Money pit?
I just bought myself a 1979 F-250 4wd this weekend, and my initial experiences are suggesting to me that I just got in over my head.
I live in dry, Southern Arizona, so I did the sensible thing and bought a truck that was imported from the Yukon
. Loads of rust aside, it seemed to be in pretty good shape. It failed on the carbon part of the emissions test this morning. So, I replace the (really old) plugs and wires, and leaned out the mixture. The engine fire that pointed out the gas leak in the carb was exciting.
Lots of corrosion. I'm wondering if I'm going to be constantly throwing money at this.
My sig shows the info I got from the vin number (X26SKDE6236). The plate looks completely different from the plate on Mil1ions site. There are no axle codes on it that I can see.
Here is what I got off the axle plates:
Rear: 4 10 D8TA SB 603901-4 LS
Front: 4 09 D8TA AG0 810040-4
Transfer case: 8 205
What do you guys think, is it worth hanging on to?
Your rear axle is a 4.10 geared Dana 60 Limited Slip, which is very dependable. The front is a Dana 44 4.09 geared open (one wheel wonder), it is also pretty strong.
A word of caution, do not engage 4x4 on a hard pavement road, you will do serious damage to the 4x4 system (xfer case, axles, driveshafts, hubs)
Your transfer case is an NP 205, it is also really strong, you have a 4x2, 4x4, neutral, and 4x4 low selections.
Your truck is very much worth hanging on too, I hope you get your emmisions problems solved though. Good luck, and welcome to FTE. If you have any questions, search the forum first, you are likely to find the answer there.
When I first got my 78, it was going to be a $1000 off road truck. I was only going to fix what HAD to be fixed in order to beat it up. What I failed to realize is that one thing leads to another.
My brakes were really weak so I thought I'd replace the shoes, but everything I touched with a wrench broke in one way or another. When all was said & done, the only thing I didn't replace was the prorortioning valve and master cyl..
A leaky oil pan gasket lead to new rings, rod bearings, main bearings, timing set, freeze plugs and new lifters.
All the seals in the axles, t-case, & engine were replaced, too.
Granted, most of the parts were under $10 each, but when you need 30 or 40 of them, they add up fast.
Although I spent WAY more that I originally intended, the experience and knowledge I gained was well worth it.
I'm sure you'll feel the same after a while.
Kevin K.
mattsbox99:
Thanks or the advice on the axles. Any advice on what I should look for since I did in fact engage the 4wd on hard pavement during the test drive?
dfisher1:
As far as I can tell, it is all stock, except for some rather bad wiring additions (corroded wiretaps everywhere, I really detest wiretaps). The fire wasn't big, although it did cook the front side of the carbuerator and probably did some damage to some of the new plug wires I just put in. The previous owner had been filling it with synthetic oil, and it looks very clean. But, I'm going to go ahead and change it and the filter anyway.
I'm looking at rebuilding the carbuerator now. Can anyone help me identify the one in the truck? All it has where I would expect the tag to be, is the raised Motorcraft lettering.
Thanks again guys.
If you've ever restored one of these beauties, you better be well employed. I dropped $3800 in one month on my 76F100. That was 3 years ago and I'm still not done with that one yet. Any vehicle is expensive. The trick is, to pick one you love. I mean really LOVE! Because it will be the only thing left after the old lady packs her bags. I think I made the right decision!
KingFisher
You've got the stock motorcraft 2 barrel. Look for the metal tab under one of the top cover screws. Sometimes they are still there. When you buy the rebuild kit, it will be for a dozen different models. Some of the parts are for you, some aren't.
It's pretty easy.
KingFisher
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You are probably going to be okay, I don't know how long you drove like that, you might be okay if the front tires had most of their tread left on them and the backs were pretty slick. That would make the final ratios closer.
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The treads on all the tires are pretty good. They'd be great if they weren't dry-rotted from sitting in the sun for a couple years.
hahahahahhah
Why do people think that if they hang onto a old piece of crap it will be worth something. Tony you should first buy a FOR SALE sign and try to get your money back. 2nd research the vehicle you really really want. Save up and scoop. I'd rather try to take the runner up of Ms. America and make her prom Queen then the ugly chick in the back of the class holla if you hear me


