U-joints/front differentials replacement/fix???
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U-joints/front differentials replacement/fix???
Ok guys. I need your help again.
Just got back from a shop and they told me my U-joints are shot in the front end. As well there is fluid leaking out of the front differentials where the passenger side of the axle goes into it. This is an 88 F250 4x4, 351 with independant front suspension.
They told me it was quite an ordeal to replace the U-joints due to tearing out the whole front end. I figured if they had to tear it all apart might as well fix everything.
They said it would be a whole day or more depending on what they find to tear it all down and replace everything. Is there any one who knows if this is true. And if that is the only way I believe it is out of my league, what else would be a good thing to replace/upgrade or check out anyway.
I will be taking it in to another place to get a 2nd guess as the guy admitted to having not worked on Fords that much.
Thanks in advance.
Duff
Just got back from a shop and they told me my U-joints are shot in the front end. As well there is fluid leaking out of the front differentials where the passenger side of the axle goes into it. This is an 88 F250 4x4, 351 with independant front suspension.
They told me it was quite an ordeal to replace the U-joints due to tearing out the whole front end. I figured if they had to tear it all apart might as well fix everything.
They said it would be a whole day or more depending on what they find to tear it all down and replace everything. Is there any one who knows if this is true. And if that is the only way I believe it is out of my league, what else would be a good thing to replace/upgrade or check out anyway.
I will be taking it in to another place to get a 2nd guess as the guy admitted to having not worked on Fords that much.
Thanks in advance.
Duff
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Joined: Sep 2003
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duff,
i just went through an ordeal with my driveshaft "u" joints. the ford dealer wanted $300 to do it. the parts including the carrier bearing was $43 from the auto store, ford wanted $120 plus $180 for labor. this was my first try at replacing the "u" joints myself. while not really difficult, i learned some very valuable lessons and in the process ruined 2 sets of the 3 "u" joints. couldn't get the carrier bearing off, so i took it to a local shop where they proceeded to break the slip yoke out of the transfer case (a part no longer available through ford) and my truck basically sat for a week while i tracked down another one. picked up the drive shaft from the local repair shop and finished the job myself with some very helpful hints from people on this site. even with the problems, it was still cheaper than the dealer wanted and i have a new slip yoke to boot.
it sounds as if it will be an expensive repair, no matter which way you go. best of luck to you.
i just went through an ordeal with my driveshaft "u" joints. the ford dealer wanted $300 to do it. the parts including the carrier bearing was $43 from the auto store, ford wanted $120 plus $180 for labor. this was my first try at replacing the "u" joints myself. while not really difficult, i learned some very valuable lessons and in the process ruined 2 sets of the 3 "u" joints. couldn't get the carrier bearing off, so i took it to a local shop where they proceeded to break the slip yoke out of the transfer case (a part no longer available through ford) and my truck basically sat for a week while i tracked down another one. picked up the drive shaft from the local repair shop and finished the job myself with some very helpful hints from people on this site. even with the problems, it was still cheaper than the dealer wanted and i have a new slip yoke to boot.
it sounds as if it will be an expensive repair, no matter which way you go. best of luck to you.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Chisholm, Mn
i just tried to do it. after 2 weeks i have given up and put it back together. i am bringing it to my mechanic tommorrow. i didn't have all the "special" tools and my haynes manual doesn't tell my which ones. it's too frustrating and too damm cold. now if i ha ddo it this summer when i was suppossed to this might be a different story.
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Yea it sounds like I will be at the mercy of the shop. I don't have a place to store my truck inside and I don't have the confidence either. And with hunting season underway I don't want to spend a lot of time messing with the truck either.
Thanks, Duff
Thanks, Duff
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Joined: Jun 2003
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Just to chime in though, I would defintely recommend getting a second or even third opinion just to make sure you're not being taken for a ride. I've had a shop that I went to pretty much exclusively for all my tire, wheel and suspension work for 3 or 4 years, even related indirectly to my child try and screw me for some work I didn't need that unless I went to another place my father used I would have paid out the nose for.
Just goes to show that occasional shopping around doesn't hurt.
Just goes to show that occasional shopping around doesn't hurt.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
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Changing the U-joints ain't as hard as it may seem. The only Tool you'll need besides your everyday hand tools is a Hub socket. They cost about $20. Your first attempt will be your longest Since you'll be learning it and should take less then a day even for a first timer. If your worried about pressing for time Do oneside oneday to learn it and the other side another day. After that it'll be smooth sailing to do most any frontend work you may need. While your in the Frontend I'd go ahead and replace the Wheel bearings and the Needle bearings found on the back side of the spindle where the short shaft of the axle goes thru. You'll be already be at these bearings anyway since ya changing the frontend U-joints. Just get a good shop manual and Hub socket and you'll be good to go.
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From: US
Hey duff. I just did the job your talking about 2 months ago. Trust me its an all day ordeal and our gona need help hoisting the front diff back in. Yea it has to come out. First rip apart both sides of the front end all the way down to the spindels. Both shafts need to be removed. You will need a hub socket. WHat size is your hub? Larger than a dana 44? You can ghet the socket at napa because its bigger than the 44 socket. You will need an air chisle to get the stub od the spindle off. Tear the dricversside down till the axle slide out. This is the easy side. On the pas do the same as the drivers but when you get to the axle shaft craw under the truck and find the ruber boot in the middle of the pass axle shaft. remove the clips and save the boot. if its good. Once the boot is loosened the outer part of the shaft will slide out. Newx you e have to drop the front center section. two bolts on the driver sde of the case on the bolts around the front. It is very heavy. Remove it. Onnce out. rotate the inner part of the shaft till you find the retaining clip between the spider gears. pop it out and slide out the shaft. now you can change all the seals . each side of the diff is a differntseal. plush new seals on the back of the rotor, and two on the end of the axle shafts. All seals, 3 joints, fluid, and brake pads, was around $300.
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Thanks, Tsheriff that is all that I need to know. Took it to my main shop and they are going to do it for around $300. I am going that route as I don't have any gearhead buddies to walk me through or help me out.
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They are pretty good about giving accurate estimates. In most cases they have overshot the estimate, so when I picked it up the bill was noticablely smaller. Which is much better than the other way. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it goes alright for them.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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