Can we talk integrated brake controllers??
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,975
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From: Archdale,N.C.
Can we talk integrated brake controllers??
OK, so we're pulling our travel trailer with a 2014 F250 Lariat 6.7. So even with the brake controller gain at 10-max, and being applied by the slide switch it won't lock the wheels on gravel, let alone stop the rig. I'm in the process of repacking the bearings and adjusting the brakes on the camper. I did the drivers side today and know for a fact that they're adjusted correctly and it made no difference in braking.. Using the slide switch. I confirmed that I have power energizing the magnets (at least on the drivers side). Now.. We used to pull it with our 99 F250 7.3 using a Tekonsha P2 brake controller and never had this problem. The 2014 isn't giving any error codes and reads and displays the message that the trailer is connected. I have it set for electric brakes, not electric over hydraulic. As far as the integrated brake controllers am I missing a setting?? The P2 controller in my 99 has a boost setting, meaning that when you applied the brakes it would start the braking at a little higher level separate from the gain setting. If anyone has any ideas please feel free to share. Thanks
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,975
Likes: 19
From: Archdale,N.C.
Thanks, I've been through all the settings I can find and the gain is the only adjustment there is.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Frederick, MD
2014 won't have the high, med and low settings.
When you did your drivers side brakes on the trailer, could you tell that they were working? As in brake dust from the shoes?
As far as the magnets are concerned, can you post a pic? are they wore out and not engaging on the drum.
Best way to confirm power truly is going to be with an amp guage. Ideally you would have 3 amps per wheel.
Depending upon how your wiring is run, generally the drivers side of the trailer (utility side) is where the power comes to the brakes then it jumps to the other side by way of the axles. These manufactures run the wires through the axles and don't use a heavy enough gage to get the most amps to the other side. So weak door side brakes maybe another factor. Compare the two sides for wear and brake dust.
When you did your drivers side brakes on the trailer, could you tell that they were working? As in brake dust from the shoes?
As far as the magnets are concerned, can you post a pic? are they wore out and not engaging on the drum.
Best way to confirm power truly is going to be with an amp guage. Ideally you would have 3 amps per wheel.
Depending upon how your wiring is run, generally the drivers side of the trailer (utility side) is where the power comes to the brakes then it jumps to the other side by way of the axles. These manufactures run the wires through the axles and don't use a heavy enough gage to get the most amps to the other side. So weak door side brakes maybe another factor. Compare the two sides for wear and brake dust.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Frederick, MD
As far as the TBC is concerned, while traveling at low speed and just using the controller you should be able to stop both truck and trailer and may be able to lock the wheels up depending upon the surface you are driving on.
Applying the truck brakes will not lock the trailer up since it is now part of the truck braking system and the ABS won't allow a lock up.
Applying the truck brakes will not lock the trailer up since it is now part of the truck braking system and the ABS won't allow a lock up.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2011
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Also keep in mind that the trailer braking is very little below 11 MPH when using the foot brake.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Frederick, MD
Yes, I think even the owners manual indicates a speed of 25 mph before attempting to adjust the TBC. I think it may also call for a setting around 5 or 6 when first hooking up to an unknown trailer for the first time. Then going to that 25 mph and giving it a try.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,975
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From: Archdale,N.C.
They're self adjusting brakes but they were out of adjustment. I confirmed that the magnet is getting power (didn't actually check the amperage) by having my wife slide the switch and the magnets held a chisel, yeah pretty scientific I know. But the brakes are adjusted properly now, when you spin the wheel you can barely hear the brushing sound. It still rotates freely but does not free roll. I'm getting ready to do hub seals on the passenger side in a few. We bought the camper new in 2014 but it only has around 7000 miles on it.
And the checking I'm doing is by using the slider in the driveway and not the peddle.
Even after the drivers side adjustment it made no difference and won't lock the wheels up.
And the checking I'm doing is by using the slider in the driveway and not the peddle.
Even after the drivers side adjustment it made no difference and won't lock the wheels up.
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Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Archdale,N.C.
Update :
So upon removing the passenger side one was a little out of adjustment. But the rear passenger side had over adjusted and one of the brake shoes was grooved and broken. The broken part of the shoe hadn't come apart but was broken none the less. I almost had to destroy the assembly in order to remove the hub. So I'm looking for parts but I may have to get my parts together and do it next weekend. What's weird is on our trip from NC to Newport Tn last week I checked the hub temps across all hubs with a laser gun and the bad wheel didn't show as being hot. We didn't have very good brakes.
So upon removing the passenger side one was a little out of adjustment. But the rear passenger side had over adjusted and one of the brake shoes was grooved and broken. The broken part of the shoe hadn't come apart but was broken none the less. I almost had to destroy the assembly in order to remove the hub. So I'm looking for parts but I may have to get my parts together and do it next weekend. What's weird is on our trip from NC to Newport Tn last week I checked the hub temps across all hubs with a laser gun and the bad wheel didn't show as being hot. We didn't have very good brakes.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2011
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The drum run-out will cause over-adjustment. Check the drum, turn, face armature or replace as needed, only .030" can be removed from the armature face. Personally I would choose manual adjustment. Parts are readily available from eTrailer, Eastern Marine and Amazon. It is usually better to buy complete assemblies rather than individual parts. If replacing bearings, get Timkens, not the cheap Chinese that are sold at all of the above.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,975
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From: Archdale,N.C.
Yeah I picked up a complete Lippert brake backing plate assembly and have to wait until tomorrow to pick up a new drum. Never been a fan of turning drums and rotors. Thanks for the help, hopefully I'm on the right track.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,379
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From: Frederick, MD
Hope fully you have found the problem.
Consider running a heavier guage wire from the drivers side to the passenger side since you a breaking the electrical connection anyway.
Getting a completed brake with backing plate is always the best way to go.
The drums I would never turn either.
Consider running a heavier guage wire from the drivers side to the passenger side since you a breaking the electrical connection anyway.
Getting a completed brake with backing plate is always the best way to go.
The drums I would never turn either.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,975
Likes: 19
From: Archdale,N.C.
Hope fully you have found the problem.
Consider running a heavier guage wire from the drivers side to the passenger side since you a breaking the electrical connection anyway.
Getting a completed brake with backing plate is always the best way to go.
The drums I would never turn either.
Consider running a heavier guage wire from the drivers side to the passenger side since you a breaking the electrical connection anyway.
Getting a completed brake with backing plate is always the best way to go.
The drums I would never turn either.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,379
Likes: 1,863
From: Frederick, MD
One thing I have found out once together, is the brakes will still suck at first. Takes a few applications to get them dialed in to where the slider will hold both truck and trailer.