So the spring you get is 8017 from afr ?
I can get any distributor designed for my EFI ? Or any other recomendations for better unit?

 

Those sorings are gor flat tappet cams. Are you sure thats what they recomends ?

8017 is for flat tappet cams and rated as 360 lbs
8016 is for hydraulic roller cam and rated as 410 lbs.

Which is the right one ?

 

Will stock fuel injectors will be enough for added hp ?

 

Yes the #1399 Renegade heads for the small block Windsor platform comes standard with the #8017 valve springs with the following listing for them.

"PAC Racing Spring 1.290" OD Hydraulic Roller Dual Valve Spring, 140 lbs on seat, .600" maximum lift, Max RPM 6300-6500"

The ones I upgraded to was the #8016 valve springs.

"AFR's 8016 spring is built for use with solid flat tappet cam shafts operating up to 7200 RPM. 1.550" OD Solid Flat Tappet Dual Valve Spring, 140 lbs on seat, .650" maximum lift, Max RPM 7200-7400"

Reason I was recommended the #8016 springs is as follows which is a exact copy from the email I got from AFR.



For yours being EFI if you get a dist for your application with a steel gear you will be fine with a lot of the camshafts out there but be sure to verify. The 85 302 mustang was the last year of carbed setup with the HO roller motors which is what I needed for my '82 truck as I want to retain DS II ignition system. I don't believe DSII would give me any problems up to 5,500 rpm. Only thing that remains to be seen is the 9.0:1 to 9.5:1 compression if it will cause a issue with the ignition system but I do plan on running the recommended spark plugs as a starting point at the OE gap and go from there.

 

May or may not. I am not too big on fuel injection upgrading in this sense. The only experience I have is with the aftermarket fuel injection systems such as the Holley Sniper and FiTech which I prefer the Sniper setup as it has way better instructions and seems to set up properly without problems.

 

If i do not change the heads. Jaut the cam from ceane, what springs should i get 8017, 8016 or other ? Cant find spec for this cam and which spring is recomended

 

Yes... as long as you only do the cam and exhaust. Summit racing has springs listed for the cam under the additional parts tab

 

How bad/good is my bottom end ?
When driving for a while oil pressure drops to around 25 when driving in city. About 8-10 when sitting in traffic. And about 15-18 when driving still in overdrive in city around 35 mph.
Do i need valve seats, shims for the valve springs ?

 

That's not good pressure. It's reading at the front of the block near the pump. The problem you'll have first is the rod bearings on #'s 4 & 8 cylinders, these are probably at or near zero PSI with those numbers at the front. And as Conanski stated, you don't want solid roller lifters in a daily driver, these have to be adjusted periodically and there's no adjustment for them with E7 heads. So unless you install rocker studs in those heads, solid lifters are out of the question. One more thing is piston choice. 302/5.0 pistons come in pin heights from 1.585 to 1.620, the taller the better as far as compression goes. Make certain of this before buying pistons. If you can get a 351 to swap in, that'll give you the most power increase without changing fuel mileage. Going to 4.10's in the rear may or may not affect your fuel mileage, which I'd think is very important in Europe (that's where you are, right?) Gas here is 2-3 dollars a gallon, so it's not a big deal. You will also need a steel geared distributor with a roller cam, fortunately with EFI, there were lots of applications you can find these in for yours, I'm thinkin you have a TFI distributor already, so either change the gear to steel or source one for the same year Mustang. I would check the bushings in your distributor first before trying to swap gears. I grabbed an extra with a roller 351 block the other day, but found when I got home the bushings were toast in it. Good thing I got it for free.

 

Thank your the answer.
How bad is that pressure? How long can i live with it ?
I think i will stay with 302 fir now. Too many changes swping to 351. If i rebuild bottom end what should i get piston wise ? Crank? Piston rings ? Piston rods ? What compression i should aim if i am mostly driving lpg propane butane mix? It likes AFR 16 to 17 best. Other guys near me with similar engines and lpg has about 14 initial timing. I have 10 right now. I can get new distributor with steel gear. Which brand is better ?

 

Run it too hard and the #'s 4 & 8 will sieze up. Those are at the end of the line in the oil galleries. The pressure port is just downstream from the pump and filter. Can't answer on the propane question. Never ran the stuff in a vehicle. The pistons you'd want to keep the comp ratio up is those flat tops with as close to a 1.620 pin (compression) height as you can get. The 1.585's yield about a point lower but I don't have a calculator handy to do the numbers. That difference is about 8 ccs volume. I know propane is drier than gasoline so they're more sensitive to oiling issues with the cylinder walls.

 

Would more thicker oil will help with oil pressure ?
Where is that piston number found ?
What is better piston forged or Hypereutectic ? Should i bore cylinders to 4.030 ?

 

Thicker oil would help. Those pistons are the two in the rear of the block. As for boring, that's something you won't know till you open it up and see how much wear there is in the bores. Most of the roller block motors have little to no wear after 100-150 thousand miles, if they've been treated well on maintenance. Don't order pistons till the bores have been mic'd. The machinist has to have them in hand before doing any cylinder boring to get the piston to wall clearances correct. You don't need forged pistons here.