Brake bleeding experts need apply :)
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 505
Likes: 34
From: Brandenburg, KY
Brake bleeding experts need apply :)
Ok. Here’s my issue on my truck. I felt like the brake pedal wasn’t quite firm enough after I changed to the 8.8 rear end a few weeks ago. I had bled the brakes when I swapped it out but I tried again today. I got some clear hose so I could see what was going on better.
My setup: 4 wheel disc with master cylinder mounted to the frame under the cab. I’ve looked at every fitting closely and don’t see any fluid. I had my daughter pump the pedal as I watched the hose. Each rear caliper flowed only fluid out. No air bubbles so I then went to the front passenger side. Here’s where air bubbles kept coming out no matter how long we bled it. Even with the pedal released and no pressure, air bubbles kept slowly coming from the caliper. Any ideas?
My setup: 4 wheel disc with master cylinder mounted to the frame under the cab. I’ve looked at every fitting closely and don’t see any fluid. I had my daughter pump the pedal as I watched the hose. Each rear caliper flowed only fluid out. No air bubbles so I then went to the front passenger side. Here’s where air bubbles kept coming out no matter how long we bled it. Even with the pedal released and no pressure, air bubbles kept slowly coming from the caliper. Any ideas?
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 505
Likes: 34
From: Brandenburg, KY
Yes I have them. I know that my pedal will travel farther now because the rear disc uses more fluid than the drums but I don’t understand all the air in the front caliper with no visible leaks.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 232
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Make sure when she pushes on the pedal that she lets it up slowly, or you might draw just a tiny bit of air back in. I'd assume if the caliper was leaking, you'd see fluid coming out of it. Other than that, maybe there's some junk on the nipple and it's letting some air get in around the edges of it, not coming from the inside of the brake system.
The good news is that there's only so many places that air could be coming from, so I'm sure you'll find it.
The good news is that there's only so many places that air could be coming from, so I'm sure you'll find it.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 505
Likes: 34
From: Brandenburg, KY
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Brandenburg, KY
Yes sir it is. Thank you
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Ok so my situation may be just a bit different but may help. I also have disc brakes all around with residual pressure valves. Here is my story. I installed everything and when I went to bleed my brake system there was a flaw in the brake light switch T that ruined one of my flares and caused a leak. I got discouraged and it was spring time so I stopped working on it. A year and a half and one baby later I got back to it, fixed the leak, bled the brakes again and tried them. Here is where it got weird, when I would bleed the fronts you would have to stand on the brake pedal to have anything come out and when it did it came all at once. So the brakes weren't working properly so I ended up taking out those RPVs and presto, no more standing on the brakes to bleed them and they actually work really well now. Another thing I ended up doing was putting my vaccum hookup directly to the manifold and not to the port on the Fitech. Helped out getting more vacuum I think. Maybe you just don't need those RPVs, I thought I would after doing some reading but that wasn't the case. Hope this helps.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 505
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From: Brandenburg, KY
You do need them if the master cylinder is lower than the caliper. That’s why they make 2 lbs pressure valve for discs. 10 lbs for drums.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,198
Likes: 4,807
From: Burbank, WA
It may be a case where the valve is already in the m/c, and adding a second valve messed up the pressure. As Greg said, if the master is below the floor, which is below the brake hydraulics, you need the valves.