When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
getting very close (again !!!) to frame painting time...wasn't I just here a year ago ?????
All the suspension is finished, all the brake and fuel lines are finished and holes drilled for clamps. Gas tank is installed between the frame rails. E-brake cables done and clamped down.
Battery box was fitted, drilled and removed.
I've still got to get the exhaust system mounted and brackets welded/bolted on. So, with the possible exception of a hidden hitch behind the tag, (I can't do that till the bed/roll pan are in place and I can measure and fab up the mount...)
I think I've run out of things to add on...
Can anyone think of anything I might have forgotten that needs to be welded, screwed, bolted or glued onto the frame before I get the paint on it... I'd really hate to grind off new paint to weld on another bracket
I'll report the day after the paint dries the 6 things we all forgot
Sounds like you've got most of it covered. Here's some minor stuff. You could run a piece of 3/4 wire conduit down the left frame rail and 1/2 across the rear sill I suppose. A grounding stud near the fuel tank and tails is handy.
And then when you have time, you can tell us all about this fat block, C6, MII clip, and how this all fits in with the hidden hitch you just mentioned. Maybe a fifth wheel hitch under the tonneau cover while you're at it? Do we gotta keep reminding you your V-Clip towing package IFS is gone? It's in my garage. I just walked by it a moment ago.
my ultimate plan is to start up a "Hot Shot" delivery service using the '53 as my main tow vehicle.... yea right
the hidden hitch will be for the trailer I'll build from the Coke box I've got stored in the shed... just fur the trip incidentals that you don't want sliding around in the bed. Nothing heavy... less than 1000 #s. I'll probably just weld in a class 2 receiver to a bolted in/on cross member and center it up behind the tag insert in the roll pan... but I can't do that till Imock up the bed /rollpan
Why do you think I need the conduit ??? everything else is exposed now ??? the ground lugs are a good idea though... hadn't thought of that
John, sounds like you have most things covered and yes the studs are a great idea.I thought of the conduit on my truck as well to add a lot more protection for my wires at really a cheap rate.I am really intrested in how you paint the frame , something expensive or just a good paint brush and some coat of enamel?? Only as I am right there.Are you doing any bondo work on the frame or just grinding until smoothe.I hope you saw the coughar 22 gallon install pics.Thanks for the tips along the way.DJ
left a reply on the tank thread about the 22 gal...
I plan to paint with either an epoxy based enamel or urethane.. depending on my painters choice of breathing hazards
and I will do some bondo work on the rails to smooth up the rough places, expecially from the cab forward where the tilt hood will show them . I wanted to powder coat, but you can't do any prep work (filling) very easily anyway, when you p.c.... and ... paint is easier to fix than powder if you make changes or additions....
I was just referring to drilling the holes to attach whatever you are retaining your wires with. I used convoluted flexible snake whatever the heck it's called wiring conduit. You gotta be able to get to the wiring to fix your screw ups anyway.
I've seen the "pure street rod crazies" build the entire vehicle with the frame primered, install the cab, exhaust, sheet metal, bed, bumpers, glass, EVERYTHING except upholstery and wiring, then take it all apart again to paint it. All this just to prevent the problems you mentioned and avoid any paint on things like fuel lines, brake cables, etc.
An incredible amount of work, but some of them sure come out slick. (Usually too slick to drive, so a lot of them become "garage decorations")
("If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something")
Sounds like you guys already thought of everything. I like the idea of the rear grounding stud. I'd never thought about using bondo on the frame, was looking at mine last night and thinking it has as many pot holes in it as my street does. I'm interested in the type of paint as well.
Ya , me to on the Bondo thing on the frame but without sounding like a complete idiot I am hearing and reading this all the time.I wonder if they use some kind of flexible filler.If someone knows could you post it.
Regular body filler can be used on the frame with no problems. We do this at the shop where I am employed. Just make sure the metal is cleaned and rust free and you will have no problems.
I was planning on using an epoxy paint on my frame as well. I priced out powder coating (high gloss black with a zinc primer) though, and have a guy here locally that can do it for $350. And that's for an F-250 frame. By the time I took a look at it, I figured it was worth the extra bucks. I'm not going to bother filling in with body filler. The reflection of the high gloss black covers a lot of sins. Besides, this ain't no trailer queen! She's gonna get driven hard!! thanks for this thread though! Now I know what I need to do before I send her off to be powder coated!!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.