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Hey all. the dash on my f350 burned out by the voltage gauge. After that it would turn over but die immediately. Can this be the cause? I found a few new dashes on eBay but I'm not sure if they are interchangeable. Mine has mechanical gauges while the one I'm looking at has a lightbulb for the battery and oil. If it's a 73-78 dash are all those interchangeable? Thanks in advance for the help getting my truck back on the road.
X2 on NO the instrument clusters are not interchangeable between warning lights and sweep gauges. I believe different pin count on the wiring harness. Also believe you can order just a printed circuit panel?
The amp gauge is a shunt type gauge and just samples the current. It's a small wire that kind of follows the main power wire path. If the main power wire was damaged somehow to many amps may have tried to follow those small wires. You need to look for other damage on the main power feed before replacing the circuit board.
Does it make sense it was the battery? I just got a brand new one. Also all the other wiring looks to be intact. Is there a way to get it running somehow without the dash working properly? Maybe a bypass or something?
It should run without the dash plugged in. At least mine would.
When you say "new" dashes on ebay, do you mean printed circuit? Plastic housing? or both.
Like mentioned above you can get the printed circuit board from various suppliers.
My original plastic housing crumbled to bits, so I got a new one from LMC. I am happy with it.
If yours is original and hasn't crumbled yet it probably will. You might as well replace both.
It should run without the dash plugged in. At least mine would.
When you say "new" dashes on ebay, do you mean printed circuit? Plastic housing? or both.
Like mentioned above you can get the printed circuit board from various suppliers.
My original plastic housing crumbled to bits, so I got a new one from LMC. I am happy with it.
If yours is original and hasn't crumbled yet it probably will. You might as well replace both.
I meant the whole assembly. I figured just replace the whole unit because most of the gauge were busted when I opened it up. I just want to drive it around a bit to make sure it's seaworthy before I start throwing money at it. That's why I wanted to know if I can run I to without the dash plugged in. I did try earlier today and nothing happened when I turned the key. I'll try again tomorrow though now that I know it's possible.
Not an expert...but believe some of the ignition circuit is run through the harness that connects to the back of the gauge cluster, maybe something needs to ground out up there...cant remember from when I rewired my truck.
Regardless...you can easily bypass the key switch "if you know how" and drive the truck around.
I worked backwards from the lmc catalog to what was interchangeable the only difference is the Speedo goes until 80 not 100 but that's not past of the circuit anyways. Also I can always swap that out for the original later.
When you replaced the battery did you change the cable? All the power wires for the truck meet the positive cable at the starter solenoid. All connections need to be clean and tight. There is a backup nut on the solenoid posts. Use 2 wrenches to tighten or loosen cables.
I didn't touch any of the cables other than putting in the new battery.
The truck did run for a few minutes prior too cooking the circuit board. But It did stall intermittently before that. I don't know if that has anything to do with it cooking the board though.
Seems like a fusible link would protect that trace. Is/are your fusible link(s) there?
You said voltage gauge, is it one of the new volt gauges or the original ammeter (D alt C)? Either way, there is some problem causing that trace to burn up. If it's a volt gauge,, it would only need one input from the circuit board, with a ground replacing the other. Ammeters use two positive inputs.
Only time I've seen a trace burn up like that on one of those floppy printed circuit boards was when the previous owner grounded the Pioneer AM/FM/Cassette to the illumination wire, and he apparently bypassed the fuse. He had a toggle switch rigged up, but I fixed all of that stuff back to OEM.
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