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Can someone explain clutch adjustment?

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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 09:36 AM
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Can someone explain clutch adjustment?


64 F100 223 3 spd

Just replaced my clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwiut bearing, and clutch return spring. When I set the push rod as specified by the manual, I have no clutch. Maybe I'm understanding the manual wrong?

According to the manual, it sounds as if you should have the TO fork completely retracted with the spring, and then adjust the tapered nut to sitting with 1/4" gap between the nut and fork. Is that correct? It doesnt seem to be. Even pushing the clutch fully to the floor, I dont even begin to engage with the pressure plate.

To have the proper pedal free play, I have to run the tapered nut almost all the way to the end of the the push rod.

And might I add that I have no noticeable play in the linkage from the pedal to the push rod.

Thoughts?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 09:45 AM
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I do the opposite, take the spring off and put the throw out bearing against the clutch fingers then adjust the 1/4". That will give you about 1" of free play at the pedal..
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
I do the opposite, take the spring off and put the throw out bearing against the clutch fingers then adjust the 1/4". That will give you about 1" of free play at the pedal..
That makes a whole lot more sense there, maybe I just read the manual wrong. Thanks for that.
 

Last edited by Mearntain; Aug 4, 2019 at 10:09 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 10:17 AM
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just looked at the manual again it definitely says with the spring attached, that doesnt make sense to me.

(This is was taken from the P series section, the F-serries was kind of blurry but says with spring attached as well)
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 11:04 AM
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I think it's is a little confusing, I think they mean the PEDAL spring, thats a different spring then the CLUTCH arm return spring. The clutch arm return spring isn't for the pedal return..
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 11:07 AM
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I've pretty much got the tapered nut driven to the end of the rod right now and have barely gotten to the minimum free play adjustment. Does that sound right? As in I'm far enough down the rod that if I move the tapered nut maybe 7 more threads, I'm coming off the rod
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Mearntain
I've pretty much got the tapered nut driven to the end of the rod right now and have barely gotten to the minimum free play adjustment. Does that sound right? As in I'm far enough down the rod that if I move the tapered nut maybe 7 more threads, I'm coming off the rod
That doesn't sound right..
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
That doesn't sound right..
Somethings definitely not right for sure, even more pressing than the the clutch fork adjustment now.

My motors locked up and wont turn by key or by hand. No clue what I could have done to cause that. It was turning by hand just fine during the replacement because i had to turn it by hand to access all 3 sets of pressure plate bolts...
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 12:33 PM
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When you replaced the pilot bearing did you check it on the tail shaft first? Also never use the steel bearing always use oiled bronze (available at Summit racing).
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Christmas
When you replaced the pilot bearing did you check it on the tail shaft first? Also never use the steel bearing always use oiled bronze (available at Summit racing).
I didnt check it on the shaft prior to installing it, but I did use the new bearing for sizing a bolt up with tape to the exact size of the hole for hydraulically removing the old one (which had same fitment around the bolt), so ID should be identical. It was a steel one that came out and steel one that went back in, I wasnt aware that they made others.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 12:49 PM
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YIKES!! Did you change pressure plate bolts by any chance? Too long and they could catch on the block..
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mearntain
I didnt check it on the shaft prior to installing it, but I did use the new bearing for sizing a bolt up with tape to the exact size of the hole for hydraulically removing the old one (which had same fitment around the bolt), so ID should be identical. It was a steel one that came out and steel one that went back in, I wasnt aware that they made others.
Steel on steel with no lubrication is not good. Oiled bronze is it's own lubrication and will provide years of service. When you sit with clutch pedal in that pilot shaft is trying to spin free of the motor, do it for to long and heat build up is inevitable.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 01:11 PM
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Another guess, did you accidentally get the trans shifted into two gears when installing or connecting linkage?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 01:14 PM
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I did hit one of the link arms by accident while working on it, but I'm pretty sure I got it back to where it was supposed to be. I can roll the truck when in neutral, so I think I'm good there.

I did have 2 sets of bolts that had me confused when reassembling. 1 set of 6 short bolts and 1 set of 6 long bolts. I started off trying to put the small ones in, but they would never seem to catch, so I tried the long and they worked. Pretty sure the short ones were supposed to go to the flywheel access cover and long ones to the pressure plate. Being I could spin it all the way until putting the last 2 bolts to torque, i dont think they're catching.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 03:05 PM
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Have you tried rotating the engine in the opposite direction by hand?
 
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