Hello all, I have an issue with the ignition switch that’s mounted on my steering column. I replaced it last year & ever since, with continued use, it moves & will not crank until I drop the column & reset it. I recently snapped off one of the two bolts that hold it in place & now just having the one holding it, it’s moving & needing adjustments more frequently, which is a huge pain. Can the broken bolt be replaced? Has anyone else here had the same issue & how did you remedy it? The next time it needs adjusting, I’m adding a lock washer. Hopefully this will slow down the movement of the buss/switch. Thanks in advance!!

 

just a quick "off top of my head" thought, until you find out more, is it possible to buy couple large worm gear hose clamps, and put one above and one below moving switch to keep it in place? You can open worm gear clamp, put one above, one below, reinsert tab end back into worm gear and tighten down. Clamps will work fine like that, as long as you don't screw up the inserting tab back into worm gear and bend stuff. But, that should keep your switch from jogging around on you?

 

First no I have not had that issue but I am still building the truck.
Pull the switch off the column as you may get lucky and the broken part sticks up to grab it and unscrew it.

You might get it adjusted right and use hose clamps to hold it in place.
Dave - - - -

 

Are those studs or bolts? My '84 has protruding studs and the switch is secured by nuts. If your truck likewise has studs, it could be very difficult to replace the broken one.

Like the others, I also wondered if a big hose clamp would work. Doesn't look like it, as the switch's mounting ears are next to each other one side. You'd need the ears to be on opposite ends. With the ears one one side, you'd have to run the clamp over the switch body and connector. That would pull the switch in all cockeyed.

One thought is to make a T-shaped adapter to make up for the broken stud. Some steel plate maybe 3/32" thick would be about right. The base of the tee would be slightly longer than the switch body. The end of the base would have a hole to fit over the unbroken stud. At the far end of the base, just below the top of the tee, weld a stud for the second mounting hole. Next, bend the top of the tee in a curve to match the diameter of the steering column. Put this adapter in place and secure a big hose clamp over the top of the tee and around the steering column. Voila! Now you've got two studs to secure the switch.

 

If you HAD to, you can remove 10mm nuts (think they are) lift elec switch off studs, push off top of lower steering column toward gas pedal. You can operate manually with one hand gripping, other hand using phillips head screwdriver in slider slot of elec switch to start vehicle, and push back up under dash out of way as needed. I wouldn't want to do this forever, but I did it for a short while on my flatbed as I continued to fight issues.