1992 F150 straight 6 auto....I know this should be a easy diagnostic but I can’t seem to stop the noise. I’m only hearing it after driving home roughly at miles but I could just not be hearing it during commute. Sounds/feels like front driver side.

What’s been done within the last month or so due to old age:
Front passenger:
new rotor
inner and outer bearings
brake pads
Front driver side:
Turned rotor
new inner/outer bearings
brake pads
Rear:
pulled drums on both sides inspected and cleaned. Everything look fairly new from springs to pads. Left it alone.

was thinking next step is to get new front drivers side rotor as the old one was worth turning but was getting thin....after that caliper diagnostic to see if maybe they are causing it?

suggestions?

 

Rotors should always be replaced or turned in pairs as should pads. Rear shoes have a wear limit thickness you can measure as do the drums. Sandy

Rear shoes have a measurement for thickness you can do as do the drums.

 

So I should have just bought 2 rotors....I blame my wife, she was griping at the money I was spending on a 27 year old truck that weekend.

i knew better I should have just done both. It needs it so I’ll replace this weekend and hope that’s it.

thanks sandy

 

Welcome. I just added to my list for you.

 

You could check that the dust shield isn’t touching/ rubbing on the rotor. Did you put the hubs back together correctly? While engine size is good to know for engine related issues it is completely irrelevant here and you didn’t mention if this truck is 2 or 4wd. There is a minimum thickness for a rotor so how thin is thin? For ~ $30-40 you paid to have the rotor machined, you could have purchased a new one. The braking system is not the place where you should look to save money. Do you need the drilled and slotted rotors? No, the basic replacement part is fine for everyday use and do not cost that much. I don’t even bother to get rotors machined since the price is about the same and the thinner rotor has a tendency to warp compared to the thicker new part.

 

A overview of the truck seems like its always asked thats why i put basic info, sometimes more is required for an answer sometimes it isnt and of course i left out crucial info lol..its 2wd.

So everything went back together correctly pretty easy job but i was careful because brake jobs can be tedious or a cake walk and this one went smooth. As far as what is "thin" i couldn't tell you the measurement, it was within spec at o'reilys but could be replaced soon, i wasnt trying to save money they only had 1 rotor at the time so i bought it but didnt order the other one i had to get what i had installed and put back together that same day. we left for vacation 2 days later and were gone for 8 days and honestly forgot about it until monday when i noticed the noise . I didnt pay $30-$40 for the turn either, that seems ridiculously high. they charge $5 to turn a rotor but in my case it was actually free because they told me they took to long to get it done which wasn't true as i dropped it off and picked it up 30 minutes later, guess they were just trying to help me out since they only had one rotor at the time

i double checked the dust shield as well, i was hoping that was the problem and the first thing i thought of when i heard it as well. Like i said before i think my next step is a new rotor, i knew better but just ran out of time.

 

how are your wheel bearings?

 

first post, replaced, inner/outer both sides

 

I should have been more clear: have you rechecked them after installation? When I did mine, they needed to be tightened down a little bit a couple months later

 

Then you did not correctly seat the bearings when first installed.

 

They were good after install and still good on second inspection sunday. Race ways showed no signs of wear bearings still in great shape and everything seated properly. I even replaced the old dust covers on the front that were beat to hell and then bought new center caps for all 4 wheels.

 

Gotcha, that's good. Another thing to check would be your caliper sliders... they are the sleeves that the bolts go through.

As far as the bearings go, I will freely admit mine weren't seated properly. Having never done them before, I didn't want to go too tight because the internet says that's very bad. Without knowing someone else's skill set, and knowing my experiences, I usually go back to "well what have you done recently." Hopefully there's no offense.

You did have the rotor turned, so technically it "shouldn't" be the issue. For example, Ford wouldn't replace both rotors if only one needed to be replaced.