's been my experience they can be very, very stubborn.
I did get started on this yesterday. Got the truck jacked up and the axle lowered to a point where it seems the leaf eyes were lightly loaded. Put penetrating on the main bolt and nut that goes through the bracket and shackle (after applying a little heat) and then put the impact wrench on the bolt head. The nut was firmly rusted to the bracket, rusted so bad the wrench slipped and it tore out a section of the bracket around the nut. Next step will be to cut it off.
Overall, I'm not worried about completing this job "unless" the bolt (which did turn) is seized in the shackle spacer or bushing or whatever it's called. In that case, the leaf spring eye bolt will also need to come out and it's been my experience they can be very, very stubborn.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
carlsson
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
4
Feb 16, 2016 12:31 PM
jrfiero
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Sep 20, 2010 08:09 PM
black460
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Oct 20, 2004 01:11 PM
darkman
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
Oct 7, 2003 10:28 PM
