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Hello everyone first time on here hopefully you can help.
So the head lights where going on and off found out it was the switch so I replaced the headlights switch and they worked fine but after that the taillights running lights stopped working the brakes turn hazard and front running lights work the bulbs are good and fuse is good and the grounds all look good so I’m at a stand still for now and it’s my daily
Last edited by 1984hays; Aug 8, 2019 at 07:52 PM.
Reason: Spelling
I just plugged the old switch in to see if they worked and they still don’t so I mean u might be right I just really don’t want to re wire that plug under the dash not much room
I assume you are talking about a 1984 .... if so check Fuse #4 and make sure you have power on Pin A of the light switch and power on Pin R of the light switch when it is pulled to the Park Position .... if you put 12 Volts to The Connector Pin R then your Marker lights should all light up.
you can get a Pigtail IF needed .... like the image
IF I wasn't Clear Fuse #4 Feeds Pin A on the light switch Tan/Wht wire and Pin R is what feeds the running/park lamps it's a Brown wire and it also feeds the Headlight ON reminder Buzzer.
Ok awesome I’m definitely checking that tomorrow. Thank you so if fails the test just replace the plug and she should be good because fuse #4 is good I checked it already and it is the proper 15amp fuse for its spot the buzzer has never work for me so could that mean the buzzer is bad or was that a indicator saying this stuff was going out ?
And yes she’s a 84 3/4 ton 4x4 6.9 diesel 4sp and I just got it from a buddy that has no car know how so I traded my 08ranger and some cash on his side for it to help him out and he just drove her from central California to San Antonio and I drove her from there to east Tx and the only Big problems are head lights witch I fixed lmao now tail lights and a license plate light that I’m going to hook up after the lights are working properly and then then fix the a/c up I’ve already added the new pump
the tabs might be broken off on the original...... a previous owner may have removed the buzzer and tossed it in a trash can somewhere
just visually inspect your connector to make sure it does not have fried connectors in it and that none of the connectors have backed out of the Plug housing.
just using a jumper wire From +12V to the Brown Wire in the connector should fire up the park lights, BUT I prefer to just use a Meter to check voltage (you could use a 12 Volt Teat light in place of a meter.
When my original headlight switch failed I ran into the same problem. The center pin is the feed for the running lights iirc and it burned out of the connector. Only damage that was done.
Now like you I noticed on these bullnose trucks there is literally no room to splice over a new plug. I figured I would literally have to pull the dash back to do it properly.
What I ended up doing was running a wire from a fuse box all time hot, to an inline fuse and then added a female spade and ran it through the hole in the connector. Hasn't given me any trouble yet and that was three or more years ago. I closed the spade together so it was a nice tight fit.
Also on mine the feed wire for all the running lights runs down behind the driver side kick panel, one time a wire came loose where it was poorly spliced before and I lost running lights. No idea why someone was in there. Added a connector and it's been working for a couple years now.
Wish you luck if you have to swap the whole plug! Let us know how it goes.
The original Ford factory headlight switches would not carry the amperage and they all overheated over time. A real common problem. Besides the switch burning out, the wires and plug at the switch often burned out too due to the hot switch. Napa stocks two switches plus the plug in and wires, one is an Echlin which is more expensive and it WILL carry truck & trailer light amps. On most of the early pickups it's not too difficult to get to the plug and wires for replacement if you pull the bottom plastic panel and stand on your head under the dash.
yeah, weak HL switch and weak spades in the connectors, I've had em melt the insulation on the wires a foot into the doggone harness what a PIA it can be.
IF you are going to splice in a new harness Please use a good Crimp tool and the correct size Butt splices, or you will be doing it again in a short time if you use headlights very much.
I use the Ideal 30-503......you can buy this style Crimp tool cheap from Fleabay or Aliexpress.
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