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Less than 150 mi on rear tank
Sitting in Nellis Air Foce Base RV park with rear tank in 91 F250 7.3 putting out rust. I've swapped out a 2nd pump (lucky I had a spare) The bowl was fully clogged after coming up from Phoenix. We're headed to Oregon slowly, passing thru Carson City. Need to locate someone to replace tank. Thanks for having a great site and so many helping members.
When I pulled our 1986 dual tanks to replace two with one 38 gal rear tank, both turned out to be failing at the seams. So if one is going, the other is suspect. I suggest that you move the spare up into the bed, and put a 38gal in the rear. Sometime around/before 1991 dual tanks have a less-reliable dual tank system for which certain key parts are discontinued. If yours is the newer system, a bigger rear tank is still a plus. Check out this post https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...2-96-97hd.html
There are good decent folks still in California but stay the heck away from the cities.
so the front tank is running clean on the new bowl? if so, I'd run one tank until I could get somewhere I trusted to do the work,
as a quick fix since you don't have people to trust I wonder if you might put an auxiliary tank in the bed with a fuel pump and fix it right when you get someplace you can trust,
so the front tank is running clean on the new bowl? if so, I'd run one tank until I could get somewhere I trusted to do the work,
as a quick fix since you don't have people to trust I wonder if you might put an auxiliary tank in the bed with a fuel pump and fix it right when you get someplace you can trust,
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Darn good ideas. Or, put a gravity tank in the bed and keep it, draining into your front tank. There are some disguised as a toolbox. I have one in my 2004. No fill cap visible until you open the lockable lid.
Then you could just remove or forget your rusty rear tank. And defeat the dual tank switch system before it breaks down too.
Unfortunately my bed is filled with a lance camper and I'm headed to Reno. I found a shop along the way and am headed there this AM to replace the tank. I tried sucking down tank but at 1/4 it just didn't like the contents. Felt like nothing good! Thanks again for the inputs
The galvanized coating was going and the tank was replaced. Now when the tank is down at 1/4 tank the motor stumbles. I'm in northern California by lava beds and after another fill of suspect tank will see what happens to front tank below that critical level. I pulled over and it died. Switched tank's and reprimmed with valve. Somehow at that level am I sucking air? I was going down hill. Delema continues.
It's super common over time for the pickup on the sending unit to fall apart and then it won't suck below 1/4 tank
x2
You can remove the shower head from the fuel sending unit if it hasn't already fallen off. Then install a length of diesel rated rubber hose with a hose clamp to the fuel sending unit. Check it out!
We own three OBS and earlier pickups. A total of six fuel tanks. Of those, four have lost their fuel pickup part way down. You're lucky it makes it to 1/4 tank. On my 1989 it was half tank.
Again, I suggest that you replace the rear tank with a 38 gallon tank, reasonably priced. When your fuel switch system fails, you can junk it.
After Covid and 2 cycles of “C” I got back in my 91 F250 Banks turbo (no waste gate), e-pump. This started out as see post #1 on my last outing, now, no start. Fuel to pump, yes, but nothing when repeated cranking with loosened injector tops.
The FSS didn’t sound to healthy cycling the connector, so I pulled the cover and I discovered what appeared to be a Petri dish run amuck! The slide bar was frozen closed, nothing moved. I started with Brake clean, then penetrating spray following with a week of transmission fluid soak. With everything freed up I installed a new FSS
Couldn’t find much, but did over at here. “Diesel bug is a general term for a host of fungi, bacteria and yeasts ready and willing to inhabit your tank, whether by transfer from infected fuel or by colonization from airborne spores. Around 147 species have been identified living in infected non-bio diesel fuel, but the new fuels bring a whole host of new organisms to join the party – over 1,400 at the last count”
I shocked both tanks with BioKleen.
How long has this been going on? I purchased this vehicle in 1991…😊 and have never open the cover. The big question is, what is this? And what the best magic formula to rid my vehicle of this plague. I did change my rear tank back in 2019, so the front is suspect. Killem has been recommended somewhere on this site. Jammed open working
everything I googled about diesel algae comes up as a black sludge,
I wonder if this wasn't part of the "rust" issue that made it past the filter ??
When my fuel pickups broke off and disintegrated in the tank I had a white powder/flake in the bottom of my filter bowl, (at the time I thought someone might have tried to sabotage me and put something in the tank)
a few years later when I put a new shower head on and was sucking off the bottom of the tank after 8 years, I got a filter full of rust,
It lives !!
In retrospect, 2 years sitting in storage has allowed one or more of the 1400 variants of bugs (fungi, bacteria and yeasts)to be allowed to grow in the fuel system and stick the upper linkage in the "off" or deenergized position. Checking the main solenoid did make noise, but it was not crisp sounding.
Cleaning out the top (see thread #12) freed up the mechanism and after burping the system it started right up, with a few minutes of surging. Started up with zero glow plugs. Of course its 90 degrees here this morning.
I still probably have something growing in my front tank. Will try more shocking treatments and home testing for growth, before replacing 33 year old tank..
Use it and save yourself grief. I wonder how many other "no starts" have this same symptom and fix??
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