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I keep getting an intermittent P0500 code and poor shifting. Replaced the VSS twice with Ford product, replaced the VSS pigtail and inspected wiring.
My next thing was to replace the PSOM. I have read that the VSS signal passes through the PSOM before reaching the PCM.
I checked two places recommended on the forum for repair, about $200 to $225. I would be willing to pay that, if I can’t find a good used cluster.
Its hard to tell when you have actually fixed an intermittent problem.
yes Glen is correct the VSS sensor Drives the PSOM and the PSOM converts the signal from the VSS to a "Digital" signal that goes to pin 58 or pin 3 of the PCM depending on the vehicle... the signal comes out of the cluster on connector C pin 7 I believe it is a Grey/Black wire it also goes to the Speed control/Servo Amplifier assy Pin # 3
There is 2 Electrolytic Capacitors on the PSOM PCB that fail.. sometimes the MOV and the Diode near the Larger Capacitor fail and can burn traces on that board, pretty easy to repair if you have some Electronic repair skills.
Thanks for the detailed information, I have not pulled the dash out yet to inspect the module or connectors. I want to find a replacement first or decide I’m going to send it for repair. I don’t have the skill to repair a circuit board, ...probably make it worse.
the 97 F series PSOM will fit the 96... in fact 92 to 96 for bronco van and F will work but only the 97 F series is downward compatible.
the Clusters themselves Not so much, but the Guts are fine.
as long as your PSOM board looks like this...
One More TIP... always keep the gauges facing UP or in the installed position NEVER put them face down as damping fluid can leak out <<=== This TIP is From FORD.
One More TIP... always keep the gauges facing UP or in the installed position NEVER put them face down as damping fluid can leak out <<=== This TIP is From FORD.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the detailed information, I have not pulled the dash out yet to inspect the module or connectors. I want to find a replacement first or decide I’m going to send it for repair. I don’t have the skill to repair a circuit board, ...probably make it worse.
Glenn.
The dash is a bugger to get off without breaking it. The plastic in side is usually super super weak. I have to take mine off this week as well to fix the light switch. I'm dreading the removal of the dash part, not the soldering and other bs to fix the lights.
But a classic issue with these units is corrosion, you can clean them with a #2 pencil eraser.
Once the dash part is off, it's easy to get the cluster in and out, its just a t15 torqx.
yeah, I'm not sure where this Magical Fluid is either ... but look at the Tach and PSOM they have an Orange sticker warning you not to put it face down...
I'm just the messenger and I can only say what Ford Instrument handling procedures say...
most likely it would be high viscosity silicone oil on the rear bearing pot of what ever gauge as this is common practice with many damped gauges that are not fluid filled.
View of the inside of a pressure gauge with a dampened movement. The circle marks the seat of the pot with the silicone oil that accommodates the pointer pinion
I haven't taken any Ford gauge Movements apart to verify this, but feel free to experiment if you so desire... I would be curious to know or is it just another Lie from Ford, like the Fake Oil Pressure Gauge ???
[QUOTE=Talyn;18876951]The dash is a bugger to get off without breaking it. The plastic in side is usually super super weak. I have to take mine off this week as well to fix the light switch. I'm dreading the removal of the dash part, not the soldering and other bs to fix the lights.
From photos I’ve seen it seems it is held on by torx screws, is there clips or something behind it to pry out, or does it come off after removing the screws?
Also can I get new lights from the dealer to replace in the dash?
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