okay so i have another thread from a month ago on this but it kinda faded off and i still havent figured out the problem but im narrowing it down. its been about a week since i was last able to troubleshoot because i've been dealing with the loss of a close friend in a car accident that i witnessed. anyway i thought it was the PIP signal because i am not getting a signal or even voltage from the distributor. i have replaced the distributor, tried a new coil, and replaced every fuse and diode in the engine compartment. i have voltage going into my icm but when i test the distributors pip signal nothin shows up on the test light and when its cranked no flashing or anything happens. the only 2 things not replaced have been the ECU and the ICM, although i did try a gray igniton box from a friends truck with no success( my truck uses a black box). heres a link to the site i have used to trouble shoot, https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-1 .

from what this is telling me it almost has to be my icm, but i would think the grey icm would at least given me spark right? im gonna order another icm but i think the ecu might be gone. this is all the effect of me removing the steering column for a pedal box bushing swap, i made the mistake of hooking up the battery with the igntion in the run position which blew a few fuses etc. if a new icm and ecu dont fix this could the problem be in the wiring? also i have tried 3 igntion switches all with different results( one cranks, one cranks when releasing key, one doesnt crank at all. as a way to rule the switch out i simply put the key in the on position and jump the starter solenoid right? also when the column was out i jumpered the clutch safety switch together at the red and blue wires as a bypass but have since reverted it to stock, could that have fried something up electrically?? i would really like to not pay some over priced mechanic to mess with my truck but its been over a month now and im getting tired of driving me beater camry everywhere lol. btw i know those tests in the link are for the smaller v8 but the 460 uses the same igntion system right? any help at all is appreciated before i break down and get it towed to a mechanic:/ one last thing too, if it is a problem in the wiring would entirely new wiring harnesses fix this problem? i hate dealing with electronics and at this point if the truck will only start by jumping the starter solenoid i would just make a push button start. its my weekend fun truck and i live in a very good area i'm not worried about it being stolen lol.

 

another option i had in mind was saving up the cash for the msd full igntion kit for the 460 which would replace the entire stock igntion system with a performance igntion and a rev limiter and all that fun stuff. but im assuming i would need that custom tuned right? thanks for any help its greatly appreciated.


edit- theres a guy near Atco raceway by me that has a dyno and specializes in ford tuning ive heard so i could get it done if needed, and an added bonus would be a high performance ignition system and a rev limiter for when im ripping mud holes with the good ole zf5 tranny lol forgive me if my information isnt correct im very new to the electronic side of things

 

Do you have power going to one of the small wires that hooks onto the ignition coil with the ignition switch turned ON? Use a test light.

If you have power there, remove the spout connector and crank the engine over and check for spark. If using a remote starter switch, again turn the ignition switch ON. Removing the spout connector(the thing you remove to set the timing) takes the ECU(computer) out of the equation.

 

If you disconnect the PCM Computer (unplug it) then it is no longer able to control the ignition system.
With it unplugged crank the engine and see if you have spark.
If still no spark then the PCM is not the problem of no spark.
If you now have spark the PCM is more than likely bad.

 

i have power to the coil and i have also tried unplugging the spout connector and still no spark, when i try to test the distributor i get no power at all on the test light and if im correct that power is controlled by my ICM. but the ICM has power so it would make sense i have a bad icm right?

 

i have trued that and i believe thats the same effect as unplugging the spout connector. this seems unlikely but would an obd1 scan tool show the potential problem?

 

The ICM does not control any power to the Distributor.
If you have power at the POS (+) wire of the coil then you would have the same power at the distributor and the ICM but as noted above the ICM does not control it.

I do not believe that unplugging the SPOUT is good enough. I unplug the PCM to be sure.
As I do not know if the IDM can also stop spark.

 

i ruled out the PCM at this point by unplugging it and still no spark. i also checked some other things like the check engine light turning off when cranking. i think i read the tachometer is supposed to move when cranking but mine does not which could mean there is no rpm signal present but i dont know if that would cause no spark. gonna order a new icm because alot of other variables are ruled out. so far i have checked the distributor spins, the coil distributor and icm all have power, there is no spark from the coil and a new one made no difference, ive tried multiple ignition switches, pcm checks out ok, and the most important is that im not even getting voltage on my test light when i go to check the PIP signal even after swapping the dist.

also im almost certain the icm is needed for spark because its what tells the coil when to fire after getting the PIP signal from the distributor

 

Make sure the ICM you buy is BLACK in color Your truck is not wired for the gray one.
I does sound like the ICM or the wiring between the ICM and the coil or the PIP sensor.

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