Hi All,

I have had my F250 for about two weeks. It is a 1986 F250 6.9 NA 4x4 with crew cab and manual transmission. It was a two owner vehicle, fairly-well maintained and I don't think it ever towed much or saw much serious work. I have owned and worked on a variety of diesels, but this is my first Ford truck.

I have a few questions. Hopefully, someone can point me to the right information:

1) I can't find my crankcase ventilator. Where should this be located? I have been looking around the intake and air filter. Is it perhaps under the air filter? I inherited an animal nest in that area and am not ready to pressure wash it just yet.

2) The previous owner used 50/50 coolant. I would like to determine how to add SCAs to it. The two brands I have seen are Nalcool and Napakool. How should I start using these? I know it is not as necessary, being a 6.9 but I am planning to keep this truck for awhile.

3) My steering is a little sloppy. I am going to work on tightening up the front suspension. Which items will require an immediate alignment? For example, on cars the tie rods would require an alignment.

4) I was disappointed to discover it seems very difficult to find these trucks in junkyards. It seems there is a lot of parts compatibility with other Ford vehicles. Are there any tools or ways to find out which parts are compatible to pull items from a junkyard?

5) I have heard that the stock gauges are almost worthless. If I installed an oil pressure gauge, where would the sensor be attached?

Thanks,

h.ubk

 

1.... it's on the back of the intake manifold..
2 .... look into adding a Coolant Filter with SCA
3 ..... better check all the bushings and tie rod ends, ball joints etc etc
4 ...... Rock Auto is handy for crossing parts
5 .... there is nothing wrong with Factory Gauges.... look for the Oil Pressure sender MOD ... DuckDuckGo is your friend....


EDIT: Contrary to popular belief, I have personally seen 6.9 failed blocks due to Cavitation ... in Fact I had a 6.9 and a 7.3 fail from Cavitation, the 6.9 had just over 700K miles and the 7.3 had 400K miles ......

 

Body interchange able parts are basically 80-86 for trim, door panels, gauges, ect. Seats will bolt in 80-97. Diesels started in 83 and a lot of parts are the same through early 94, especially up til 92 if you need anything off the front of the motor as 92.5 they went to serpentine.

Oil sender is at the very back of the motor behind the end of the intake and down a little bit. You can buy an electronic gauge and it should come with an electric one wire sender if you don't want to run the oil line into the cab for the fully mechanical. If you do use copper line.

F250 had the dana 44ttb and most recommend going to the dana 60 that's a straight axle instead of independent as they're tougher and easier to align. Not necessary if you stay at or under 35" tires and they ride a little smoother than the straight axles.

If you change the tie rods I normally pull them as a set all together, just disconnect at the wheel and gearbox and then place it on the tailgate and count the exposed threads and build the new set to match. That'll give you time to set an appointment for an alignment as where I'm at nobody ever does it walk in.

Cat elc, which is just rebranded mobile delvac elc coolant is popular around here for guys running heavy equipment. It's already mixed and you'll need 8 gallons.

The elc additive is supposed to be good for 500k miles and these trucks don't need a coolant filter, those became popular with the Ford 6.0's because of the oil cooler design and egr coolers but it wouldn't hurt to have one and you can get the filters precharged with the sca's and run the cheaper coolant if you want.

Have your looks out for an idi van as they have the gear driven power steering pump that's a lot better. You'll need the pump and the brackets for it as there different. Grab the line too. You'll have to bend it different ways but the pickup line doesn't fit the back of the pump and the pickup pump bung won't fit the saginaw pump.

If your rear end ever goes out fine one 91ish and up and somewhere in there they went to a long pinion sterling 10.25 and there better than our short pinion rear ends.

If your ever in your front end messing with the wheel bearings torque the living **** out of the outer nut as I've had them come loose several times and eat my lockers up. I also locktite them now.

Be sure to only run motorcraft (beru) glow plugs or else you'll be fighting them to come out and possibly pulling a head off.

If you want more power keep your eyes out for a complete turbo kit. Junk yard would be your best bet.

 

Welcome to the site. Post some pics when you get a chance.

 

Thanks for the replies. Here are some pics of the truck. Not seen in the picture is the huge bumper winch which shows it's deep redneck heritage.

h.ubk

 

Nice clean looking truck, you did good. Looks like you are a Mercedes Diesel guy also?

As the herd gets thinned down you will find less and less of these trucks in the JY`s. We
are dry now as far as any Diesels in the yards around here in northern NV. When I do come
across one, I grab the IP`s and Injectors for cores, have a couple Intake manifolds. That wire
screen over the intake under the Air Cleaner, I grab those if in good shape. Might help keeping
nuts and bolts from being dropped down the intake. Those are NLA as far as I know.

Check the Bell housing for the Rubber Boot for the Clutch Fork. Those are NLA as far as I know.
I have found 2 good one`s.

If the Core Support is good, pull it. I have found one good one so far. When they have their 50%
sale I grab any good doors, Whole door for $25 - $30 with everything, can`t beat that. Finding a
good door not dented up from PNP by then moving them around with the Fork Lifts is difficult
some times as well as Fenders. Grab the Hinges with the door, if it is separate they will charge
for the Hinge. Just have to check PNP.com or row52.com for stuff coming in, row 52 when you
sign up, they will let you know what comes in via E-mail.

This your first Ford Diesel? More will follow you home. Can`t have too may parts or stuff.


Does it have a Goose neck Hitch or 5th Wheel set up? I see some brackets behind the R/R wheel
against the frame. I just removed mine so I can pull the bed for a 38 Gallon fuel tank install. One
bolt was so rusted going up through the bed I had to use a cutting torch to cut through the bracket
to get to the Bolt.

The way you are parked hanging over the Side Walk. my Bro in Law lived in Livermore, Ca. There
were some snooty neighbors on their daily afternoon walk, would turn any one in for blocking the SW.
And a ticket could be issued.

Happy Truckin.

Charlie

 

Yes, I just do diesel. I have a Mercedes 300D and a VW TDI and now this.

I hope not. Three is a good number and I do have a need for each of them. The TDI is destined to find a new home in a Suzuki Samurai or Geo Tracker at some point in the future.

Yes, it has a 5th wheel setup. I am still working on learning the wiring and towing details. I am planning to use this house to help build a house and then afterwards as a farm truck / plow truck with for occassional towing.

Yep, that could happen. Over here, you can get a ticket issued for just looking the wrong way at something.

h.ubk