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I need to install a fitting in the coolant bypass on my new Edelbrock Performer intake. What I am thinking of doing is tapping threads (3/8-18 NPT) into the manifold and installing a brass barbed fitting. I figure this will make for easy replacement of the fitting in the future should the need arise. The alternative is to hammer in a brass pipe to serve as a replacement to the factory steel fitting or purchase the fitting for about $25 and hammering it in; I like brass. I may have to cut the fitting down one or two barbs for clearance which is not a big deal.
To be honest I am a bit leery about cutting threads into a $400 manifold but no more than hammering something into it. I thought I would check myself by asking for feedback. Any reason I shouldn’t proceed?
Threading it is a good thing. Just make sure you keep the tap straight, or the nipple will be aimed out of whack with back of water pump.
Just adjust how deep you tap the manifold to get the fitting to get down as low as possible, that way you don't have to shorten the barb section very much. Not so much you bottom the hex out!!!!
If things get really bad, you can always tap it 1/2" and use a reducer. Of course this will lengthen it more and cause issues. They may even make a 1/2" npt with proper barb?
Threading it is a good thing. Just make sure you keep the tap straight, or the nipple will be aimed out of whack with back of water pump.
Just adjust how deep you tap the manifold to get the fitting to get down as low as possible, that way you don't have to shorten the barb section very much. Not so much you bottom the hex out!!!!
If things get really bad, you can always tap it 1/2" and use a reducer. Of course this will lengthen it more and cause issues. They may even make a 1/2" npt with proper barb?
I am pretty comfortable with cutting threads and being aluminum it’s forgiving. Being a brand new intake installed on a new engine I figure it’s worth the discussion as it can’t be undone. I just ordered the tap so I will do this as soon as it comes in.
I seem to remember this was tried years ago and it was ultimately figured out that because brass is cathodic the corrosion eats the threads out of the aluminum and causes leaks.
I seem to remember this was tried years ago and it was ultimately figured out that because brass is cathodic the corrosion eats the threads out of the aluminum and causes leaks.
Or... use an aluminum fitting and alleviate all concerns.
Or just thread the hole and plug it with an allen plug and ditto for the matching port on the waterpump and use the heater bung and route that to the nipple on the outside of the waterpump. That way there's nothing to worry about in the future as far as leaks to be repaired. Lot easier to change an external hose instead of that pesky short hose between the pump and intake
Or just thread the hole and plug it with an allen plug and ditto for the matching port on the waterpump and use the heater bung and route that to the nipple on the outside of the waterpump. That way there's nothing to worry about in the future as far as leaks to be repaired. Lot easier to change an external hose instead of that pesky short hose between the pump and intake
Have you done this to your truck before? DO you have a pic of it? I just cant picture what youre talking about because my 70 f250 is not at my house at the moment.
Have you done this to your truck before? DO you have a pic of it? I just cant picture what youre talking about because my 70 f250 is not at my house at the moment.
Remove the bypass nipples from the intake and waterpump, then drill tap and plug the holes. Then use the heater hose fittings connected with a short hose to serve as the bypass hose. Never done it, but it's possible.
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